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post #4621 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danylu View Post
Yes like that, but every photo I see seems to have the DoF perfect so that the subject is 100% in focus, I'm wondering as to whether telephoto (or a different type of lens) makes this attribute easier to obtain or something else because I find that I have to stop down and give it a few gos before I can get the same effect with my 35mm 1.8. About the macro answer, I doubt that because what I'm describing is kind of like the pop in the soccer shots a few pages back.

Speaking of DoF, for those of you with fast standard primes, do you ever find yourself needing to use AF Continuous to get the subject in focus or is my technique epic fail?
AF-C is a better idea anyways, unless you want to re-half-press the release every time something moves.
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post #4622 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danylu View Post
Yes like that, but every photo I see seems to have the DoF perfect so that the subject is 100% in focus, I'm wondering as to whether telephoto (or a different type of lens) makes this attribute easier to obtain or something else because I find that I have to stop down and give it a few gos before I can get the same effect with my 35mm 1.8. About the macro answer, I doubt that because what I'm describing is kind of like the pop in the soccer shots a few pages back.

Speaking of DoF, for those of you with fast standard primes, do you ever find yourself needing to use AF Continuous to get the subject in focus or is my technique epic fail?
A good number of lenses are not very sharp when shot wide open. Usually you have to pay top dollar for lenses that are sharp wide open. Also as you get closer to the subject your DoF decreases dramatically. If you are within a couple of feet of your subject and shooting at a large aperture like f/2 or larger, your DoF could be an inch or less. Therefore it can be rather difficult to get tack sharp shots with your intended target in focus perfectly.

If the subject is stationary then AF Single or One-Shot modes are fine. If the subject is moving then your continuous focusing modes are probably better. A lot depends on your camera too, the type of AF module it has.
post #4623 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danylu View Post
Yes like that, but every photo I see seems to have the DoF perfect so that the subject is 100% in focus, I'm wondering as to whether telephoto (or a different type of lens) makes this attribute easier to obtain or something else because I find that I have to stop down and give it a few gos before I can get the same effect with my 35mm 1.8. About the macro answer, I doubt that because what I'm describing is kind of like the pop in the soccer shots a few pages back.

Speaking of DoF, for those of you with fast standard primes, do you ever find yourself needing to use AF Continuous to get the subject in focus or is my technique epic fail?
When trying to precisely place you DOF, I find manual focus to be of great use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quantum Man View Post
A good number of lenses are not very sharp when shot wide open. Usually you have to pay top dollar for lenses that are sharp wide open. Also as you get closer to the subject your DoF decreases dramatically. If you are within a couple of feet of your subject and shooting at a large aperture like f/2 or larger, your DoF could be an inch or less. Therefore it can be rather difficult to get tack sharp shots with your intended target in focus perfectly.

If the subject is stationary then AF Single or One-Shot modes are fine. If the subject is moving then your continuous focusing modes are probably better. A lot depends on your camera too, the type of AF module it has.
Right, which is why having a longer prime can be useful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tK FuRY View Post
holy crap HUGE picture! At least we now have auto resize

DC lenses?

Actually, that picture looks like any standard macro lens with a shallow DOF. (Someone more knowledgeable correct me)

Another example of what might be what you're talking about?
It doesn't have to be a macro lens, just a prime with a large max aperture. In fact, macro lenses don't usually have larger max apertures than f/2.8 or so because the DOF at close working distances would be too small. The photo he posted is an 85mm f/1.8 @ f/1.8.
Edited by GoneTomorrow - 8/29/09 at 8:29am
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post #4624 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneTomorrow View Post
When trying to precisely place you DOF, I find manual focus to be of great use.



Right, which is why having a longer prime can be useful.



It doesn't have to be a macro lens, just a prime with a large max aperture. In fact, macro lenses don't usually have larger max apertures than f/2.8 or so because the DOF at close working distances would be too small. The photo he posted is an 85mm f/1.8 @ f/1.8.

Forgot about EXIF
post #4625 of 29551
Well I think I'm ready to be asked if I can be placed on the list

Got my Cannon EOS Rebel T1i with the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS kit lens. Finally got in a Cannon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS lens in today.

