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post #15811 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by thlnk3r View Post
BlackOmega, man that thing is really showing it's colors. Those idle temps are beautiful. That full load temperature is not to shabby as well

Awesome!
MY 3800x2 idles @ 26 in the same 25.8*C room.

I'm gonna start cranking her up and see what happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
The only true downside to the Xiggy is that when you buy it, besides a new fan, you really won't get better temps.

A few of them could be lapped and might get something better out of them. But they all pretty much come in their prime out of the box.
Yeah, the base is perfectly flat. I couldn't get a piece of paper to go under a flat edge. The only thing that I could see doing to mine is smoothing it. There's a lot of pretty rough machine marks in it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thlnk3r View Post
Tator, interesting points. If one were to lap one of these Xiggy's how much can actually be lapped before one of the heatpipes becomes damaged? I'd assume not very much could be lapped...
I've read a little about it and most people say dont start with anything lower then 600 grit paper.

EDIT: BRB gonna run er up to 2900 then 3k.

Update: 2903MHz @ 1.344v, idle: 30/33*C. 1.36v loaded: 55/59*C.
Edited by BlackOmega - 5/29/09 at 12:44am
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post #15812 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
EDIT: BRB gonna run er up to 2900 then 3k.

Update: 2903MHz @ 1.344v, idle: 30/33*C. 1.36v loaded: 55/59*C.
BlackOmega, is this the Opteron 180 that you're overclocking? It's always nice to see the Vcore still at stock after doing a 500Mhz overclock

Good luck
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post #15813 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by thlnk3r View Post
Tator, interesting points. If one were to lap one of these Xiggy's how much can actually be lapped before one of the heatpipes becomes damaged? I'd assume not very much could be lapped...
I was able to take a smidge off the bottom of my S1283, but the pipes are damn flat before you get them. And so is the aluminum piece covering the pipes.

The best things you can do for the cooler are buy a retention bracket (if you have an intel setup) & a new fan. The Scythe Gentle Typhoon's & S-Flex series are best for this cooler.
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post #15814 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by thlnk3r View Post
BlackOmega, is this the Opteron 180 that you're overclocking? It's always nice to see the Vcore still at stock after doing a 500Mhz overclock

Good luck
Yes sir its the 180. It was actually kind of surprising to me that the vcore actually goes up once its loaded because I keep reading about vdroop.

Unfortunately anything over ~2950 and I need to up the vcore considerably to squeeze every last little bit out of it.

I ran S&M at my current settings and it passed with flying colors as I knew it would.


Tator, I was going to say yesterday but forgot, the fan that comes with the Dark knight is actually pretty good, 89 CFM @ 2000 RPM. Which is what I have it running at. I was thinking of attaching my antec on the other side for a push pull, but I think it would be somewhat ineffective as its rated at 10CFM less. ATM, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I think I might decapitate my 180 pretty soon. Then I can run a much higher 24/7 OC, quite possibly 3.1.
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post #15815 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
Tator, I was going to say yesterday but forgot, the fan that comes with the Dark knight is actually pretty good, 89 CFM @ 2000 RPM. Which is what I have it running at. I was thinking of attaching my antec on the other side for a push pull, but I think it would be somewhat ineffective as its rated at 10CFM less. ATM, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I think I might decapitate my 180 pretty soon. Then I can run a much higher 24/7 OC, quite possibly 3.1.
I looked into Push/Pull xiggy awhile back. Its a no go for any more performance.

Even on a 140watt 9950BE it didn't make a difference (besides in the decimal range)

Also, its a good idea to match anything your P/P config. Otherwise one fan will dominate the other, and inevitably cause it to break.

Also, final also for that mater , the Xiggy's fan has a good CFM/Noise ratio, but the GT/SFlex have better static pressure. Which can cause about a 1*C difference in this case. On things like RAD's or coolers with very tight fin density, its another story, but the Xigmatek's fin density is not that of the Noctua U12P or T.R.U.E.
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post #15816 of 28733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
Yes sir its the 180. It was actually kind of surprising to me that the vcore actually goes up once its loaded because I keep reading about vdroop.

Unfortunately anything over ~2950 and I need to up the vcore considerably to squeeze every last little bit out of it.

