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post #41 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyJoe View Post
Thanks for the link ! ( saved me alot of searching ) I was going to ask about that very thing. Way ahead of me.

You mentioned using 5/8" T with a smaller top barb ... possibly 1/4" to alleviate the 2-3" variance ... would this be the way to go for me ?

Use 1/4"ID hose for the inlet and outlet pressure lines ?
After thinking about it more, I finally realized for pressure drop testing, it doesn't matter at all. Some of the concern was that as water runs through the T fittings that a little added pressure from the restriction in the Tline is giving false added pressure.

It's true that there is some error, but as long as you're running the same T fitting on both manometers, the error is canceled out. You are measuring pressure difference which is what pressure drop is. If there is 3" of added pressure in T#1, there is also 3" of added pressure in T#2. Pressur drop is T1-T2, so the error has no influence. I would use 5/8" T fittings, and at least 7/16ID tubing, 1/2" is even better. The reason for the slightly larger tubing size is not for pressure, it's just to eliminate the water from pocketing air bubbles in the lines. Like you saw in your testing with the max pressure test, it's a fair amount of water running up and down. While the size maxes absolutely no difference in pressure reading, I found 3/8" tubing would get air pockets stuck in it and found myself constantly fighting the air pockets.

For my digital manometer I made special 5/8" x 1/4" tees to minimize any error, but I'm not running much water up the 1/4" lines, it's only a small amount that's compressing the air in the line.

So the T manometers work really well without error for pressuredrop testing. I would just suggest that you hold the outfall into a bucket to measure flow rate at a constant elevation. You get static pressure from the tubing that runs into the bucket, but as long as it stays at the same elevation, it's fine. In the end I was just using household water to feed the test. As long as your household water pressure stays relatively constant, it works fine. Pumps work ok, but they don't have very much pressure to test more restrictive stuff. A D5 for example won't test a Fuzion much beyond about 2.2GPM, but preferrably you should gather a data point out at 3GPM or more if possible.

Look forward to the 480gtx results!
    
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post #42 of 43
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An excellent tutorial on using your manometer design !

Thanks again for all the insight ... it'll make things go much smoother.

I'll be making a trip Tomorrow to the local Lowes, Menards or Home Depot to pick up some T's and then perhaps to USPlastics to see what kind of graduated container they might have for the basin.
post #43 of 43
sorry guys, off topic for abit. what diff can i see with a swap from the basic to the vario? my loop is using tygon 7/16"id tubing with 5/8"OD with a thermochill pa 120.3 cooling a q6600 on a dtek quad nozzle and mcw60 on ultras
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