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post #10171 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderm0nkey View Post
In which case you could get away with a 550W psu as long as it had decent efficiency.. I personally dont' think I'll be moving away from my 600W psu anytime soon, even if I do upgrade to an i7.
Depends on the unit. As long as you have a good unit, I wouldn't bother changing PSU's.

I've been using my Zephyr 750 across multiple boxes (as it's my testing PSU.) Great unit, only a 78-80% Eff (not good enough for 80+.) But I'm not worried.

Though, I don't know about your Vantec ION unit. That might be wroth a change depending on it's quality.

Realistically, many OCN users could be running there rigs off of Corsair VX550's or CX400's (only named for quality and brand recognition reasons.)
Very few of us need anything along the lines of an HX750 or HX850.
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post #10172 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by flightsimnerd View Post
http://img718.imageshack.us/g/1000768.jpg/

Some pics of my first cable management job ever. In the CM 690 II. More pics and a review to come.
You need to do something about that 24 pin connector.
post #10173 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderm0nkey View Post
But what is the efficiency of that PSU? It's never going to fully output 380W to his components, based on how efficient it is.
i think you might have that backwards the efficiency should be how much power is being pulled from the wall to make 500 watts for the system, so a 500 watt 80% would pull like 600 watts from the wall.

right now my i7 gtx 295 is pulling around 300 watts at idle(along with 2 routers and a modem and phone charger) when i had it folding 24/7 it was more in the 500-550 range with my cpu and both 295 cores running.

btw got my 1million folding points for Evga so i have a free killer Xeno pro coming
edit: the power wire that came with my zalman 850 is the one on the left hand side with the white sticker on it, by far the thickest computer power cable i have seen its 14 gage wire lol. and is rated for 13 amps it says on the sticker, the close up shows a noticeable difference


Edited by gotspeed - 1/24/10 at 4:52pm
    
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post #10174 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderm0nkey View Post
Yeah the typical power consumption for a pc is very low. A lot of people go all out and buy ridiculous 1000W power supplies but their hardware doesn't consume near enough wattage to justify having that much power. Besides, it's not the wattage rating that is the important part, it's the efficiency of the psu. For example, my power supply is rated at 600W but is 72-78% efficient (which is better than most) Subtract 22% (using the higher efficiency as an example here) from 600W and you can then get an accurate measure of the true wattage of the psu. Mine supplies 468W total when it is at it's highest efficiency. (I'm fairly sure this is correct, as it's what my techy bf explained to me )

My last power supply had a built in power meter at the back so you could see how much power you were drawing from the wall socket. It really is astonishing to see.
tbh the rated wattage means jack all. 12v amperage is the only real indication of a PSU's capability. and yes efficiency is important too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastiaan_NL View Post
well, ive got a high wattage psu too, for the simple reason i had sli in mind.
My current GPU needs 40amps on the 12v rail, this one has got 70amps.
I guess thats enough for tri sli, but i wont run more than 2way.
Also if you overclock your cpu it'll take more power from your psu.
You might be someone running an awsome system, but its not overdone like some guys have it, and those guys use the big psu's with 1000+Watt. And thats not without a reason, i think im close to 500w stressed now, so thats a lot. I wouldnt be safe with my 580watt HKC psu. Its just the headroom i like to have, like a lot of other guys here.
I'm going to call BS on that. My rig with a 4890 (coming soon ) doesn't even use 20 12v amps out of my combined 32A.
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post #10175 of 19729
well, i dont give a .... about it if its bs or not, if they say its the safe max it needs, i go for that, i dont like unstable hardware. And besides that, its an awsome psu, so why not...xD
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post #10176 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
It's just like a foam. The purpose is so that the sound waves get absorbed and scattered in different directions when it hits the foam as opposed to bouncing off the hard walls, ceiling and floor of the chassis.

So any sound waves that are not absorbed get scattered and then get absorbed somewhere else. Many of the sound waves will still escape, but this foam gets a large portion of them.

It's a very similar effect to when you have a large gymnasium and then put carpet on the walls, floor and ceiling.
Interesting; do you think I could get this at a hardware store? I know it's on Newegg but shipping costs might be a problem for me as Newegg.ca's shipping in Canada doesn't have much options. Thanks btw
EDIT: Yep, the shipping costs (as well as the overall cost of the material) will throw my dad off.
Edited by xd_1771 - 1/24/10 at 10:29pm
post #10177 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_1771 View Post
Interesting; do you think I could get this at a hardware store? I know it's on Newegg but shipping costs might be a problem for me as Newegg.ca's shipping in Canada doesn't have much options. Thanks btw
EDIT: Yep, the shipping costs (as well as the overall cost of the material) will throw my dad off.
Anything that will not reflect sound waves like those hard surfaces inside will work. But I wouldn't go with thin sheets of cloth or anything.

I grant you that this Thermaltake stuff is probably prettier than what you'd end up using, but the goal is to basically change the interior walls, floor and ceiling from a "reflective" surface (for sound waves, not light waves) to a non-reflective one. So, its like the gymnasium analogy: the more surfaces there are to absorb sound waves and not allow them to bounce off and remain intact, the better the results. The goal is to make it so that when a sound wave hits the surface, it is partly absorbed and partly reflected and simultaneously scattered and partly destroyed. But usually a sound wave will bounce off a nice hard, reflective surface and remain intact (in a loosely similar way to a laser bouncing off of a mirror - imagine a laser pointed at a pile of clothes or something).

