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[Idea]: Fishtank Water Cooling! - Page 9

post #81 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldnapalm View Post
Didnt read every post. But i think that would hurt the fish, also if you do do it you should make the pipe maze throught the bottom of the tank. So it spends a much longer time cooling... This may require a better pump, but me and my good friend both made in our minds the ultimate cooler we have no radiatior. What weve done was take a bunchhhh of pipe and drill a hole in the bottom of his family fridge and send the water through a long maze in the fridge and then come out of anthor whole and run through his system agian but keep in mind this killed his first pump 100% just to much coolant to move to far so he ended up buying a very expesive pump but it works like a dream.
And no it does not spoil the food or make enough heat to hurt anythign in the fridge...
Pics please?
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post #82 of 86
Sounds like a dual pump job?
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post #83 of 86
I've been considering a variation on the OP's idea.

Assume that I have a 400 gallon aquarium. Assume it's in a basement (concrete floor supports the weight), so the ambient room temperature is fairly stable and hovers around 60F. The aquarium is tropical, and so needs to be around 80F - this gives a 20F space for heat capacity.

AND, assume that this aquarium experiences a steady-state water change behavior, wherein water from the city tap is flowed into the tank, non-stop, at a rate sufficient to provide the equivalent to a 10-20% weekly water change. Assume that the output water has a destination to go to (overflowed to a drain from the tank).

The idea is then to place the water-cooled PC in between the city tap and the tank, using the PC to pre-heat the input water. Raw city tap water would be flowed into the PC cooling system, that same water would flow out of the PC to a carbon filter and then into the fish tank.

The original design used a standard closed-loop water cooling system with a radiator, and flowed the tap water over the exterior of the radiator before it runs to the filter and then into the tank. But this seems inefficient, as it involves two heat transfers instead of one.


Questions:
1. I've read that using water without additives will cause problems with galvanic corrosion. But isn't galvanic corrosion between two different types of metals? If my input water source is copper (house pipes) and the heat blocks are copper, is this still an issue?

2. Just how bad is the mineralization problem from using tap water? Presumably this problem gets worse when using a constant fresh flow of water, as it also means a constant fresh flow of minerals. On the plus side, the chlorination from the city solves any algae issues.

3. Any thoughts on whether or not a Core i7-930 and a GTX 480, both kept at full load 24/7, would drive the aquarium above 80F? (my thought was no.)


EDIT:
Ok, ok, so my searches were inadequate prior to posting this. Tap water is bad, but the pictorial I found reinforces this nicely.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...r-example.html

All this really means is that instead of doing direct flow, I move back to the original idea of separate fluids - do a closed loop for the cooling system, and put the radiator block underneath a steady flow of tap water. Tap water runs over the outside of the radiator, cooling it.

In this case, should I be concerned about mineral buildup on the exterior of the radiator? (you'll probably answer yes, but it still seems like a cool idea)
Edited by oliver.wendell.jones - 6/12/10 at 8:44pm
post #84 of 86
I know the water where I live is very heavy, lots of metals and minerals. I wouldnt dream of running tap water through a WC system, but maybe thats jst me
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post #85 of 86
I suggest bettas. Tropical fish that are very easy to take care of. You'll want females because males will fight together.

One thing to consider: what happens when the fish get sick? They will at some point, trust me. You'll have to add in powder or liquid based medications, and that would most likely clog your loop.

At the very least, make sure you have a backup fish tank available (5-10 gallons is good for a single betta).
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post #86 of 86
If anyone was thinking of runnig a fish tank as a res, don't do it. The stuff in the water clogs up every part of your system un till it does not flow at all anymore. I was geting stuff building up on the inside of my hoses once and thought it would be cool to run some stuff through it that would kil what ever was growing in there. Instead I clogged up the system and had to completely tear it down and clean it out with pipe cleaners and bottle brushes. Had stuff clogging up my rad that took for ever to get out.

When it comes to liquid cooling, just keep it simple or be ready to replace stuff. If you are going to get crazy and add the tank to the loop, Add a small screen about 6" from the intake to lower the chance something like your fish gets pulled in. Then add a large in line filter somewhere right after the tank so that you don't contaminate the loop in the PC.

Like has been said before your going to fry most kinds of fish. be ready to spend cash on new ones once the temp gets stable and you can then find fish that should be able to life in the envirnment you created.

After all that is said. That is a cool idea. Love to see it happen.
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