Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Incomplete] Project m998
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Incomplete] Project m998 - Page 10

post #91 of 194
can't wait to see the end product.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600k @ 4.6 Asus p8z68V-PRO Gen 3 EVGA GTX670 4gb 4x2gb  
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Force GT & Momentus XT Win 7-64 LG 27" Xarmor U9BL 
PowerCaseMouse
HX850 800d G5 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600k @ 4.6 Asus p8z68V-PRO Gen 3 EVGA GTX670 4gb 4x2gb  
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Force GT & Momentus XT Win 7-64 LG 27" Xarmor U9BL 
PowerCaseMouse
HX850 800d G5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #92 of 194
Are the wires tinned before you soldered them? If they aren't here is a little trick I learned from my summer job. Get some kind of delicate clamp and use it to hold the wire off the surface. Drop a small ball of solder on to the wire while pressing the end of the soldering tool to the wire. This will cause the solder to head for the heat and tin you wire. Do that for all you wires and when you solder them it will be much easier.

BTW I think that solder job looked really good.
Blue Flood
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core 2 Quad Q6600 3ghz G0 Stepping Asus P5N-E SLi NB reseated with AS5 8800 GTS 320 SLI 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5400 4-4-4-12 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
200GB SG 7,500 RPM CD-RW/DVD-RW Windows XP Pro 32-bit SP2 20" Samsung LCD 3000:1 Dynamic, 2ms 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G11 OCZ PowerXtreme 700w Blue Flood Case Mod Logitech MediaPlay Cordless 
Mouse Pad
10 year old mousepad 
  hide details  
Reply
Blue Flood
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core 2 Quad Q6600 3ghz G0 Stepping Asus P5N-E SLi NB reseated with AS5 8800 GTS 320 SLI 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5400 4-4-4-12 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
200GB SG 7,500 RPM CD-RW/DVD-RW Windows XP Pro 32-bit SP2 20" Samsung LCD 3000:1 Dynamic, 2ms 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G11 OCZ PowerXtreme 700w Blue Flood Case Mod Logitech MediaPlay Cordless 
Mouse Pad
10 year old mousepad 
  hide details  
Reply
post #93 of 194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3xtr3m3 View Post
Looking very clean and neat warf. It will look amazing with the lights and hardware installed.

Hope to see you in the 2008 case mod competition.
Thank you 3xtr3m3. I'm starting to get excited about the hardware now. Although now, every piece I look at I find myself concentrating not only on specs, but also how I can mod it to look the way I want it too. I have to keep telling myself, "performance first". It doesn't always seem to be working.

The lighting I think will need to wait until after I have a better look at the hardware I wind up with. I also find myself studying my plastic front bezel more and more. I don't see bondo and paint in its future, but I have a few ideas bouncing around upstairs.

As far as that case mod competition, I'm not sure what the rules will shake out for with that, but If I'm eligible, I'm sure I'll enter. How about you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErBall View Post
can't wait to see the end product.
Thanks, I can't either! I have to admit, through my eyes, that still looks to be a fair ways off yet though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrQ View Post
Are the wires tinned before you soldered them? If they aren't here is a little trick I learned from my summer job. Get some kind of delicate clamp and use it to hold the wire off the surface. Drop a small ball of solder on to the wire while pressing the end of the soldering tool to the wire. This will cause the solder to head for the heat and tin you wire. Do that for all you wires and when you solder them it will be much easier.
Hehe, I jumped into soldering without so much as reading a guide. My first efforts were also splicing aluminum (I think?) to copper wire, with a brand spanking new iron. I basically just tried to get a drop of solder to land on the wires, and then used the iron to spread it around as best I could, kind of like I was spreading jam on a sandwich. Needless to say, the end product wasn't too pretty.

I still haven't done much research (more of a trial by fire "on the job" sort of learning) but what I do sounds pretty similar to what you described. When I'm working on splicing two wires (of the same material) I have the iron on the wires, and touch the solder to them. The solder pretty much just wicks right into the splice. My Iron is "broken in" now and seems to hold it's own solder (it didn't when it was new). I also got some new solder that's a little finer and "rosin core", and it seems to be working much better for me.

