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The Cooler Master 690 Club - Page 1723

post #17221 of 19729
hide the white cable and take a pic of the internal
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Amd system
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post #17222 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger_nuts View Post

To use the switch you need to run the positive 12v wire from the molex (yellow) connector to the red wire of the switch.
Then run the black wire from the switch to the positive of the LED strip, probably the red one.
Then connect the black cable of the LED strip to a black cable on the molex.
Then the switch should work, turning the LED strip on and off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vidia-King View Post

Also can be done with the negative wire, so you don't burn out your switch/leds because resistance will build up form the positive wire behind the switch when the leds are off. thumb.gif

So take the red of the switch to one of the black on the molex(-12v) then the black from switch to the power of the LED strip and the - of the led strip to the other black(-12v) of the molex correct? doesnt -12v - -12v = 0 though?
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post #17223 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwl5apv View Post

So take the red of the switch to one of the black on the molex(-12v) then the black from switch to the power of the LED strip and the - of the led strip to the other black(-12v) of the molex correct? doesnt -12v - -12v = 0 though?

Her is a pic I made up in paint that should make it easy for ya.
Wiring Diagram (Click to show)
361

The reason we are "switching" the ground wire instead of the power wire is because the switch itself has no resistors to limit the flow of the power coming in (two wire non-lighted switches don't need a power source). In other words the power gets stored up behind the switch (which can make it quite hot and even melt), and when the circuit is connected by engaging the switch, the excess stored power discharges (could shock you). This can be avoided by adding a resistor to the line before the switch coming from the 12v power source but that's extra work you don't have to worry about in this scenario.

It might seem strange that were connecting the red wire from the switch, to the black wire from the molex plug right? Don't worry its just the wire casing, the color means absolutely nothing trust me. Make sure when your done that you have no loose ends or wire exposed and all of your "spliced" connections are taped, sleeved or shrinked. This will work if done correctly. Hope I helped some mwl5apv. smile.gif
Edited by Vidia-King - 5/12/12 at 11:38pm
post #17224 of 19729
teaching.gif

The only time the switch would ever melt is when your drawing more current (Amps) then it is rated for.

In the off position the switch will never (unless a fault is present) gain temperature.

We are only switching 12v (DC I believe) which is in no way dangerous, hell even 24v is harmless.

Putting a resistor in series will result in a voltage drop. Which in return increases your current (Amps).

Dropping your voltage as well, will probably mean that the LED's will not work, if they are rated for a 12v supply.

The method of switching the positive is a universal accepted way of switching a powered circuit.

Other wise your house circuit breakers would be switching the negatives not the positives.
post #17225 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vidia-King View Post

Her is a pic I made up in paint that should make it easy for ya. Wiring Diagram (Click to show)
361
The reason we are "switching" the ground wire instead of the power wire is because the switch itself has no resistors to limit the flow of the power coming in (two wire non-lighted switches don't need a power source). In other words the power gets stored up behind the switch (which can make it quite hot and even melt), and when the circuit is connected by engaging the switch, the excess stored power discharges (could shock you). This can be avoided by adding a resistor to the line before the switch coming from the 12v power source but that's extra work you don't have to worry about in this scenario.
It might seem strange that were connecting the red wire from the switch, to the black wire from the molex plug right? Don't worry its just the wire casing, the color means absolutely nothing trust me. Make sure when your done that you have no loose ends or wire exposed and all of your "spliced" connections are taped, sleeved or shrinked. This will work if done correctly. Hope I helped some mwl5apv. smile.gif

ok so according to the picture, + from LED to +12 from molex................ - from LED to - from switch................ + from switch to -12 molex. Ok, that makes more sense. Ill give it a go sometime in the next few days when I have a few spare moments and report back.
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post #17226 of 19729
i have a question, what size leds does the sickleflows have? i know this is off topic a lil' but im planning to change the leds of DVD and the chassis leds and would like to swap the green ones to white and more brighter ones. also, is anyone using an ex240 mounted at TOP? i also am planning on buying one since im painting the hdd caddies and apparently the rx240 doesnt fit up. also to users, should i go with sickleflows or gentle typhoons?i know they are ugly as fook but the sickleflow has more airflow (57.7CFM vs 70CFM) so with the price included the sickleflow it is a better choice but for water cooling im not sure.
     
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post #17227 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by barkinos98 View Post

i have a question, what size leds does the sickleflows have? i know this is off topic a lil' but im planning to change the leds of DVD and the chassis leds and would like to swap the green ones to white and more brighter ones. also, is anyone using an ex240 mounted at TOP? i also am planning on buying one since im painting the hdd caddies and apparently the rx240 doesnt fit up. also to users, should i go with sickleflows or gentle typhoons?i know they are ugly as fook but the sickleflow has more airflow (57.7CFM vs 70CFM) so with the price included the sickleflow it is a better choice but for water cooling im not sure.

Can't help about the LED's but:

The EX240 rad will fit up top, with the fans between the case and plastic cover.

The RX240 will fit down the bottom, only fits up top with some major modding.

If you are using XSPC rad's go the Typhoons, XSPC rad's do not need masses of air flow.

They have a very low FPI count. Fans with 1,000 rpm or lower is what they are designed for.
post #17228 of 19729
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger_nuts View Post

Can't help about the LED's but:
The EX240 rad will fit up top, with the fans between the case and plastic cover.
The RX240 will fit down the bottom, only fits up top with some major modding.
If you are using XSPC rad's go the Typhoons, XSPC rad's do not need masses of air flow.
They have a very low FPI count. Fans with 1,000 rpm or lower is what they are designed for.

cool. i already read about that so i was already going for an EX240. just wanted to confirm. also thanks on the advice for fans def. buying the EX240,Apogee White and some black comp. fittings biggrin.gif will post pics when i install it

Edit: Im buying both, using sickleflows for the front fans (will try to mod 2 to the lower panel) and the rest will be GT's. Also, for the exhaust fan is the NZXT 120MM fans okay? i want a fan with white blades and for the price/cfm/performance this looks fine. but im still open to other ideas as i didnt order it yet.
Edited by barkinos98 - 5/13/12 at 1:50pm
     
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post #17229 of 19729
Anyone here feel like making me a side panel window for my CM 690? Not for free or course, I have moneys biggrin.gif
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post #17230 of 19729
I like moneys! biggrin.gif What are you looking for? Got any sketches or mock ups you would like to share? In all honesty tho, if it's not to complected and if you posses basic craftsmanship knowledge/skills, I would really recommend doing it yourself. You will save $$$ that way. This job can be done for about $25 if you do it yourself, probably around $50-60+ if you are outsourcing (shipping, labor, supplies, ect)... Thats my 2cents.gif.
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