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post #21911 of 29551
Yes yes yes. Got the EE-S. Looking into a magnifying eyepiece, any suggestions.
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post #21912 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlankThis View Post

Yes yes yes. Got the EE-S. Looking into a magnifying eyepiece, any suggestions.

I'll check when home, but I have one of the rectangular Nikon magnifiying eyepieces (DK-17M, IIRC) that works on Canon bodies. If I still have it, just paypal me 10 bucks and it's yours.
post #21913 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prpntblr95 View Post

High iso's can ruin picture quality, therefore better lighting can help by requiring a lower iso therefore making the photo quality better. thumb.gif

Now a days, the definition of high ISO is somewhat subjective. I have a feeling you're not going to be printing 20x30s of high school sports, so most of what you're going to be doing is going to be web based/etc. In those cases, shooting at 1600 isn't a problem at all (especially with post processing, if grain really does actually affect your images).

The thing you're forgetting is, lowering your ISO so you don't have grain doesn't mean anything if you shooting indoor sports at 1/60-1/125th of a second... you're still going to get motion in your images (which sometimes people want, but alot of times people prefer stopping the action). The original point was, you need a faster shutter speed to freeze action, and bumping your ISO to catch it is plenty fine. Catching a somewhat useable image is infinitely better than not bothering to try or missing it because you're trying to get the ideal exposure, because in most cases you can usually fix it after the fact.
Edited by MistaBernie - 10/4/12 at 11:45am
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post #21914 of 29551
^ that and the fact that a properly exposed high ISO shot will generally have less noticeable noise in it versus a poorly exposed lower iso shot. i would rather have a solid exposure at ISO 4000 than be 2 or more stops under exposed because i want my iso at a lower value. but sacrificing shutter speed because you dont want to shoot high ISO is the killer in most usable sports photos. its ok if the ball has motion blur because it gives the photo the sense of action and excitement. but if the player in your photo is moving so fast their their arms and legs are blurred from motion then you have a not so professional looking shot
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post #21915 of 29551
I can't believe this is even a conversation in this thread.
post #21916 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

I can't believe this is even a conversation in this thread.

Pipe down, this is useful information he is saying.
post #21917 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prpntblr95 View Post

Pipe down, this is useful information he is saying.

huh? useful information?

this is common knowledge lol

pick up a copy of sports illustrated and take notes
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post #21918 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prpntblr95 View Post

Pipe down, this is useful information he is saying.

Useful for who? The regulars in this thread are experienced enough to the point where this is a redundant conversation, sparked only by your ridiculous assertion that such slow shutter speeds are acceptable for sports shooting.
post #21919 of 29551
Just picked up one of these today http://www.prophotographygear.com/pixel-tw282-wireless-timer-remote-control-fr-canon-5d-30d-20d-p-145.html

Awesome product. So much cheaper than the Canon equivalent and the wireless is freaking powerful. I was almost 100 feet away and on the other side of a concrete wall with no problems.
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post #21920 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlankThis View Post

Just picked up one of these today http://www.prophotographygear.com/pixel-tw282-wireless-timer-remote-control-fr-canon-5d-30d-20d-p-145.html
Awesome product. So much cheaper than the Canon equivalent and the wireless is freaking powerful. I was almost 100 feet away and on the other side of a concrete wall with no problems.

How's the build quality?
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