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post #22001 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
That's a nice build Pio, thanks for that. I'll definitely look you up when I need to build one. Gotta save mah pennies for that X58 SLI.

Man I've really been wanting to get my hands on one of those single cores. $32 is insane!

What cpu are we talking about here

I keep getting a cpu-z validation error code 6, any ideas
Edited by playah - 1/27/10 at 9:00am
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post #22002 of 28697
The Sempron Sargas is $32. If I remember right, it is 2.7 GHz stock, and supposedly, a lot of them can be unlocked into dual cores.
     
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post #22003 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by eternalenergy311 View Post
So I finally ordered some decent memory(hopefully), and it should be here Friday. I went with the ddr500 mushkin, 2 gigs for now. Any tips before I start whats hopefully a sucessful additional OC on this rig would be great. Especially maybe some secrets from Pio or Kryton, seeing how those guys seem to post some pretty incredible numbers. One thing that has always concerned me with my rig is this; No matter what I do I cannot seem to get an OC higher than around 2.4ghz when I use a multi less than 10x. I have no idea why, I guess I figured it was the cheap kingston memory but, I have even tried with my divider at 200mhz so that should not have been an issue. Any thoughts? I ask only because it seems that I have read a lot of posts realting to the theory of lower multi= better OC. And, I have seen many validations that suggest the same. I know my stepping is fair, the memory should not be a concern in the very near future, and my cooling is adequate(for running air). Anyways, I am sure to post my results by Friday night, looking forward to the commentary.
If talking about your divider being at a true 200MHz, that puts your RAM at a 1:1 ratio with the CPU. Whatever your bus speed is would also be your RAM speed too. Any time you see the word "Value" related to RAM, it's basic RAM and in most cases isn't good at all for OC'ing.
Those new sticks you ordered will help things along but for better speeds, I'd try a 133MHz divider and see how far you can take it along with some looser timings such as CAS 2.5 instead of CAS 2 for example. Naturally with a lower CPU multiplier you won't get as high of a clockspeed with the same bus speed settings.
It's a matter of give and take related to settings.
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post #22004 of 28697
I keep getting a cpu-z validation error code 6, any ideas

Been running dual prime for about 8hrs now fine, nice temps both cores around 50c

Ran OCCT 2.0 no probs, Memtest clean
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post #22005 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
I know this is a little off topic. But BlackOmega and I were talking about HTPC builds on steam here a few minutes ago. And I figured I'd share the list with you guys. Best bang per buck HTPC build I could come up with (obviously some parts could be changed...but for the most part, its solid).
I built an HTPC rig this summer based off of the full-ATX version of that mobo. Very smooth build. I went with no tuner, an Athlon X2 II, and a cheap card reader that I couldn't get to read my microSD card.

It looks solid to me!
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post #22006 of 28697
Trying to get my Dfi Lanparty NF4 Dr Sli UT to work. I've tried the 24 hr CMOS jump + bios battery removal and still I cant even get windows install to work. All the files get copied and I restart the computer but it starts booting of the hard drive and comes up with "error loading operating system."

I read this thread over here about the same issue http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....rty+NF4+Expert

I havent flashed the bios yet. Another big issue is that the board for some reason cannot reset itself. For example after settings all the bios settings and selecting SAVE and EXIT the board just doesnt restart. I have to hit the reset switch on the mobo to get it to restart.

IDeas?
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post #22007 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hueristic View Post
Well, I got the new expert up and running. I can't get a stable boot useing the yellow slots. Any recommendations?

I'm running a burn-in right now on a mild 400X5 stock voltage folding for awhile. Maybe till after the foldathon.
Maybe a different set of ram or bios upgrade/downgrade will provide the Yellow slot support.

How's the 400x5 working out for you?
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post #22008 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryton View Post
If talking about your divider being at a true 200MHz, that puts your RAM at a 1:1 ratio with the CPU. Whatever your bus speed is would also be your RAM speed too. Any time you see the word "Value" related to RAM, it's basic RAM and in most cases isn't good at all for OC'ing.
Those new sticks you ordered will help things along but for better speeds, I'd try a 133MHz divider and see how far you can take it along with some looser timings such as CAS 2.5 instead of CAS 2 for example. Naturally with a lower CPU multiplier you won't get as high of a clockspeed with the same bus speed settings.
It's a matter of give and take related to settings.
Sorry Kryton, I wrote that wrong. I meant to say a DDR 200 divider in Bios, not 200mhz. Currently, I am at 133(ddr 266) for my divider. This works fine for around that 2.8ghz OC range(cpuid says 185 I think, and I have my timings cranked down to 2.5-3-3-5-2T, the stock was 3-3-3-8), but I feel I am maxing ot the memory, even with only 2 gigs running now. BTW, I have been running 2 gigs instead of four now for like 3 weeks on win7 64, and have not noticed any kind of performance loss. Maybe if I play something like Crysis but, other than that I am not sure the I need much more. Thats why I only orderd 2 gigs of the Mushkin mem to start with. I will try some higher timings with the mushkin sticks at first just to see how high I can get the OC on the cpu. Thanks for your response, I wil post new results hopefully sooner than later.
post #22009 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadSkull View Post
Trying to get my Dfi Lanparty NF4 Dr Sli UT to work. I've tried the 24 hr CMOS jump + bios battery removal and still I cant even get windows install to work. All the files get copied and I restart the computer but it starts booting of the hard drive and comes up with "error loading operating system."

I read this thread over here about the same issue http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....rty+NF4+Expert

I havent flashed the bios yet. Another big issue is that the board for some reason cannot reset itself. For example after settings all the bios settings and selecting SAVE and EXIT the board just doesnt restart. I have to hit the reset switch on the mobo to get it to restart.

IDeas?
sounds like it has an old bios in it and the rebot thing happens ALOT, like just about every board unless the gods shine down on you, perhaps your install media is currupt?
post #22010 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hueristic View Post
One step at a time. If you find a short we will fix that first and if you find a open we will address that second. For a short you will just have to clean around the pin that is being shorted (It will be copper that you smooshed(technically speaking ) onto the back side of a pin. so you can just clear the connection with a pin or exacto blade. For a open you will have to tin the area to repair the connection. That will take a steady hand and possibly a few tries as solder balls up larger than the area you will be working on. that is why you will only be tinning as opposed to soldering. Tinning is just a light coat of solder. You should do it to your iron before using it as a matter of
Your instructions are very clear and I guess I am as ready as I'm going to be......except I didn't pull the 180 yet, but I'm ready.
I did a little testing on the 170, and I began to wonder a couple of things ....do I need to test each pin 938 times and document the results? And do I need to do all that testing on the good chip first? And the other thing is how am I supposed to see to fix a short or an open? Hope to hear back from you soon Hueristic. Thanks.
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