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post #21891 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by blitz6804 View Post
Remember, that takes about 50-100 hours to settle in, 200 hours to cure fully.
I'll probably never buy it again. What do you use blitz?

@ BO....if you look at the pictures you'll see what I mean about the grooves...and they're not really that small. I can easily catch my fingernail in them. I will follow your instructions though because what you are saying sounds very logical and reasonable. GTG watch the youtube link, thanks.
Edited by ny_driver - 1/22/10 at 8:34pm
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post #21892 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_driver View Post
I'll probably never buy it again.
AS5 is good paste, but it's getting old. There are considerably better TIM's out there. IC Diamond 7, OCZ freeze, MX-2, MX-3 and there are several Shin etsu TIM's that are also very good.

I was part of the testing for IC diamond 7. THey sent me a tube for free and asked me to apply it to my rigs. On both of my rigs at the time (both 939's) I saw a 3C idle temp drop and a 7C load temp drop over cured AS5. That was on my unlapped Opty 180 and my delidded 3500+. ICD7 is awesome stuff IMO.

OCZ freeze while being better than AS5 was not as good as ICD7. My results were somewhat atypical as most people only saw a 3C temp drop over the most commonly used TIMs'.
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post #21893 of 28692
I have an old MSI neo 8F motherboard with a 3000+ and a gig of ram on it. It was pulled from a rig that was having problems, but i never got a chance to diagnose what was wrong. I would like to see if i could find what is wrong, but i dont have a spare case around , and i dont want to tear apart one of my other rigs to try to get this thing going.
I was wondering, in the absence of a power switch, can you get it to power up by puting a jumper on the power switch terminals on the motherboard?
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post #21894 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
AS5 is good paste, but it's getting old. There are considerably better TIM's out there. IC Diamond 7, OCZ freeze, MX-2, MX-3 and there are several Shin etsu TIM's that are also very good.

I was part of the testing for IC diamond 7. THey sent me a tube for free and asked me to apply it to my rigs. On both of my rigs at the time (both 939's) I saw a 3C idle temp drop and a 7C load temp drop over cured AS5. That was on my unlapped Opty 180 and my delidded 3500+. ICD7 is awesome stuff IMO.

OCZ freeze while being better than AS5 was not as good as ICD7. My results were somewhat atypical as most people only saw a 3C temp drop over the most commonly used TIMs'.
Thanks for the info.
I see many videos of people spreading the compound with rubber glove to get it very this....could definitely get it much thinner than I did with credit card. What do you think about that? You see I think I want it much thinner(now that it's lapped) than I see them getting it with any of their methods.
Edited by ny_driver - 1/22/10 at 9:11pm
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post #21895 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by cssorkinman View Post
I have an old MSI neo 8F motherboard with a 3000+ and a gig of ram on it. It was pulled from a rig that was having problems, but i never got a chance to diagnose what was wrong. I would like to see if i could find what is wrong, but i dont have a spare case around , and i dont want to tear apart one of my other rigs to try to get this thing going.
I was wondering, in the absence of a power switch, can you get it to power up by puting a jumper on the power switch terminals on the motherboard?
touch the two pins for a second with a screwdriver or something to start it and then hold it on the 2 pins for about 5 seconds to shut it off.
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post #21896 of 28692
Thanks NYdriver , i'll give it a try.
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post #21897 of 28692
ny_driver: I used Arctic Silver 5 until a few months ago. At that time I switched to OCZ Freeze Extreme and saw a 1º C idle / 2º C load improvement from AS5.
     
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post #21898 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
AS5 is good paste, but it's getting old. There are considerably better TIM's out there. IC Diamond 7, OCZ freeze, MX-2, MX-3 and there are several Shin etsu TIM's that are also very good.

I was part of the testing for IC diamond 7. THey sent me a tube for free and asked me to apply it to my rigs. On both of my rigs at the time (both 939's) I saw a 3C idle temp drop and a 7C load temp drop over cured AS5. That was on my unlapped Opty 180 and my delidded 3500+. ICD7 is awesome stuff IMO.

OCZ freeze while being better than AS5 was not as good as ICD7. My results were somewhat atypical as most people only saw a 3C temp drop over the most commonly used TIMs'.
I know a guy that swears by ICD7. Been wanting to try it and perhaps the next time I need some TIM, I'll get a few tubes.
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post #21899 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny_driver View Post
Thanks for the info.
I see many videos of people spreading the compound with rubber glove to get it very this....could definitely get it much thinner than I did with credit card. What do you think about that?
Don't waste your time bud. Just use the pea method and you should be all set.

SO you know, if you spread it thinner, the TIM will most likely dry out before you're able to get the heat sink mounted. And therefore making temps even worse.

Or you might want to try putting 1 smaller than pea size dot on the 2 pipes in the center. I usually lay my rig down on it's side to work on this type of stuff. Makes it easier to mount the heatsink and other various components.

Makes me wonder if people actually work on their rigs standing up....


EDIT:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryton View Post
I know a guy that swears by ICD7. Been wanting to try it and perhaps the next time I need some TIM, I'll get a few tubes.
Dude it is awesome stuff, I was so sad when I ran out The tube they sent me actually lasted quite a while.

A couple of things you should know about it:
  • 1. It is EXTREMELY thick. I used to set my tube in a glass of almost boiling water for ~5 minutes so it would spread easier.
  • 2. When putting your heatsink on, it is recommended to push down rather hard on the heat sink to ensure that it spreads evenly.
  • 3. It makes for one hell of a polish for after lapping, works really well. Be careful with stock heatsinks as it will polish out the laser etched steppings and such. Did it on my opty 180, it's actually somewhat difficult to read the numbers off of it. You have to angle it just right so you catch a reflection of a bulb to see it.

All in all really good stuff.
Edited by BlackOmega - 1/22/10 at 9:19pm
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post #21900 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
Don't waste your time bud. Just use the pea method and you should be all set.

SO you know, if you spread it thinner, the TIM will most likely dry out before you're able to get the heat sink mounted. And therefore making temps even worse.

Or you might want to try putting 1 smaller than pea size dot on the 2 pipes in the center. I usually lay my rig down on it's side to work on this type of stuff. Makes it easier to mount the heatsink and other various components.

Makes me wonder if people actually work on their rigs standing up....

EDIT:



Dude it is awesome stuff, I was so sad when I ran out The tube they sent me actually lasted quite a while.

A couple of things you should know about it:
  • 1. It is EXTREMELY thick. I used to set my tube in a glass of almost boiling water for ~5 minutes so it would spread easier.
  • 2. When putting your heatsink on, it is recommended to push down rather hard on the heat sink to ensure that it spreads evenly.
  • 3. It makes for one hell of a polish for after lapping, works really well. Be careful with stock heatsinks as it will polish out the laser etched steppings and such. Did it on my opty 180, it's actually somewhat difficult to read the numbers off of it. You have to angle it just right so you catch a reflection of a bulb to see it.

All in all really good stuff.
Nice tips and I'll try some. Maybe with that stuff I can get some nice cool temps going for obvious reasons.
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