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The Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase [Official] - Page 591

post #5901 of 28701
Okay, so I have some issues with the new setup.

With my old motherboard, the location and size of the video card lent itself to exhausting directly outside the case. (I had a fan intake under the card's exhaust, and the fan exhausted outside.) With this motherboard, there was no room to do that, and so, the card right now is exhausting right onto my soundboard.

The end result is that case temps are way up, and it is causing the CPU temps to follow.

The only fix I can think of is to cut another fan hole on the bottom of the case for another 120mm, but I think that would only postpone the issue since another 3850 is eventually going in there. How does everyone else deal with these temperature issues?
     
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post #5902 of 28701
put a fan between the graphics cards and the HDD rack. Remove expansion slot covers and let the fan blow air through there.
the only problem would be that the air would escape around the side of the card. if you can direct the air from the fan through the expansion cards, and not go around the cards (because then the cooler won't be getting the air), you should be good.
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post #5903 of 28701
Thanks Nate; it was a cool-sounding idea.

Unfortunately, it did not work in practice, my temps went up further. Perhaps ducting would be needed to pull it off?

If I could find a way to get rid of the PCI-slot cold cathode light, and am willing to sacrifice two USB ports, I could reinstall my PCI-slot cooler directly under the socket. Anyone know how to rewire the switch elsewhere?
     
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post #5904 of 28701
do you have a piece of cardboard that you can stick between the sound card and video card? That way the air gets to the GPU cooler.
make sure it doesn't put pressure on the sound card.
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post #5905 of 28701
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by boonie2 View Post
Anyone know of a FREE program I can use to transfer ALL my data and VISTA onto my new HDD ??
boonie, before I plunked down for Acronis, DriveImage XML was my backup freeware of choice. Here is , too.

Hope this helps, man.
    
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post #5906 of 28701
@nate
leave the case side off, and put two 120mm fans so that they blow directly on the gfx card and mobo. that is how I keep my gfx and mobo temps down during the summer.
post #5907 of 28701
I was asking Anqt, he was helping me. *Chuckles.*

For now, I am trying my experiment. I pulled the USB header, moved the PCI-slot CCF switch somewhere inside the case, and mounted my PCI-slot cooler. Once Everest boots (I am trying a new method to attempt to delay the boot) I will see if it worked.

EDIT: That seems to have worked.
     
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post #5908 of 28701
Quick update (READ: Wall-of-text warning):

While I had a nice 3DMark06 score, I would occasionally crash the video driver. It does not recover as nice with this video card as with the AGP-variant, and pictures would be distorted until I restarted the PC.

I took a 7 MHz drop on the GPU core (about 50 3DMarks) but now am Real-Time High Dynamic Range Image-Based Lighting stable for 1/2 hour. Unlike the AGP card, which could not do much more than 1300x1100 before it would cause the program to crash (over 100% load) this card can run 1920x1200x32 at 16x Anti-aliasing and Bump maps turned on. Granted, it only does it at 3-5 FPS, it does it all the same. (At 8x AA, you get a "playable" picture, that is, 60+ FPS at that resolution. Nice. Crysis time soon methinks.)

In other news, this motherboard has an "annoying" feature: unplug it, and when you boot next time, most things set to default. Granted, resetting the external clock to 200 MHz is nice if you went to far, resetting to stock without fiddling with the CMOS jumper, but there is another side effect: all the fan throttling, monitoring, and system alarms return to default. PCI-E and RAM settings are unaffected, but it is still annoying.

I discovered this this morning. I needed to fiddle around with some wires to try to improve airflow. When I restarted, I also figured I would drop my GPUC clock as I said above. I dropped it 20 MHz, and upon running 3DMark, found I lost over 2000 3DMarks! *Gasp!* This made me about 1800 3Dmarks BELOW AGP. I started going crazy and then thought to check CPU-Z. Sure enough, I had dropped back to 2200 MHz.

Long story short, I fixed it as above, and now am around 9170. I do not remember, and I did not submit it.

Before I fixed it though, I did some stock of my temperatures both before and after 3DMark. All readings are done at 24º C ambient with the PCI-slot cooler installed between the secondary PCI-E-slot and the Socket:

STOCK (2205 MHz)
Case: 32º C idle, 38º C loaded
Proc1: 27º C idle, 44º C loaded
Proc2: 34º C idle, 47º C loaded

OVERCLOCKED (2801 MHz)
Case: 34º C idle, 38º C loaded
Proc1: 30º C idle, 46º C loaded
Proc2: 36º C idle, 48º C loaded

I would take those temperatures to mean I have some overclocking headway now. Comparing cold-start temperatures, before the GPU has a chance to mess up case temperatures, I would estimate that my lap job has improved idle temperatures by as much as 12º C, and load temperatures as much as 8º C. Pre-lap, on the AGP board, my cooler core ran at 40º C idle. Post-lap, the cooler core ran at 30º C in a warmer case temperature. Pre-lap, 3DMark made CPU temps rise to the mid-upper 50s; now they remain sub-50.

Only thing left to do is OCCT I suppose. Oh, that, and wring some more work out of the processor.

It should also be noted that I am seriously acknowledging now that the GA-K8NSC-939 was holding me back. When set to 1.35 V in the BIOS, it would provide 1.328 ± 0.028 V (quantum = 0.014 V). Cool-n-quiet dropped the multiplier from 11x to 5x and dropped voltage to 1.080 ± 0.008 V (quantum = 0.004 V). Cool-n-quiet worked in XP and Linux, not Vista.

On this board, when set to 1.35 V in the BIOS, it provides 1.380 ± 0.010 V (quantum = 0.010 V). Cool-n-quiet has two settings. The multiplier at 9x drops the voltage to 1.260 ± 0.010 V (quantum = 0.010 V) and the 5x drops the voltage to 1.120 ± 0.010 V (quantum = 0.010 V). In other words, I have a much more stable (and higher) voltage to work with. For those of you keeping score at home, my average load VCore is about 3.91% higher than before, meaning I should be able to keep a higher, S&M-stable, 24/7 configuration. So far, I am running 2801 (versus 2750 previously) with more expected to come.

</WALL_O_TEXT>
     
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post #5909 of 28701
Quote:
Originally Posted by blitz6804 View Post
I was asking Anqt, he was helping me. *Chuckles.*

For now, I am trying my experiment. I pulled the USB header, moved the PCI-slot CCF switch somewhere inside the case, and mounted my PCI-slot cooler. Once Everest boots (I am trying a new method to attempt to delay the boot) I will see if it worked.

EDIT: That seems to have worked.
My bad, sorry blitz... glad you got the temps down. Summer heat really kills
post #5910 of 28701
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anqt31 View Post
My bad, sorry blitz... glad you got the temps down. Summer heat really kills
Not a huge deal in my case. In the summer, my ambient is around 22º C. In the winter, the ambient is around 19º C.

I really do not think a 3º C ambient shift will cause a major issue. The temperature change resulted from the change in video cards. (The PCI-E venting into the case, the AGP venting straight out the back.)
     
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