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post #3271 of 28692
black is ground usually, red is 12v as far as I know.
not sure what the blue is... maybe leave it out for now?

in other news: The TIM just arrived from TxtmstrJoe with a long (unnecessary) apology letter for it being late. Joe, there was no due date on it, but thank you for the note <3.
I will be reseating my heatsink with it this week(end, probably). Should I relap it first? Its at 600 grit now, and I have some 1500grit that I can use, but I don't really want to skip so far.
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post #3272 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by nategr8ns View Post
black is ground usually, red is 12v as far as I know.
not sure what the blue is... maybe leave it out for now?
Nate, that's correct. Red should be the 12volt. Blue might be for fans sensor on monitoring speed. Just try the red 12volt wire and ground. If it's to fast you could always 7volt or 5volt mod a 4-pin molex to slow down the fan. I'm sure you could mod a 3-pin connector to house the fan wires. It would be easier to show you IRL
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post #3273 of 28692
Well, with the amps that EACH fan will be pulling, I'm going to have to use the 12v lines on the PSU/Molex connector. I don't want to risk blowing up the board, considering I'm looking at 4 fans, at least, for the heatsink.

I know if I do the red & black, it will be full 12 volt speed (damn fast) constantly. i'm not sure if I want to risk testing that last line (the blue one) to the 3 pin header for the CPU fan, because it'll be 8 different RPM readings being sent to that.

I MIGHT see if I can take the POT speed control that is on the existing 120mm fan and wire it to the blue line (wired similar to the existing fan right now, the one being replaced), and control the speed that way.

These are all just ideas right now. The heatsink/fan that I have is the RaidMax Glacier and it does a good job right now. But i want to get something flowing more and see if i can get lower temps, and increase the air blowing across the power transisters as well.
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post #3274 of 28692
Success , finally , uninstalled drivers , ran driver cleaner pro , reinstalled latest drivers ..now using evga precision nice little tool that drove me buggy for alittle while as you can tell from my avitar
    
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post #3275 of 28692
Raziel, you would only be able to use the blue wire from one fan, it won't work with all four fans hooked up to that blue one
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post #3276 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by boonie2 View Post
Success , finally , uninstalled drivers , ran driver cleaner pro , reinstalled latest drivers ..now using evga precision nice little tool that drove me buggy for alittle while as you can tell from my avitar
great! The new Evga precision works pretty darn good don't it? It actually reads the OC correctly.
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post #3277 of 28692
but it doesn't have a stress test. The "test clocks" button or whatever it is only rechecks the drivers (not sure what that does).
I'm currently using Precision and ATITool
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post #3278 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by nategr8ns View Post
but it doesn't have a stress test. The "test clocks" button or whatever it is only rechecks the drivers (not sure what that does).
I'm currently using Precision and ATITool
true,but I'd rather have a program that works properly than one that locks up. At the same OC with the Evga my card runs smooth as silk. I try the same OC with Rivatuner or ATI Tool and it locks up. Not all the time mind you,but enough to be irritating.
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post #3279 of 28692
oh i see...
So the program that overclocks can sometimes cause instabilities? Even after the program is closed?
I learn something new every day.
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post #3280 of 28692
Quote:
Originally Posted by nategr8ns View Post
oh i see...
So the program that overclocks can sometimes cause instabilities? Even after the program is closed?
I learn something new every day.
ATI Tool will set and keep the OC and weather it's open or closed,the Vidcard will hold that OC. Unless of course you set it back to default.
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