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[Official] OCN Camera Thread - Page 2076

post #20751 of 29551
Stop leaving chat without saying anything dammit. I will respond. Eventually.
post #20752 of 29551
Nobody wants to hear about your lens "fixing" methods.

P.S. I will be to chatters soonish, out to eat.
post #20753 of 29551
Hey. Anyone here no a good cheap camera that will take good pics for my computer log? A lot of you have great photos in your build logs, mine look like crap. Please help. Thanks! biggrin.gif
 
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post #20754 of 29551
How cheap? Equipment only matters so much. It still depends on the skill of the photographer.
    
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post #20755 of 29551
100 dollars worth of Canon P+S and CHDK would probably do it.
post #20756 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

100 dollars worth of Canon P+S and CHDK would probably do it.

never new hacks existed for canon powershots tongue.gif
trying this on my brothers g11 now ..

...

oh man... i dont have a card reader :|
Edited by boogschd - 5/24/12 at 10:26pm
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post #20757 of 29551
The 'double the focal length' argument usually goes for DSLRs where hand-holding the camera and trying to keep it still to avoid motion blur becomes an issue due to size and weight. It's a guide line, not a rule (I've gotten shots down to 1/10 of a second on a full sized DSLR with 70-200 hand held to come out sharp, but it's not normal and isn't to be expected). Usually it doesn't quite apply to smaller cameras, but I know people that still like to use it just to be safe, and again, it only should be referred to when hand holding (if you set the camera down on a tripod or on a level surface, for example, don't worry about it).

As far as your question about f/2.8 vs f/8... you need to read up about aperture and depth of field. The FAQs we have here will get you started very well on it, but in short, re-check your f/2.8 photo for what you actually focused on (looks like this might have been the power button) - that appears sharper than the corner that you chose to highlight in the photo. That's because you're using a very large aperture, which creates a small depth of field (area of the image which is in focus, most easily put). The F/8 image is a smaller aperture, and much more of the image is going to be sharp, at the sacrifice of amount of light that got let in. At larger (smaller numbers, like f/2.8) apertures, you can run into different optical issues too like chromatic aberration (most evident along the far edge of the top screen of the DS - looks blueish in the above shot). This too gets corrected as you close down your aperture and is most common when you reach the largest apertures of the lens you're shooting with.

Your last couple of statements (specifically, the one about what happen when you're not in optimal lighting and have to leave ISO 100-400 and f/8) really indicates that you need to actually learn the basics of shutter speed, aperture and ISO, and how they all pertain to exposure and image quality. Again, the faqs here will get you started, and we can answer any more specific questions once you have a better understanding.
Edited by MistaBernie - 5/25/12 at 5:09am
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post #20758 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by dudemanppl View Post

Stop leaving chat without saying anything dammit. I will respond. Eventually.

my dad kept turning the computer off every time i walked away for a few minutes...
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post #20759 of 29551
i see no major chromatic aberrations. only think i see is blown out highlights in the white parts of each picture.

i see slight purple fringing on the top photo after staring at it for a while and looking for it. nothing that seriously ruins these images that seem not quite properly exposed on my screen.

what m42 lenses are you shooting with that are producing results that you are not happy with. i think that your disappointment is more from user error than equipment error
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post #20760 of 29551
D7000 automatically corrects CA, which is probably why you never noticed it before.
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