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LAP/IHS Removal E2180 BAD NEWS BEARS

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
So I was lapping my E2180 last night and I got all the nickel removed so the IHS was completely copper. This process took me about an hour and after I could see a square flat spot in the middle where the core is but on the outer edges it was scuffed differently than the middle.

This concerned me as the whole thing should appear the same (ie flat). So I kept rotating the cpu 90* every 15 up/down movements. I kept at it and kept at it and I could not get the whole thing to look evenly flat. The center had a square that was flat (the core) and the rest was scuffed still. I decided this wasn't that bad, but instead of moving up to the next grit I said screw it.

So I got out the razer blade and started to cut the rubber gasket around the IHS. This took a while and I had a really hard time trying to get a firm grip on the razer blade. It was really awkward trying to hold the CPU and the razer blade and cut through without cutting through my fingers, haha.

I made it around the CPU twice, and still had to keep going. I was on the part where the black intel tag is (the odd side of the cpu) and the razer slipped and I dug the blade into the PCB. OUCH. It was a minor scratch but enough that I could see copper circuitry underneath. I finally found a better way to hold the CPU and kept cutting the IHS off. Finally I got it all the way off, put the heatsink on after applying AS5 and I got no video. The PC turns on for 5 seconds, then shuts off.

Very upset. I should of been more careful. So to cheer myself up, I bought another 2180, and a new case. Hah. Good way to spend $250. Anyways, next time I don't think I'll be removing the IHS as it wasn't THAT easy. With a super sharp razer blade it might be easier..my razer was brand new, but still.. maybe an exacto or something would be better to use. I think I will attempt to lap the cpu when I get it in though.

Like I said, the center where the core is, was flat. It was a square about the size of a key on a laptop. Should I have just moven up to next grit at this point or just kept going? I've read multiple lapping articles that say "yeah it will take about 20 minutes of sanding to get the nickel off". I've lapped 3 heat sinks and 1 CPU successfully and it takes alot more than 20 minutes. More like an hour. With an hour of each grit after that. VERY TIME CONSUMING.


just a shot in the dark here, is there any way to ressurect my scratched PCB? It is a very minor scratch, I just don't know how that works or what exactly is causing it to not work... maybe it's fixable? unlikely but hopefully.
G4M3R
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G4M3R
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post #2 of 4
I'm not sure about the PCB thing, probably not. I just wanted to say Bad News Bears was awesome. Better luck next time.
post #3 of 4
Correct me if iam wrong, you got the IHS off, put the CPU in the socket and mounted your heatsink, powered system on and it shuts off few seconds later? I have some questions for you,

1. Did you remove the CPU socket loading plate before you installed your de-lidded procssor? If you don't your heatsink will NOT make contact with the die and it will overheat till shutdown in seconds.

2. If you did remove the loading plate did you lay the tower down on its side? Doing so will use the weight of the heatsink for better contact with the die and to keep the processor itself properly seated in the socket. If its not seated with enough pressure in the socket it will not start up.

3. If you did those or are going to do those and it still won't start then yes the chip you made in the PCB was too deep and you severed one or more circuits It seems like you rushed through it a little, take your time a little more carefully next time.

There is a IHS removal thread in my sig that may be of interest to you.
     
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post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
i read the guide and i figured it was easy haha. like i said though, the hard part was finding the proper way to hold the CPU and effectively cut with the razer blade without getting close to cutting my fingers off, ha.

And no, I didn't try having the PC on it's side. I did remove the thing on the 775 socket though. I have a tuniq with the screw in mounts and I screwed them as tight as possible..i figured this would be enough..

ill try mounting it on its side to see if thats any different
G4M3R
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G4M3R
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