I ran S&M at my current settings and it passed with flying colors as I knew it would.


Tator, I was going to say yesterday but forgot, the fan that comes with the Dark knight is actually pretty good, 89 CFM @ 2000 RPM. Which is what I have it running at. I was thinking of attaching my antec on the other side for a push pull, but I think it would be somewhat ineffective as its rated at 10CFM less. ATM, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I think I might decapitate my 180 pretty soon. Then I can run a much higher 24/7 OC, quite possibly 3.1.
BlackOmega, it's NOT a good idea to run a heatpipe direct-touch heatsink (like any Xiggy) on a topless chip. Why? Because the core die is such a small surface in the middle of the CPU, you'll only be using half (actually less than half) of the heatpipes on the Xigmatek.

It's easy to see what I'm talking about. Look at any picture of a naked chip (I've posted my fair share of these in the thread ), then look at the bottom of any HDT heatsink. The innermost heatpipes would be the only ones touching the core die, but there would also be parts of the heatsink's base that isn't a heatpipe in contact with the core die. This reduces the capacity to cool the naked die significantly (probably to complete ineffectiveness, in my opinion).

I almost ran a naked chip with an Xiggy, but when I understood what I was looking at I immediately didn't go through with it. That's also why my Xigmatek is now pio's property.
    
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post #15817 of 28733
Joe, while this is correct, you can also re-attach your IHS if you still have it.

You just need something that is nonconductive to do so. I used MX-2 TIM to re-attach the IHS to my Skt 939 3500+. While I can say it's not the best you can do (some industrial compounds can be used, but they are harder to come by) it sure did work out well.

And lapping an IHS with no CPU attached is much easier
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post #15818 of 28733
Good point Joe. Hmm.. do you think lapping it would make a difference? Because as it sits the temps are just too high to get it stable @ anything over 29xx MHz.

Ok since I cant really make a poll on here, I'll just ask: What is the highest core temp allowable at stock 1.35v? I personally dont like taking it over 65*C, but last time I was running S&M I noticed that while my coretemps were ~65*C, the IHS temp is 50*C.

I swear the more I know the more confused I get sometimes.

EDIT: Tator, you can always use RTV silicone gasket maker to reattach it the IHS.
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post #15819 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post

EDIT: Tator, you can always use RTV silicone gasket maker to reattach it the IHS.
I know, but it's not as cheap or easy to use as MX-2 TIM.

Lapping the IHS could make a little boost in performance. But you could also buy the Thermalright AM2 bolt through kit.

Though, I would assume from most of my experience with the cooler (Q8400, E8400, 9550 Phenom, 9950 Black Edition, 7750 Black Edition, & x2 4000+ Windsor) that most of the fancier methods of using the cooler don't give a performance boost if any at all.

I've used the bolt through, new fans, & lapping. After all of it, I was down almost 2*C (1.8-2*C as it was in flux with digital thermometer)

Though, I haven't tried doing all the fancy stuff to my 7750BE, or 4000+, but it was the same across the board between E84, Q84, 9550, & 9950.
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post #15820 of 28733
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post

Ok since I cant really make a poll on here, I'll just ask: What is the highest core temp allowable at stock 1.35v? I personally dont like taking it over 65*C, but last time I was running S&M I noticed that while my coretemps were ~65*C, the IHS temp is 50*C.

I swear the more I know the more confused I get sometimes.

EDIT: Tator, you can always use RTV silicone gasket maker to reattach it the IHS.
I've done this before to a San Diego I had that was running hot all the time, then realized the cooler I had woudn't work with it.
Used Black Form-A-Gasket to redo the seal after using AS5 on the inside and it did help but still ran hot.
I also noted when I removed the top, the factory TIM wasn't making a good contact pattern with the lid and believe that was the main reason for the temp problems it had. Temps were better afterwards but the chip still wanted to run warm compared to the other chips like it I had.

You're hitting 65c at 1.35v? Something is wrong there - Gotta be. For the record, I never like seeing my chips go over 50c for any reason. Thats what my 165 does but after trying it with my watercooling setup, temps went down dramatically.
I was glad to see that!
Edited by Kryton - 5/29/09 at 7:31pm
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