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[Official] OCN Camera Thread - Page 1394

post #13931 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudemanppl View Post
I use a surprising lot of live view. Mostly to check exposure for my R3a though and depth of field and dumb stuff like that.



I usually stick to 1/8000 f/1.4 (1/60 f/16) ISO 100 and change based on that, shooting against the sun add 1 and a half stops. And then just keep going lower and lower. Seems to be working well so far.
thanks but I don't have 1/8000 on my spotmatic spII. I overall stop using the light meter and started to use that guide plus a pocket sized one on the go



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post #13932 of 29551
My R3a tops out at 1/2000. : Just stop down or buy ND filters.
post #13933 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknownm View Post
thanks but I don't have 1/8000 on my spotmatic spII. I overall stop using the light meter and started to use that guide plus a pocket sized one on the go



other then just guessing that has to be by far the most inaccurate way of metering....
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post #13934 of 29551
Guessing would be better. Randomly picking would be worse.
post #13935 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudemanppl View Post
I use a surprising lot of live view. Mostly to check exposure for my R3a though and depth of field and dumb stuff like that.



I usually stick to 1/8000 f/1.4 (1/60 f/16) ISO 100 and change based on that, shooting against the sun add 1 and a half stops. And then just keep going lower and lower. Seems to be working well so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mz-n10 View Post
other then just guessing that has to be by far the most inaccurate way of metering....
Quote:
Originally Posted by mz-n10 View Post
other then just guessing that has to be by far the most inaccurate way of metering....
why's that?

I'm new to film and light meters, so please explain and direct me to correct way of getting best results using a light meter or no light meter.
Edited by Unknownm - 6/23/11 at 12:05am
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post #13936 of 29551
If you're shooting black and white, just try to get sort of in the ballpark. You have quite the lot of exposure latitude. Or just shoot digital around and you'll get the hang of exposure values of a certain scene, I'm usually about a half stop off.
post #13937 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudemanppl View Post
If you're shooting black and white, just try to get sort of in the ballpark. You have quite the lot of exposure latitude. Or just shoot digital around and you'll get the hang of exposure values of a certain scene, I'm usually about a half stop off.
using ILford xp2 b&w 400. Alright, any tips?
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post #13938 of 29551
I usually shoot ISO 100 film, but it doesn't really matter, personal preference. Some people find shooting overexposed (basically a lower ISO) and then developing for that gives more dynamic range, but I haven't tried that yet. Try to see the world in tones, points of darkness and brightness, instead of colors. I still don't have that yet and keep taking pictures of flowers... :3
post #13939 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudemanppl View Post
I usually shoot ISO 100 film, but it doesn't really matter, personal preference. Some people find shooting overexposed (basically a lower ISO) and then developing for that gives more dynamic range, but I haven't tried that yet. Try to see the world in tones, points of darkness and brightness, instead of colors. I still don't have that yet and keep taking pictures of flowers... :3
same here man. I'm using B&W to not think of colors, I guess it's best to start picturing everything in tones.

Got a link to share where I can start thinking about tones?
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post #13940 of 29551
No, I usually just piece together bits of information I find browsing around the interwebs. Sorry.
OT: Watching some of Kubrick's films. A Clockwork Orange is interesting.
Edited by dudemanppl - 6/23/11 at 2:54am
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