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Pre-Lapped TRUE? - Page 2

post #11 of 30
*Sigh* Extremely embarrassed, but what is the TRUE? I see about 200 threads about it.
    
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post #12 of 30
Oh, it's just the Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120.

I had to ask the same question less than a week ago!
post #13 of 30
Sorry for hijacking this, but how well is the crazypc's lapping for TRUE?

I don't want to use 3 hours of time to do it if the job will not be as great as crazypc's especially since i never lapped before.
    
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post #14 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5CheeseLasagna View Post
I had to ask the same question less than a week ago!
And I've been answering the same question for a while now.
Waka waka waka
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Waka waka waka
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post #15 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by McStuff View Post
And I've been answering the same question for a while now.
Aw, that's so nice of you! haha

Btw, nice sig.
post #16 of 30
One lapping kit was enough for me to do both my water blocks and my x3220 and there was a little bit extra.
post #17 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5CheeseLasagna View Post
Aw, that's so nice of you! haha
Anything to help the nubs up to speed
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post #18 of 30
Thread Starter 
Perfect Gir, thanks! I'll get to buying that now.

~Gooda~
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post #19 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjinsamax3 View Post
Sorry for hijacking this, but how well is the crazypc's lapping for TRUE?

I don't want to use 3 hours of time to do it if the job will not be as great as crazypc's especially since i never lapped before.
Can someone answer that?
post #20 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalBear View Post
Can someone answer that?

If you can build a PC, you can lap a HSF and CPU

Just make sure you have everything you need before you start. All your sandpaper, your flat surface and masking tape. Tape all 4 sides of the paper to the flat surface. Turn on a good movie (I used Fellowship of the Ring XE) and just do it yourself. Use the flat surface and all you do is push it forward on the sand paper and then pull it back. Use the same spot on the paper until it is done then move over 2" and continue. 220grit (HSF only) > 400grit (start CPU here) > 800 > 1000 > 1500/2000 for mirror shine. Rotate a quarter turn every time you move over 2".

When you are using the 220grit on the HSF and 400 on the CPU to start, you will notice when the base gets flat. Make a pass on the sand paper and look at the surface. If the streaks in a way where the whole flat surface was on the sandpaper at the same time (you will be able to tell trust me) it is flat.

Continue refining all the way through the grit progressions and always making sure to keep it flat on the paper. It will have a tendency to want to raise up but as you go along you will figure out a way for you to personally keep the HSF/CPU flat on the sandpaper through the full motion pushing and pulling on the sandpaper. I have relatively long fingers so I always held the base of my TRUE. When the quarter turn was at a diangle, I still kept my fingers on the base. I was unable to hold it up high and keep it flat. Don't worry about damaging your $60 HS. It is built like a tank. It is more than twice as sturdy as a TT120. It feels like SOLID aluminum.

At 1000grit sprinkle a little oil in the center of the paper. Dab it up so that there is not a puddle. Don't push through a puddle of oil. Just use a little to kind of lubricate the surface. It will help move across the fine grit surface.

It is not rocket science. You can't mess up because you are always going to have a guild...your flat surface. You don't have to press extremely hard because the sand paper does the work.
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Work Work
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