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[Official] OCN Camera Thread - Page 36

post #351 of 29551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [PWN]Schubie View Post
hmmm, not saying that isnt true, but then nikons would be as well, nikon uses sonys sensors, thats why the d300 was delayed because sony couldn't get enough of them to nikon fast enough.
so the only thing that would make a nikon better then a sony for noise would be the way it is processed, but i would think that the two would have very similar performance.
That's right, they may have the same manufacturer for the sensor, but Nikon has it's own in house image processor - Nikon EXPEED, Canon uses the Digic III, and so on. It's just like computer memory: some brands use Micron chips, some use Samsung, but the way it's implemented is the difference.

Lenses are also what separates companies. Canon has a reputation for having some of the best lenses, and so does Nikon.
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post #352 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneTomorrow View Post
They always have 100% crops for all ISO levels, redeye tests, barrel distortion tests, etc.
Just to clear things up, red eye is not camera related, but flash rather.

I can explain if anyone is interested.
post #353 of 29551
go a head u forget there are noobs here (me)
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post #354 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecoyd1 View Post
Just to clear things up, red eye is not camera related, but flash rather.

I can explain if anyone is interested.
Semantics, yes, I know that. Many SLRs have pop-up speed lights so they are part of the camera. A lot features beside those that have to directly with the optics are tested: the menu system/GUI, button layout, weight, battery life.

I rarely use flash anyhow, so not much of an issue for me.
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post #355 of 29551
Red eye happens when the flash is too close to the lens, as with many popup flashes and on camera flashes.

The light somehow reflects off the iris and comes up red on the sensor/film.

Tips for avoiding red eye:
  • Mount the flash higher above the lens. This is why you see many wedding photographers use flash brackets; they extend the flash way above the lens in order not to get the bad reflections.
  • Make flash a non-primary light source. If you do get red eye, it can be simply from the fact that the flash is where all the light is coming from. Flash is better used when it helps balance the light and is not the main source. For example, outside, you would use flash to fill in shadows on a face while the sun provides the primary light.
  • Fix it in Photoshop/GIMP.
post #356 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecoyd1 View Post
Red eye happens when the flash is too close to the lens, as with many popup flashes and on camera flashes.

The light somehow reflects off the iris and comes up red on the sensor/film.

Tips for avoiding red eye:
  • Mount the flash higher above the lens. This is why you see many wedding photographers use flash brackets; they extend the flash way above the lens in order not to get the bad reflections.
  • Make flash a non-primary light source. If you do get red eye, it can be simply from the fact that the flash is where all the light is coming from. Flash is better used when it helps balance the light and is not the main source. For example, outside, you would use flash to fill in shadows on a face while the sun provides the primary light.
  • Fix it in Photoshop/GIMP.
The reason the eyes are red is because a flash is used in a dark environment, which cause the human pupil to dilate, so when the flash fires it actually reflects off of the retina, all the way in the back of the eye, giving its red color.

My integrated speedlight automatically pulses rapidly - thereby constricting the pupil - before firing so I've never had a red eye problem. But as you say, a flash mounted higher doesn't flash directly into the eye so there is less red eye as a result.
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post #357 of 29551
D40 18-135 nikor and less than average skillz

    
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post #358 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneTomorrow View Post
The thing about Pentax, Olympus, Sony and Panasonic DSLRs is that they aren't generally considered "professional" DSLRs. Many of them are quite capable and rival the big two brands (Nikon and Canon) in quality, but if you look at any professional photographer's webpage or ask one, they only use Canon or Nikon.
Yeah I agree, I think it's got a lot more to do with what's actually "under the hood" and how it performs than what the badge on the front says. I think that's true with everything though. A brand can indicate different qualities about a product, but that's not always the case. A lot of the time, marketing and consumer perception play a big role in making a brand popular.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneTomorrow View Post
So, always check out reviews. The two best and most in depth review sites are www.dcresource.com and www.dpreview.com they examine cameras inside and out - literally. They always have 100% crops for all ISO levels, redeye tests, barrel distortion tests, etc.
Yeah, I've been doing a bit of review reading. They're a great resource for making an informed choice. I also like trustedreviews.com who do a lot of reviews for different products, including cameras, which I think are pretty well done.

I've got a few months yet before (hopefully) I'll be in the financial position to make a DSLR purchase, but I think I'll probably want to spend no more than around £1200 (hopefully) when the time comes, including lenses. I like to take macro shots, so I guess I would prioritise a macro lens, followed by a lens which encompasses good wide angle capability, with moderate zoom. I don't really make use of zoom much to be honest. Even though my FZ50 has the 12x zoom I hardly ever use more than 6x or so. Occasionally I might shoot an animal at a distance, without wanting to disturb it, but that happens very rarely as I'm more inclined to shoot insects and plants (and occasionally people) if I'm going to shoot something that's alive .

Could anybody suggest some reasonable lenses for me? Keep in mind I may well go for a camera from either Canon, Nikon, Pentax or Olympus, so lenses that would fit any of those would be good. I've had a brief look at the Sigma 105mm for a macro lens. Any thoughts? Also, I saw this Sigma 18mm-200mm lens, which sounds good for me, because it gives some good wide-angle capability, with a reasonable amount of zoom as well, in the one lens.

If I did get the K20D body (£650 now), plus the 105mm Macro (£220 now), plus the 18mm-200mm (£250 now) I'd be spending £1120, which would fall right into the top end of my price range and give me what I think I want. Presumably I could keep the 18mm-200mm on the camera most of the time and only swap over when I want to do macro shots?

Anyway as I said, I don't know a great deal about lenses, so any input would be appreciated! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitefro View Post
D40 18-135 nikor and less than average skillz
I think those two shots are really nice. I love the scale and the clouds in the mountain shot and the colours and the crispness of the man and dog shot. It's really nice! The only suggestion I'd make, is that you straighten the horizon on the man and dog shot (unless it was at an angle on purpose!!) .

What do you think?



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post #359 of 29551
Wow, I just found this thread so here are a few pictures I've taken recently. Hmm some of these look darker for some reason, but regardless .... oops they might be a bit large
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post #360 of 29551
hmm, it may be because im at work, but i cant see any of your images GA, i can see all the other ones...
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