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post #1581 of 29551
What would be a good macro lens for my Canon XSi? (not looking for an expensive one)

Also looking for a fixed lens, just can't decide between a 50mm lens or to go for more of a wide angle lens.
Edited by Marin - 12/5/08 at 12:32am
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post #1582 of 29551
what do you consider 'expensive'?
for some that might mean they are looking for a ~150 dollar lens, others a ~400 dollar lens
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post #1583 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by [PWN]Schubie View Post
what do you consider 'expensive'?
for some that might mean they are looking for a ~150 dollar lens, others a ~400 dollar lens
More in the $150 range.
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post #1584 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marin View Post
What would be a good macro lens for my Canon XSi? (not looking for an expensive one)

Also looking for a fixed lens, just can't decide between a 50mm lens or to go for more of a wide angle lens.
Canon makes 50mm, 60mm and 100mm macro lenses (I think there are others, but those are the common ones), and they're all in increasing order of price $250, $350 and $450 (approx. retail), so you can count on spending about that much. I have the 60mm, and it's one of my sharpest lenses. It gives you 1:1 macros and it makes pretty good all-purpose lens too.

And macros are fixed lenses. Tamron makes some zoom lenses that have macro capability, but I've never used them.

And for a prime, there are sub 50mm lenses, like the 20mm & 28mm f/1.8 (and f/2.8 models), but they aren't as sharp as the 50mm. They call the 50mm prime the "nifty fifty" for a reason - they are very sharp and have the widest apertures. And the good thing is that Canon sells the 50mm EF Mk II f/1.8 for only $80, so it's a good value. I opted for the 50mm USM f/1.4, although it cost me $300 (but USM is so sweet).

But as far as lenses go, it's worth going all out (or as much as you can!), because lenses are for keeps. Bodies will come and go like PC components.
Edited by GoneTomorrow - 12/5/08 at 5:14am
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post #1585 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoBe8503 View Post
Alright here's a new attempt at the same composition, but aperture set at 5.6.

I also attached another one I took right after work. I love it lol

As far as the time settings on the D60. The longest preset IS 30 seconds. Then you use bulb. Without the remote you have to hold down the shutter button. With the remote you just push it once, wait your time, then push it again to close the shutter. There is a maximum time of 30 min (I think). The manual tells the exact time. It automatically shuts off to save battery life and to prevent anything bad happening to the sensor.
Whoa, a lot more snow in that second shot! I hate to say it, but it looks a tad out of focus (The previous shot was focused). Either that or holding your finger on the shutter release on the camera is causing too much movement. And as for apertures, f/5.6 is a little wide for landscapes and might leave the corners out of the DOF. For landscapes, I usually go f/8 - f/10 or so.

The pine needle shot is quite good though, nice work!
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post #1586 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneTomorrow View Post
Canon makes 50mm, 60mm and 100mm macro lenses (I think there are others, but those are the common ones), and they're all in increasing order of price $250, $350 and $450 (approx. retail), so you can count on spending about that much. I have the 60mm, and it's one of my sharpest lenses. It gives you 1:1 macros and it makes pretty good all-purpose lens too.

And macros are fixed lenses. Tamron makes some zoom lenses that have macro capability, but I've never used them.

And for a prime, there are sub 50mm lenses, like the 20mm & 28mm f/1.8 (and f/2.8 models), but they aren't as sharp as the 50mm. They call the 50mm prime the "nifty fifty" for a reason - they are very sharp and have the widest apertures. And the good thing is that Canon sells the 50mm EF Mk II f/1.8 for only $80, so it's a good value. I opted for the 50mm USM f/1.4, although it cost me $300 (but USM is so sweet).

But as far as lenses go, it's worth going all out (or as much as you can!), because lenses are for keeps. Bodies will come and go like PC components.
Great to know. I'll look into 50mm lenses then.
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post #1587 of 29551
Here's a few pictures I took today, let me know what you think.







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post #1588 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stanrc View Post
Here's a few pictures I took today, let me know what you think.
IMG_0231 - looks like you've been busy since you got that XS! You should leave the EXIF embedded in your shots, so we can see your settings.

Not bad, decent composition, but I think some HDR treatment could spiffy some of these up nicely. In the bridge shot, the sky is completely blown out, through no fault of your own, because the area below the treeline and bridge was metered. Did you shoot these in RAW? If so you could do a single RAW HDR or exposure blend on that shot.

And shooting when overcast usually needs some post-processing. Upping the saturation makes for a nice contrast against all the greyness.

Landscape shots also do well to have a foreground element, such as a road, rocks, branches, etc., to "lead" to viewer into the shot, otherwise it can look like bland.

Landscapes are the hardest kind of shot IMO. So many rules to go by, and usually the most amount of post processing.

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post #1589 of 29551
I'm not sure how to leave the EXIF data on the pictures. Is that a setting on the camera or the photo software used? They were all shot in JPEG mode, not RAW.

I took quite a few of that bridge with various settings just to try things out. I tried setting a long shutter time so it would make a nice effect on the water but they all came out overexposed, even after adjusting the aperture. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong.

I know the last shot is pretty bland, I only posted it because it actually came out better looking in a picture than actually being there. Plus I liked the silhouette of the tree line.

Here is a link to the full album, there is another picture of the bridge that came out nicely I though. I might be uploading more as I look through them.

http://picasaweb.google.com/stanrc/LeesylvaniaStatePark
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post #1590 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stanrc View Post
I'm not sure how to leave the EXIF data on the pictures. Is that a setting on the camera or the photo software used? They were all shot in JPEG mode, not RAW.

I took quite a few of that bridge with various settings just to try things out. I tried setting a long shutter time so it would make a nice effect on the water but they all came out overexposed, even after adjusting the aperture. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong.

I know the last shot is pretty bland, I only posted it because it actually came out better looking in a picture than actually being there. Plus I liked the silhouette of the tree line.

Here is a link to the full album, there is another picture of the bridge that came out nicely I though. I might be uploading more as I look through them.

http://picasaweb.google.com/stanrc/LeesylvaniaStatePark
I like the other two bridge shots much better!

To do long shutter exposures during daylight hours, you can do two things: narrow the aperture a great deal, but often it is still too bright, as you noted. And with really high apertures on the order of f/22, the sharpness tends to drop off for most lenses. Secondly, you can use a neutral density filter, which is nothing more than a dark tinted filter, which dampens the light coming in and effectively makes it dark outside to the camera. This will let you do long exposures for water and such.

And you should try shooting in RAW. Canon's Digital Photo Professional, which comes with their DSLRs, is very capable and allows you to make adjustments post shot that cannot be done effectively with JPEGs.
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