I'll have to try that clamp thing to elevate the wires. If you have any other tips, I'm all ears!
post #94 of 194
Thread Starter 
Well, I didn't have much time for anything past thinking this week. Unfortunately, that can be a little dangerous.

Passing thoughts at work throughout the week started with me not being completely happy with the the shroud construction... and evolved into me wanting to get serious about the front bezel.

Initial design idea was something like this:




Deciding to keep the original plastic front bezel, that evolved into this:




And with the latest metal material, this:

post #95 of 194
Thread Starter 
Been looking at it further, and I think I'm going to keep the stock plastic bezel, and just mod it. Also, a complete rework of the top is now in the works. The basic design and lines will stay very similar, but expect the diamond plate to move around a bit. Also, I think there will definitely be some filler and paint work going on before it's all said and done. Semi-gloss black to match the case interior is the plan.

I needed some new toys:




The knobs listed there,,. Prosser, if you liked the improvement of the sunbeam knobs, check these out:



Here's a comparison shot with a sunbeam knob:



Now these are beefy. Polished up against a black panel, I think they should look very tough. The setscrews (two of them per knob) are even big. 6/32. Overall diameter of the knobs is just shy of an inch.
post #96 of 194
ooo shiny!!

LOL. I think those are going to look great. BTW why don't you just inset the whole front bezel with the diamond plate like a whole stripe down the front with the rest of the bezel accenting it in black on the sides?
Blue Flood
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core 2 Quad Q6600 3ghz G0 Stepping Asus P5N-E SLi NB reseated with AS5 8800 GTS 320 SLI 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5400 4-4-4-12 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
200GB SG 7,500 RPM CD-RW/DVD-RW Windows XP Pro 32-bit SP2 20" Samsung LCD 3000:1 Dynamic, 2ms 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G11 OCZ PowerXtreme 700w Blue Flood Case Mod Logitech MediaPlay Cordless 
Mouse Pad
10 year old mousepad 
  hide details  
Reply
Blue Flood
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core 2 Quad Q6600 3ghz G0 Stepping Asus P5N-E SLi NB reseated with AS5 8800 GTS 320 SLI 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5400 4-4-4-12 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
200GB SG 7,500 RPM CD-RW/DVD-RW Windows XP Pro 32-bit SP2 20" Samsung LCD 3000:1 Dynamic, 2ms 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G11 OCZ PowerXtreme 700w Blue Flood Case Mod Logitech MediaPlay Cordless 
Mouse Pad
10 year old mousepad 
  hide details  
Reply
post #97 of 194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrQ View Post
why don't you just inset the whole front bezel with the diamond plate like a whole stripe down the front with the rest of the bezel accenting it in black on the sides?
That was my initial thought too MrQ, but that offset front was throwing me fits again (from a design perspective). It wasn't the front actually, but how to carry it up onto the top that was giving me issues. See on the sketch-up how the diamond plate runs right too the edge of the shroud on one side, and has like an inch and a half on the other? That wasn't sitting right with me.

After a fair bit of photoshopping, I came up with this for the front:




Airflow would be a bit intake heavy at this point, but I think I can balance it effectively with the sunbeam:




Here's a shot of the case with the shroud moved to give you the gist of how the lines of the case would look:



I actually like the back heavy look a little better. If you're playing along with my vague military theme; its got more of a "tank" look to it now, and less of an "APC" feel this way.
  • I would partition the interior of the shroud to keep the PSU intake isolated.
  • Diamond plate accent at this point would be a removeable top panel on the shroud, rather than the side trim, for access to the fan mounting.
  • The front of the top there that's all hacked up would get a fill and paint treatment to match the front bezel.
  • For extra flash, I might even order up a 4.5" ID aluminum tube from McMaster-Carr, polish it up, and really go to the nines with the front blow holes.

