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Temps really bad, need advice...**Updated with pics of problem! - Page 2

post #11 of 71
you should've had somebody help hold the tline up! hope you fix this problem eventually
    
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post #12 of 71
Can you not take your rad loose and shake it up while your bleeding it? Thats where most of the air will be, in the rad...
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post #13 of 71
How can you tell it you have air in the loop? Also, explain why tilting gets rid of the bubble. I use a micro res do I take the cap off the res then tilt. Also, I have what looks like condensation building up on the roof of the res, normal?
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post #14 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
How can you tell it you have air in the loop? Also, explain why tilting gets rid of the bubble. I use a micro res do I take the cap off the res then tilt. Also, I have what looks like condensation building up on the roof of the res, normal?
The tilting just helps to get bubbles out of places and towards the t-line or res. I don't have a res myself but condensation is normal I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Can you not take your rad loose and shake it up while your bleeding it? Thats where most of the air will be, in the rad...
I'm using the Swiftech Rad Box....I probably could get it loose, but that might be tricky because of the kink I had to fix...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pwnage101 View Post
you should've had somebody help hold the tline up! hope you fix this problem eventually
yah it should be fixed soon...most of the air is out already (surprisingly)


Almost done!
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post #15 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomstick68 View Post
How can you tell it you have air in the loop? Also, explain why tilting gets rid of the bubble. I use a micro res do I take the cap off the res then tilt. Also, I have what looks like condensation building up on the roof of the res, normal?
Air likes to hide in fittings,and you can actually have enough air trapped in your rad to give you terrible temp's, it has to be all worked out...We we say to rock your box it means to tilt it from side to side and front to back to help work the air out...If you see little micro-bubbles on your tubing just tap around on them with your finger or something to knock them loose...And you need to take your res cap to t-line cap off when you bleed ot let the air escape, be careful not to tilt it so that your out-let comes uncovered in your res or it will suck air back into your loop....Keeping your res at the highest point in your loop helps bleeding a lot...I like to leave my rad loose to so I can lay it down low and shake it up a lot when I'm bleeding to get all the air out of it...That sweat on the top of your res is normal....

EDIT: If you can get it off at all it will be a lot easier to bleed, just lay it down low and shake it like I was telling him....
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post #16 of 71
Thread Starter 
About to turn it on...

But off topic, my MCP655 has it's voltage range printed as 12-24v. Does this mean I can overvolt it to 24?
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post #17 of 71
Thread Starter 
OK I just turned it on and temps are as bad as they were before. This is starting to suck bad. Do I need to lap my proc?
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post #18 of 71
Did you ever straight-edge and see if it needs to be lapped? You can use almost anything with a known straight-edge, a ruler, playing card, razor blade the back of a knife blade...If its not cupped or convex we need to your on your mounting...
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post #19 of 71
Thread Starter 
I checked the flatness with my knife's back and it seems pretty bent. Not very flat. I also reseated with less TIM and now the temps are worse.
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post #20 of 71
The HSF base isn't flat?

Is it bowed (convex)?

Note: I have only done this when it was my intention to fully lap.

I have used an ink pad in the past. I lightly "stamp" the HSF footrpint into the ink, then let dry.

Then, I take a piece of sandpaper (400) and run the HSF fan across it once slowly and evenly. Then, I take a look at the footprint to see where the irregularities are.

Doing this give me an idea of how much I need to take down, and at what grit paper to start at.
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