A new flash is the next on my list along with a good tri-pod. Slowly by surely I'm getting items I need. Then comes the better lens after that.

Finally using all manual mode and manual focus, and wow I am blown away by the control you have. I'm not sure I even like auto mode anymore

But yet full auto does have it's moments of awesomeness
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post #4626 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7racer View Post
Finally using all manual mode and manual focus, and wow I am blown away by the control you have. I'm not sure I even like auto mode anymore

But yet full auto does have it's moments of awesomeness
I've had my D300 for a little over a year now, My D3 for about 8 months and I've never used either in full auto. Manual, and Apeture priority seem to work best for me.

As for autofocus, I live by it unless I'm using an MF lens, or shooting very close macro. Both Nikon and Canon have quite good autofocus systems, some lenses require fine tuning but the camera will remember these adjustments for each lens, (I think up to 20). Given sufficient light and contrast, the camera usually focuses better than me and certainly much quicker.

I guess I might use full auto if I handed someone who had no experience with DSLR's my camera and said "here, go take some pictures".
    
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post #4627 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7racer View Post
Finally using all manual mode and manual focus, and wow I am blown away by the control you have.
I don't see the point in that. And why not just use Av? You should try it, it'll speed up the shot.
post #4628 of 29551
About manual focus, well I ran into more than a few situations where it focused the fore most part perfect but when I wanted a full frame focus dof it was impossible with AF.

For the most part like when I'm at the drag strip and what not for sure. But it seems I can get more in focus manually than with auto in certain key situations.

I guess I should have worded that differently.

I guess the way to say it is so I can control where and what I want focused. Example coming in a min. (and I might add, I am still learning and grasping much)

This is with AF, and keep in mind this is just me playing around though.


And MF, was able to get the foreground more in focus. I know not the best example. I know what I'm trying to say in my head just don't know how to say it.


Also, these were taken with the kit 18-55mm lens, just getting started with my 55-250mm lens.
Edited by rx7racer - 8/29/09 at 4:13pm
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post #4629 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7racer View Post
About manual focus, well I ran into more than a few situations where it focused the fore most part perfect but when I wanted a full frame focus dof it was impossible with AF.

For the most part like when I'm at the drag strip and what not for sure. But it seems I can get more in focus manually than with auto in certain key situations.

I guess I should have worded that differently.

I guess the way to say it is so I can control where and what I want focused. Example coming in a min. (and I might add, I am still learning and grasping much)

This is with AF, and keep in mind this is just me playing around though.
And MF, was able to get the foreground more in focus. I know not the best example. I know what I'm trying to say in my head just don't know how to say it.


Also, these were taken with the kit 18-55mm lens, just getting started with my 55-250mm lens.
You need to read your manual, but with Nikon cameras, you can move the focus and/or metering point around the frame to where you want it. It doesn't have to be in the center. This will allow you to choose what part of the frame you want to focus and meter on.

All modern DSLR's should AF just as good as a person can MF if not better or there's somethimg amiss with the body or the lens.
    
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post #4630 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7racer View Post
About manual focus, well I ran into more than a few situations where it focused the fore most part perfect but when I wanted a full frame focus dof it was impossible with AF.

For the most part like when I'm at the drag strip and what not for sure. But it seems I can get more in focus manually than with auto in certain key situations.

I guess I should have worded that differently.

I guess the way to say it is so I can control where and what I want focused. Example coming in a min. (and I might add, I am still learning and grasping much)

Also, these were taken with the kit 18-55mm lens, just getting started with my 55-250mm lens.
Remember that you can select your AF points. For those shots you would've just had to select the bottom AF point and it would've focused on the front beam.

The only times I MF is when I'm wide open or shooting macros. But MF is a great way to visually observe how the DOF moves. And wean yourself from full auto mode altogether and explore the other modes. Aperture priority is pretty useful when you know you're only going to shoot in one aperture (like f/8, the sharpest aperture for most lenses), Shutter priority is great when you really need to freeze action (like when I shoot skaters), and Manual I use for more mixed situations when I need control over the shutter and aperture.
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