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The Official Lian Li Owner's Showcase Thread - Page 252

post #2511 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by THUMPer1 View Post

The V33WX looks so tempting. Must, not, buy..........

You must! Some guy on the internet said so wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by THUMPer1 View Post

Without giving it much thought, some sort of metal band or border around the vent so the magnetic vents stick. Find some way of adhering the metal to the aluminum.
Or use some sort pin or nipple that will allow you to snap a filter onto it. You may have to design a new filter though so that it will snap into place. Attach either with a tack weld. Might increase price but I wouldn't think by much. That's one of the reasons I haven't bought the V33 because I need filters. smile.gif

On another note: I'm currently running the PC-A61WX and the front vents on the side are super restrictive to the airflow with the vents installed. My 9F had awesome cooling because the front was unobstructed. I sent a message to someone on Facebook about this, not really a complaint more of a "this kinda sucks" thought.

Pin or nipples would make it thicker, and might interfere with something close to it. But metal strip glued on might...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedici View Post

Some strips of steel would do. Just put four of them in the corners of each vent.

You wouldn't even need to tack-weld them. Lian Li could just use that double sided adhesive they use on their cable ties. Seriously. Have you tried taking one of those things off? Those things will hold a car upside down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by THUMPer1 View Post

Yep 4 corners would work. I'm curious why they didn't think of that. Or they did but something stopped them.

4 corners would not work. It would leave a gap.

But, the intake IS filtered, are the outlet filters needed?

PS. NICE build ^ The o series is hard to take great pictures of, and you did very well.
 
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Folding for coinz
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post #2512 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by KipH View Post

Pin or nipples would make it thicker, and might interfere with something close to it. But metal strip glued on might...

4 corners would not work. It would leave a gap.

But, the intake IS filtered, are the outlet filters needed?

I can see the pins not working, and not really flowing with the case design. A glue would be nice, since it looks like the side mesh is already glued on. My thought process on the side vents is there will still be air pulled through them by the rear fans, thus getting some dust in. I've watched and read a few reviews where the reviewer mentioned that the side not being filtered is kind of a bummer.

And when you say Outlet filters, I assume you are referring to the ones on the side of the V33 not the rear fan outlet. haha
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post #2513 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by KipH View Post

4 corners would not work. It would leave a gap.

But, the intake IS filtered, are the outlet filters needed?

PS. NICE build ^ The o series is hard to take great pictures of, and you did very well.

Couldn't the filter frames be stepped during molding to fill the gap?
post #2514 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by sexpot View Post

I like how your PSU is mounted on the bottom, looks very OEM that way too. Did you have to drill new mount points?
I ordered another PCIe Extender and it came in today, they use a different type of ribbon cable now. It's more heavy duty that's for sure.



Any update on the build? What have you gotten done to it.
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post #2515 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by FXformat View Post

I didn't upgrade to another case, i purchased an O6S and built another one..my O5S will serve as a backup rig if i decide to mod the O6S with mods that might take several days like powdercoating the case or something...the reason for the O6S was because someone sold it to me for $150 and another individual sold their Skylake parts for cheap as well, so i jumped on it.






As for your question on how i did my hardlines, the hardest line to do was the line that goes back to the reservoir. Are you planning on cooling the GPU as well? If so i suggest getting a GPU Waterblock that has the port on top like the Hydro Copper, because you don't have room to do lines with the port on the front and back. I pretty much eyed everything with the top on, you can't do this with the top off as you need to have an idea where the fittings are. Eye it, bend pipes that are a little long, and then trim as necessary.

ordered the swiftech h220x as I think it will be better for me than the h220

I could use my motherboard EK block with it or decide not to, I also like the fact that it has a visible res thumb.gif
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post #2516 of 4040
Really didn't think about disassembly or reassembly when I built this case. Removing and reinstalling the pump took no less than 2 hours. What a nightmare. Really didn't think my Skylake upgrade through. The upgrade is going to end up taking like 30 hours redface.gif. All that is left is the hard part of redoing the 8-pin EPS and bending a could of acrylic runs.





A before pic to get an idea how it needs to look again.
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post #2517 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radox-0 View Post

Both push or pull work fine from my testing in this case. I settled on pull in the end as I quiet like seeing the solid line of the radiator.

@fxformat, nice. Was going to suggest you flipped your radiator that way around. Had issues myself when the radiator was the original way you had it but good to see it worked out. thumb.gif



Hey Radox, my new tubing should here tomorrow, i'm changing my setup to 16mm Acrylic as opposed to the 12mm that i'm using now. Quick question, you said you did your fan config to pull, did it vary much in terms of temps? I'm affraid if i do the pull config, i'm draw hot air from inside the case up through the rad and heatsoak it. I'd much rather do the pull set up as the lines of the radiator looks great! Also, it'd be cleaner for me to access the inlet and outlet port. I'm googling push/pull and i'm just getting a ton of different information...
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post #2518 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by FXformat View Post

Hey Radox, my new tubing should here tomorrow, i'm changing my setup to 16mm Acrylic as opposed to the 12mm that i'm using now. Quick question, you said you did your fan config to pull, did it vary much in terms of temps? I'm affraid if i do the pull config, i'm draw hot air from inside the case up through the rad and heatsoak it. I'd much rather do the pull set up as the lines of the radiator looks great! Also, it'd be cleaner for me to access the inlet and outlet port. I'm googling push/pull and i'm just getting a ton of different information...

Hey there, nice look forward to it!

In regards to temp, played around with it for a few days, but did not really notice any major difference to be honest, I recorded 2 degree difference on the GPU and 3 on the CPU, but that could be within margin of error to be honest and simply be down to the ambient at the time of testing so was happy to go for pull myself. I would imagine in pull for yourself the difference would be on the order of a few degrees also, if that.
     
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post #2519 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radox-0 View Post

Hey there, nice look forward to it!

In regards to temp, played around with it for a few days, but did not really notice any major difference to be honest, I recorded 2 degree difference on the GPU and 3 on the CPU, but that could be within margin of error to be honest and simply be down to the ambient at the time of testing so was happy to go for pull myself. I would imagine in pull for yourself the difference would be on the order of a few degrees also, if that.


Oh good, then pull it is...do you have the rear fan as well? I'm doing that in push, pushing air into case and having the rad fans pull air out...the only thing that concerns me now is the GPU is right next to my PSU, and the 950 M.2 puts off tremendous heat with no fans nearby. It's like a Dutch oven under there. I might drill holes on the bottom of the case and mount a 120mm if temps gets higher than i expect.

My current temps at this set up is 50C max for CPU and 49C max for GPU under max stress.
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post #2520 of 4040
Quote:
Originally Posted by FXformat View Post

Oh good, then pull it is...do you have the rear fan as well? I'm doing that in push, pushing air into case and having the rad fans pull air out...the only thing that concerns me now is the GPU is right next to my PSU, and the 950 M.2 puts off tremendous heat with no fans nearby. It's like a Dutch oven under there. I might drill holes on the bottom of the case and mount a 120mm if temps gets higher than i expect.

My current temps at this set up is 50C max for CPU and 49C max for GPU under max stress.

Yep I do indeed. Use a 140mm bequiet silent wings 2 fan. Positioned so it brings in cool air and pointed up so said cool air goes straight through the radiator and seems to work well

Ah yes a 950 may get warm. But yeah I would check temps first. It should be okay I would imagine as long as it's getting some air.
     
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