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[Official] OCN Camera Thread - Page 1999

post #19981 of 29551
Hey so you guys remember me mentioning the Voigtlander Bessa II my family found at my grandma's place and gave it to me? Ya so i'm home for spring break now and got a roll of 120 film to run through it. I looked up how to load MF film, doesn't seem too terribly complicated. The issue though that i realized i have, is the camera has no light meter.

Would it be possible for me to meter a scene with my 5Dc, and use the settings on the Bessa II? The Bessa II has a 105mm lens on it, and for a 6x9 camera, the 35mm equivalent is 45mm. Could i just slap on my 50mm lens on my 5Dc and be fine metering like that?
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post #19982 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

Better hope you can find a dark slide for that Bronica, and hoo boy does it look clean. I don't know about 535, though, especially since it's got a 220 back.

I have Absolutely NO idea what any of this means. I hang out in the computer forums and I know that none of my friends know their 3930k's from their 680's... it's kind of fun to see some new lingo and not know what anyone is talking about. smile.gif
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post #19983 of 29551
He's talking film, and not digital.

Only a handful of guys here know what the hell he is talking about smile.gif

I am not one. But then again, I have no desire to learn film - At least in an in depth sense. Still getting my head around digital.
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post #19984 of 29551
Bronica -- Medium-format camera manufacturer

535 -- Purchase price

220 -- film format, same 6cm wide film as 120 but without backing paper and twice as many shots. Nearly obsolete, which is a damn shame.
post #19985 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxrabid93 View Post

Would it be possible for me to meter a scene with my 5Dc, and use the settings on the Bessa II? The Bessa II has a 105mm lens on it, and for a 6x9 camera, the 35mm equivalent is 45mm. Could i just slap on my 50mm lens on my 5Dc and be fine metering like that?

Yes, absolutely, but it's sort of impractical because carrying another camera is a lot of lost bag space and weight. If you're going to use the 5Dc to meter, you can chimp the exposure if you want, but you'll become more proficient if you don't after a roll or two, and then you can think about buying a hand-held meter.

edit: I should mention, though, that using spot metering instead of evaluative will be more accurate since the frame area will be slightly different. Use spot, hit your highs lows and mids in the frame, do a little math and test it.
Edited by sub50hz - 3/24/12 at 7:14pm
post #19986 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

Yes, absolutely, but it's sort of impractical because carrying another camera is a lot of lost bag space and weight. If you're going to use the 5Dc to meter, you can chimp the exposure if you want, but you'll become more proficient if you don't after a roll or two, and then you can think about buying a hand-held meter.
edit: I should mention, though, that using spot metering instead of evaluative will be more accurate since the frame area will be slightly different. Use spot, hit your highs lows and mids in the frame, do a little math and test it.

Sounds good. And ya, i am figuring to buy a proper meter soon anyways. I would just use my 5Dc for now to test out the Bessa II and see how it's shots come out. So can i just transfer over the exposure setting exactly? Say it is at ISO 400. The 5Dc is at f/8 and 1/200s and meters "correctly." Can i just use those exact settings in the Bessa II?

Also, say i spot meter the highlights at 1/400s, the shadows at 1/100s, and the mids at 1/200s. Should i just average them and shoot 1/200s?
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post #19987 of 29551
Depends on what you want the image to look like. That's a pretty narrow range of contrast, and if you're shooting print film you could probably shoot at any of those speeds in a situation like that and get a usable exposure. You'll have to try and learn Zone or just guestimate based on how much detail you want in shadows or highlights.
post #19988 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

Depends on what you want the image to look like. That's a pretty narrow range of contrast, and if you're shooting print film you could probably shoot at any of those speeds in a situation like that and get a usable exposure. You'll have to try and learn Zone or just guestimate based on how much detail you want in shadows or highlights.

Ya, only a stop apart (highlights-mids-darks each) would be a narrow range of contrast. That was just for example though.

Oh gosh, zone. I was looking into that more earlier. Seems pretty complicated/confusing and like it would take a while to actually use/setup for scenes. I bet i could eventually get the hang of it, but it might take a while...

I'm just putting a roll of 120 Ilford XP2 Super 400 through the Bessa II to see how the shots come out.
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post #19989 of 29551
Decided to test my Variable ND filter for clarity, because people complained about blurriness with the filter. Canon EOS Rebel T3 w/ kit lens @ 55mm, f/5.6, 1/200th shutter (I think) (because I couldn't hold it steady to save my life), $2 dollah bill

No filter:
400

ND set to low (minimum starts to get darker wth.gif ):
400

High, because "max" could block out the sun from 50 feet away:
400

Conclusion: Haven't tested any landscape shots or anything, but I'm thinking darker > sharp lines more indistinguishable, darker > AF has a harder time. So reviewers got a defective one or don't know what they're talking about
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post #19990 of 29551
Test it in the sun. These variable ND filters work by sandwiching two parallel polarizers. When they are aligned, the light will be filtered by the first then relatively unaffected by the second filter since it's already been filtered. As you rotate towards 90 degrees out of phase, the incoming light gets filtered by the first, then again, in a different orientation by the second, which causes very little light to be allowed through. If this doesn't make sense to you, think of it this way: you have two discs, each with an identical long rectangular slot in it. If you place them on top of each other so the slots are parallel, the hole will be the size of the rectangle. If you start rotating them, the effective size of the hole will get smaller and smaller until they are perpendicular to each other.

Anyway, on to my original point. The biggest problem with these is that sunlight is polarized, which can cause unwanted effects, especially if you use wider lenses. Also, the stacking of (usually poor quality) filters can cause glare/reflections, which will usually be apparent as reduced contrast, but in more extreme cases, visible reflections can be seen.


These are just things specific to that type of filter. The normal problems like poor-quality glass/coatings, flare, mechanical vignetting, etc. still apply, especially given that this is basically two filters stacked on each other.
Edited by foothead - 3/24/12 at 10:43pm
 
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