The only major flaw of the plan that I see is that I lost the uniqueness of the shroud mounted fan control, and exchanged it for a much more "conventional" modded front panel. I'm not sure how I feel about this, but I'm also not too sure about a better solution. If I can pull off the all-aluminum blowholes, maybe that will make up for it.

BTW, thank you a ton for your response MrQ. I've been brainstorming this for several days now, and it wasn't until I used this platform to form a coherent response that I finally came up with a plan that I was half-way satisfied with.
post #98 of 194
Thread Starter 
Made a little progress today.

Here's a final shot of that stock bezel for posterity:




Disassembled what was supposed to be disassembled on the bezel, and then assembled my supplies:




No turning back now! For the record, plastic is much softer than aluminum:




Test fit. Uh oh. We have that recurrent alignment problem:




Time to take it down to the bare chassis. I snapped a pic of one of the fan assemblies, just because I thought it looked cool:




Some more rotary work on the plastic, making way for the new power switch plate... I don't know how I managed to do this on plastic:




Taped off the front of the case chassis and test fit one last time before I laid out my cuts:




I cant remember where I saw this, but I'm pretty sure it was here on Overclock.net. I used the rotary for my pilot holes before I tore in with the jigsaw:




Props to whoever showed that off. Speak up if you pass by. I owe you a rep. That worked a treat:



I ran into a lot of clearance issues for the bulgin style switches I have planned. One of those is on the way now too, so I can play around with it. Hopefully I wont have too many issues getting three of them to fit up there. If not, the dead space where the Ultra logo is now is wide open. some of them may end up down there.


After virtually no filing, (thanks to those handy rotary starters for the jigsaw), here's what I got. Remarkably, despite all the metal I have removed, its still very sturdy:




And, a parting shot with the bezel fitted again:




That's it for today. I have factory 3.5" bezels getting epoxied back into place for the night. They're going to be covered over with fiberglass eventually, but I wanted them to have a sturdy base for the sanding work and drilling that needs to follow.

I have some minor metal fabrication to do for the new fan mounts and the Sunbeam mount, but I'm waiting on my metal order to ship, so that will probably be next week. I have a plan for the Sunbeam mount that will let me play with my new bender. (I'm going to counter-sink the new knobs slightly into the curved plastic front bezel, and will need to push out the mounting plate for the controller a bit from the front of the chassis to pull this off).

'til next time folks.
post #99 of 194


Sch-weet!

How much were those knobs? Any chance of getting some shipped over?

Looks great man, and loving the redesign. The front looks amazing xD
Main Rig
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel C2D E6700 Asus P5KPL-AM mATX Palit GTS250 2 x 2GB OCZ PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Western Digital 500GB Pioneer DVD-RW Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Viewsonic VA2213w 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Media Keyboard Deluxe 750W Thermaltake Toughpower Antec NSW4400 Logitech MX510 
  hide details  
Reply
Main Rig
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel C2D E6700 Asus P5KPL-AM mATX Palit GTS250 2 x 2GB OCZ PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Western Digital 500GB Pioneer DVD-RW Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Viewsonic VA2213w 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Media Keyboard Deluxe 750W Thermaltake Toughpower Antec NSW4400 Logitech MX510 
  hide details  
Reply
post #100 of 194
Not sure how I missed this one, but great work so far!!! I'm lovein that case and the mod's make it look sweet!! Can't wait to see more!
MainframeIII
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930K Asus P9X79 Deluxe Asus R9 290X 16GB G-Skill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x240GB Crucial SSD Raid 0 Lg DVD W7 64bit Benq 24" FP241W & 23" FP231W 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G15 PC P&C Silencer 750 Thermaltake Armor Modded Rat 9 
Audio
Asus Xonar Essence STX 
  hide details  
Reply
MainframeIII
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930K Asus P9X79 Deluxe Asus R9 290X 16GB G-Skill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x240GB Crucial SSD Raid 0 Lg DVD W7 64bit Benq 24" FP241W & 23" FP231W 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G15 PC P&C Silencer 750 Thermaltake Armor Modded Rat 9 
Audio
Asus Xonar Essence STX 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mod Work Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Incomplete] Project m998