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Car audio in the house - Page 3

post #21 of 29
Thread Starter 
Thnx for the suggestion but I'm not likin that idea.
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post #22 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARealTech View Post
No offense, rx7speed, but you don't know what you're talkin about. I can't imagine anyone watching this thread would agree with you.
if your going to put a claim out like that at least back it up.

so here simple question to leave the ball in your court. how is a class d amp more optimized for a sub?

are we going to get an answer or are you going to just walk off this thread now?
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post #23 of 29
Thread Starter 
lol seems like your taking this personally. don't get your panties all up tight.
no, i can't explain it and its possible im wrong in some way if not all.
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post #24 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by pheoxs View Post
Easy way, and fairly cost effective however takes up quite a bit of room.

Buy 4 PSU's (preferably identical) with 40 or more amps on the 3.3V rails.

Connect them in series

positive_1 --> negative_2 --> positive_2 --> negative_3...

etc, using 4 will give you 3.3*4 = 13.2V with 40amps (or whatever the 3.3v rails are rated at) which is the voltage a car alternator produces.

There is a guide on OCN that someone wrote up a while ago if you want to use this method, I'm not sure where it is but if you search for it, it should show up.
Lol, why in the world would you do that instead of just using the 12v rail?

I've got a "1000w" (not really) car amp driving my 500w car sub... and I'm powering it with the cheapo 480w power supply that came out of my computer case when I replaced it. Works like a dream.

All I did is chop off the end of the vcore line, put the two blacks on negative and two yellows on positive, put a jumper between the positive and the "on/off" selector, and away I go. Hit the power switch on the PSU to turn the whole thing on. It is freakin awesome, and sounds halfway decent. Get's loud at any rate.

$5 for the amp at a garage sale, $30 for the 500w sub, $12 to build a custom enclosure for the sub, and a free cheapo PSU.
post #25 of 29
look at how you posted it. telling me I don't know what I'm talking about and yet here in this post you can't even explain it and even admit that you might be wrong.

next time please if you're going to tell someone they don't know what they are talking about at least be able to back up why you say that. And in all honesty I am curious as to why you even said that if you can't even explain it.
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post #26 of 29
Thread Starter 
lol, are you gonna be able to sleep tonight?

this is a forum, get a life.
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post #27 of 29
I'll sleep fine once it's time to go to bed. don't worry about me
I have a life also I'm just killing time trying to wind down as it has been a long day.

any other ways you would like to try to insult me here?

also to answer your question take a psu short 14 to ground. hook up a small 5/10 watt resistor to each the 5v and 3.3v rails. take the 12 volt output to your car amp. you have power.

how much is another story though depends on how much power your looking to put through your amplifier. that should at least give you what you want with using your car amp but there are better sounding things you can do instead, unless your idea of sq is spl but even then this won't do much.
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post #28 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtSpike View Post
Lol, why in the world would you do that instead of just using the 12v rail?

I've got a "1000w" (not really) car amp driving my 500w car sub... and I'm powering it with the cheapo 480w power supply that came out of my computer case when I replaced it. Works like a dream.

All I did is chop off the end of the vcore line, put the two blacks on negative and two yellows on positive, put a jumper between the positive and the "on/off" selector, and away I go. Hit the power switch on the PSU to turn the whole thing on. It is freakin awesome, and sounds halfway decent. Get's loud at any rate.

$5 for the amp at a garage sale, $30 for the 500w sub, $12 to build a custom enclosure for the sub, and a free cheapo PSU.
Main reason is because most of the newer power supplies are going for multi-rail designs, so all of the cheaper PSU's only have maybe 20 amps max on a 12v rail = 240 watts which isn't nearly enough.
post #29 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by pheoxs View Post
Main reason is because most of the newer power supplies are going for multi-rail designs, so all of the cheaper PSU's only have maybe 20 amps max on a 12v rail = 240 watts which isn't nearly enough.
True, but then again 20A is based on continuous output. On a decent PSU, you could probably pull 30A, maybe 50A on a spike without killing it.

Plus you *could* just tie the rails together (take some yellows and blacks from each rail). It shouldn't hurt anything, as most "dual rails" are really single rails that are split.
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