The thicker the stuff the better too because the sound waves will penetrate the material and get dispersed in all directions inside of the material.

But yeah, I want to get back to the gymnasium analogy once more: imagine what it would be like to be in a noisy gymnasium full of people with the following things on the walls:
  • Nothing but the bare brick (and nothing but the reflective wooden and cement floor as well as the cement ceiling).
  • A really thin single-layer of bedsheet-like material covering the walls, ceiling and floor.
  • A thick single-layer of something like a blanket covering the same (replaced the bedsheet-like material).
  • Approximately 5 layers of thick carpet covering the ceiling and walls with a really nice thick carpet for the floor.
Which one do you think will result in the deadest sound both inside and out? Actually, which one do you think will contain the sound the best?

And that's what it's really all about: containing the sound waves. The harder it is for the sound waves to escape and the quicker the sound waves die, the quieter it is.

I remember riding the same school bus every single day one year when we suddenly got a new schoolbus: this thing had an acoustic-tile ceiling (it had excellent sound absorption properties), and I think the rest of the interior had some other kind of sound absorption properties. The result was absolutely amazing: It was very difficult to get somebody to hear me at the back of the bus if I was at the front. I mean, it was a very, very, very quiet ride. It was like being on an airplane after my ears pop and all of the sudden I have trouble even hearing the person NEXT to me. I'm shaking my head right now because it was just WEIRD. But I understand how it all worked: the sound waves were not only absorbed by the ceiling, but by all of our clothing and our bodies (and the material that they had on the seats along with this special rubber floor).

The goal with that bus was to keep it quiet for the bus driver. I still remember getting to know the bus driver and being able to have nice quiet conversations with him while the other kids were able to be extremely loud in the back. I could tell that they were being loud by the sound of their voice, but the actual volume was really low. It was almost freaky.

So yeah, I hope that's enough to enable you to come up with some great solution that you can afford and easily obtain and install. You can probably find something at like a major home improvement/hardware store that has "everything".
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post #10178 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Anything that will not reflect sound waves like those hard surfaces inside will work. But I wouldn't go with thin sheets of cloth or anything.

I grant you that this Thermaltake stuff is probably prettier than what you'd end up using, but the goal is to basically change the interior walls, floor and ceiling from a "reflective" surface (for sound waves, not light waves) to a non-reflective one. So, its like the gymnasium analogy: the more surfaces there are to absorb sound waves and not allow them to bounce off and remain intact, the better the results. The goal is to make it so that when a sound wave hits the surface, it is partly absorbed and partly reflected and simultaneously scattered and partly destroyed. But usually a sound wave will bounce off a nice hard, reflective surface and remain intact (in a loosely similar way to a laser bouncing off of a mirror - imagine a laser pointed at a pile of clothes or something).

The thicker the stuff the better too because the sound waves will penetrate the material and get dispersed in all directions inside of the material.

But yeah, I want to get back to the gymnasium analogy once more: imagine what it would be like to be in a noisy gymnasium full of people with the following things on the walls:
  • Nothing but the bare brick (and nothing but the reflective wooden and cement floor as well as the cement ceiling).
  • A really thin single-layer of bedsheet-like material covering the walls, ceiling and floor.
  • A thick single-layer of something like a blanket covering the same (replaced the bedsheet-like material).
  • Approximately 5 layers of thick carpet covering the ceiling and walls with a really nice thick carpet for the floor.
Which one do you think will result in the deadest sound both inside and out? Actually, which one do you think will contain the sound the best?

And that's what it's really all about: containing the sound waves. The harder it is for the sound waves to escape and the quicker the sound waves die, the quieter it is.

I remember riding the same school bus every single day one year when we suddenly got a new schoolbus: this thing had an acoustic-tile ceiling (it had excellent sound absorption properties), and I think the rest of the interior had some other kind of sound absorption properties. The result was absolutely amazing: It was very difficult to get somebody to hear me at the back of the bus if I was at the front. I mean, it was a very, very, very quiet ride. It was like being on an airplane after my ears pop and all of the sudden I have trouble even hearing the person NEXT to me. I'm shaking my head right now because it was just WEIRD. But I understand how it all worked: the sound waves were not only absorbed by the ceiling, but by all of our clothing and our bodies (and the material that they had on the seats along with this special rubber floor).

The goal with that bus was to keep it quiet for the bus driver. I still remember getting to know the bus driver and being able to have nice quiet conversations with him while the other kids were able to be extremely loud in the back. I could tell that they were being loud by the sound of their voice, but the actual volume was really low. It was almost freaky.

So yeah, I hope that's enough to enable you to come up with some great solution that you can afford and easily obtain and install. You can probably find something at like a major home improvement/hardware store that has "everything".
i like your long posts twopenises
    
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1.5TB, 500GB, 400GB 74GB 10k 2x sata dvd burner's windows 7 64 Bit 24 inch acer 1920 x 1200 and 2x 18 dell 1280x1024 
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post #10179 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by gotspeed View Post
i like your long twopenises
lolwat
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post #10180 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by T3h_Ch33z_Muncha View Post
lolwat

    
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i7 920 @ 3.8 evga x58 evga gtx 295 w/backplate, evga 8400 (3ed monitor) 6 gigs gSkill 1333 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1.5TB, 500GB, 400GB 74GB 10k 2x sata dvd burner's windows 7 64 Bit 24 inch acer 1920 x 1200 and 2x 18 dell 1280x1024 
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