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post #25591 of 28720
Thanks pio! On a 939 related note, I'm thinking of trying my hand at delidding one of my surplus single cores. I still use a latch down bracket. Will I need to mod it at all to make up the difference in height without a lid? If so, how would I go about doing so? Also would I need to lap my HS that I use with a delidded CPU? Thanks!
 
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post #25592 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

If you guys see that type of posting in here again please report it. smile.gif we don't allow return of the banned. wink.gif

Did I miss something?
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post #25593 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by toughacton View Post

Thanks pio! On a 939 related note, I'm thinking of trying my hand at delidding one of my surplus single cores. I still use a latch down bracket. Will I need to mod it at all to make up the difference in height without a lid? If so, how would I go about doing so? Also would I need to lap my HS that I use with a delidded CPU? Thanks!

You need to get you hands on a cheap 212+ or similar type HS and do the "939 mod". I'll post pics if you're interested. This works on lidded or de-lidded CPU's.
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post #25594 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

If you guys see that type of posting in here again please report it. smile.gif we don't allow return of the banned. wink.gif

I thought we were only supposed to report spam, but when I finally got fed up with it I noticed there was an option to report for other stuff as well.
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post #25595 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Scott View Post

Somebody say 939 contest? I'll play. biggrin.gif

I'm in as well if anything is going down guys.
Let me know..... wink.gif
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post #25596 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Scott View Post

You need to get you hands on a cheap 212+ or similar type HS and do the "939 mod". I'll post pics if you're interested. This works on lidded or de-lidded CPU's.

ooo yes please smile.gif Also I'm trying to get a "dead" SLI-DR board working. I've got 4 lights that don't go away like my working board. When I got it, it looked like the socket was dirty with some TIM, so I cleaned it off, but I never could get it to post. Ive only got one stick of working memory in the far orange slot, a working cpu, and I've reset cmos a bunch. Only have a vid card and essentials hooked up. Any hints? Is there any hard cmos reset procedure for this board?
 
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post #25597 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by toughacton View Post

ooo yes please smile.gif Also I'm trying to get a "dead" SLI-DR board working. I've got 4 lights that don't go away like my working board. When I got it, it looked like the socket was dirty with some TIM, so I cleaned it off, but I never could get it to post. Ive only got one stick of working memory in the far orange slot, a working cpu, and I've reset cmos a bunch. Only have a vid card and essentials hooked up. Any hints? Is there any hard cmos reset procedure for this board?

That looks to be the "4 LED's of death" you've just described but not all is lost yet.
Sometimes a corrupt BIOS could cause this, sometimes it's due to a bad stick of RAM/RAM problem or some other ailment. It's possible to use circuit board cleaner without acetone to hit the CPU socket with for some cleaning but once you do, let it sit overnight to dry out with a small fan on this area to ensure complete drying.

A hard CMOS reset procedure is the same with any board, remove the CMOS battery overnight, reinstall the battery and try it.
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post #25598 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryton View Post

That looks to be the "4 LED's of death" you've just described but not all is lost yet.
Sometimes a corrupt BIOS could cause this, sometimes it's due to a bad stick of RAM/RAM problem or some other ailment. It's possible to use circuit board cleaner without acetone to hit the CPU socket with for some cleaning but once you do, let it sit overnight to dry out with a small fan on this area to ensure complete drying.
A hard CMOS reset procedure is the same with any board, remove the CMOS battery overnight, reinstall the battery and try it.

Thanks, I'll try again sometime to get it going. I did try swapping the bios chip with my working board, but I didn't try for long for fear of messing up my working bios chip. I may try testing the questionable bios chip in my working board and see if its working. If that works then it will eliminate at least one variable. I have a feeling it may just be the socket or some other not easily replaced component (northbridge ect.). I only paid 8 bucks for it, so its not like I'm out much if I can't get it running. smile.gif Plus i got a 3500 winchester and some ocz plats that do work as well as some of the accessories. I think between the 2 boards I have now got all the accessories that would have come with a SLI-DR originally.
 
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post #25599 of 28720
Quote:
Originally Posted by toughacton View Post

ooo yes please smile.gif Also I'm trying to get a "dead" SLI-DR board working. I've got 4 lights that don't go away like my working board. When I got it, it looked like the socket was dirty with some TIM, so I cleaned it off, but I never could get it to post. Ive only got one stick of working memory in the far orange slot, a working cpu, and I've reset cmos a bunch. Only have a vid card and essentials hooked up. Any hints? Is there any hard cmos reset procedure for this board?

Pic of 939 mod for the 212+. Basically, you're using the stock mobo backplate with longer screws threaded in from the bottom and waterblock type hardware to hold the crossbar down. Pics are worth a thousand words. smile.gif



I'll add a pic of it mounted shortly. I'm setting that platform up to bench again before the weekend.

Also, here is the proper hard reset instructions. Follow them exactly. Saved this from the old DFI Street when I was a member there.wink.gif
Quote:
The proper Clear CMOS recovery. Not to be confused with a Normal CMOS Clear.

You can not use a USB keyboard for this procedure. You must use a PS2 keyboard.

You will need your manual to find the jumpers that must be changed.

If you skip or miss any step you must start again since the results will not be valid.
Remove power from the rig by pulling the plug or switching the PSU off.

Move the PC Speaker jumper to the ON position.

Remove the Battery.

Move the CMOS jumper to CLEAR.

Press the Start Button on the case or motherboard to drain the capacitors.

You may leave the board in this condition for as long as it takes to clear the CMOS. If a short 30 second clear or a 15 minute clear doesn't work, try an 8 hour clear.

Plug in a PS2 Keyboard.

Put one stick of RAM in the slot marked DIMM2.

Move the CMOS jumper to Normal.

Replace the Battery.

Press and hold the Insert Key on the Keyboard.

Apply power to the rig by plugging the power in or using the switch on the PSU.

Press the Start Button to power the rig up.

When you hear the BEEP, release the Insert Key and press the Delete Key on the Keyboard.

Once you enter the BIOS set the DATE and TIME then Load Optimized Defaults.

Save and Exit.

Enter the BIOS again and set it up the way you want for your particular rig.

Edited by Mr.Scott - 12/12/12 at 8:53am
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post #25600 of 28720
Well gents its been a great run, but my 939 system has given up the ghost (failed motherboard, been acting up ever since i got it) and i have decided to sell off what's left to make some money. Hopefully alongside the Phenom II quad, board, 8 gigs DDR2, and intel 120GB ssd, i'll have enough to get my main rig off LGA 775 and up to LGA 1366.

I'll still keep the 939 board, as a reminder of my first real rig.
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