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post #9201 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by pez View Post
I'm guessing that means I'll be fine?
Just be careful not to let the wires touch any hot surface of the mobo and melt the thin wire insulation.

About the overvoltage setting I'll leave it enabled and monitor the stability of my pc under load and I'll post you guys my results. Messing around with the caps isn't a good idea for me as soon as it needs surgical precision to get them changed myself. It needs a low wattage solder iron and let us not forget we're talking about pcbs made by robots and not humans. You could shortciruit the pcb by just making a welding bigger by 1mm radius.
Edited by MikeV_E36 - 11/25/08 at 10:46am
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post #9202 of 28697
It might not be a bad idea to tape the wires to the case Pez. Then, you need not worry about them coming off the back wall and touching the motherboard. As Mike said, be sure to avoid areas like the PWM, CPU socket, and NB. The rest of the motherboard will likely be cool, but the area under the aforementioned might be a touch warm.
     
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post #9203 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by pez View Post
I'm guessing that means I'll be fine?
YES, Many times you will see me answer with Emoticons as It is easier for me to use the mouse than to get to the keyboard as I am Disabled.
post #9204 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeV_E36 View Post
Just be careful not to let the wires touch any hot surface of the mobo and melt the thin wire insulation.

About the overvoltage setting I'll leave it enabled and monitor the stability of my pc under load and I'll post you guys my results. Messing around with the caps isn't a good idea for me as soon as it needs surgical precision to get them changed myself. It needs a low wattage solder iron and let us not forget we're talking about pcbs made by robots and not humans. You could shortciruit the pcb by just making a welding bigger by 1mm radius.
It's really not hard. You don't really need a low wattage iron. Just don't hold it on there all day. To remove a cap just hit one side with the iron on the back of the PCB and press on the opposite side of the cap on the top to tilt it away from the leg you are desoldering. it will move the leg up then. Then you do the opposite on the other side of the cap and repeat until the cap comes off. I have my 15 year old nephew doing it fine. Try it on a broken appliance or some thing until your comfortable. It will serve you well through life.
post #9205 of 28697
about the guy that said dont let the wires touch anything hot because it will melt---

the plastic on those wires melt at an incredibly high temp (we're talking 150c or more) compared to the rest of the computer.

The only way your going to melt one is if you purposely shorted the power supply , and then ONLY if you disabled the safety features, such as the fuse.

Its just not going to happen @ 50-80c.

And the whole caps thing---

I replace my capacitors on the mobo/ in the power supply / video card all the time,

Not because they are bad, but because i like replacing them with higher quality (same capacity.. like 450uf with the same 450uf cap) except higher voltage tolerance.

This helps with overclocking as they dont overheat. but i dont recommend it unless you have a steady hand.
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post #9206 of 28697
DesertRat, welcome to the club

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeV_E36 View Post
If you saw the output diagrams of the 12v during the OCCT test you would cry man.. It's all spiky and under 12volts. How could noise be produced in my system so it turned it off?
Mike, it could be related to EMI (Electromagnetic interference), poor quality or failing components in the PSU. I mainly point my figure towards quality. Noise and ripple might also effect this.

In regards to the question about "wires being behind the motherboard", I've done this several times and haven't ran into any problems. As long as the wires are insulated and not exposed then I foresee no problems.

Good luck guys

Catsup, what brand do you normally go with (caps)?
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post #9207 of 28697
MikeV_E36: Do you have Spread Spectrum enabled? Having it enabled might cause greater fluctuations in the voltage to prevent EMI build up. On the flip side, having it disabled might be causing the EMI that is causing it to fluctuate. Whatever setting you have it on, try the other setting.
     
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post #9208 of 28697
i usually buy Sanyo because they make excellent solid state capacitors.

(i'll be back in a bit, i just got my new ram! yay.. )

check out sanyo, they sell them at the Shields near my house at decent prices.
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post #9209 of 28697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catsup View Post
about the guy that said dont let the wires touch anything hot because it will melt---

the plastic on those wires melt at an incredibly high temp (we're talking 150c or more) compared to the rest of the computer.

The only way your going to melt one is if you purposely shorted the power supply , and then ONLY if you disabled the safety features, such as the fuse.

Its just not going to happen @ 50-80c.
The guy is me. What I have suggested is because of seeing plastic/silicon things go into pieces after long exposure to high temps which happens due to phase changing driven by heat. Of course the wires won't melt instantly but the insulation's material properties are going to alter in long time and might rip sometime.

@Think3r & Blitz
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a closer look when the new psu arrives so as to be sure it's not anything about insufficient wattage!
Edited by MikeV_E36 - 11/25/08 at 11:23am
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post #9210 of 28697
Hey guys just got my first successful overclock with this Dr board. I'll keep pushing. Turned out my ram settings were all out of wack. I'm going to try to bring my Cvolt down now and see what happens. Here is the validation. I know it's not much but I gotta start somewhere.

In regards to melting the wires tucked behind the mobo. I would not think that your computer components could get hot enough to melt the rubber/Plastic insulation. On the other hand they may be able to heat up the plastic/rubber insulation to a point that it becomes more pliable or spongy for lack of a better word and less hard. That usually happens just before the molecules start to change from the heat. i.e. just before it reaches it's melting point. Resulting is less resistance to pressure. So if the wire did get warm enough to become more rubbery and it was pressed against other components then maybe it's possible the pressure could cause the insulation to become smashed enough to expose the wires within. I hopes my $.02$ helps

Validation Update: Looks like I'm on the right track now. voltage down fsb up ya!!!
Edited by N2Gaming - 11/25/08 at 11:39am
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