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post #501 of 29539
500th post!

had to.

OT: Those look more like just shadow balanced or something, and their not really "true" HDR. Now that I think about it, Nikon has a similar feature called D-Lighting where you can manually lift the shadows or brighten the image. You can also add filter effects, crop, ect in camera.
Edited by ecoyd1 - 5/19/08 at 8:09pm
post #502 of 29539
Highly-annoyed, I suspect that the flickr pics you posted above are miss-tagged. It appears to me that both are WAYYY too vibrant to not be HDR.

On another note, does the 20D sport a full HDR on a chip sensor, or is it just the Expanded Dynamic range DPreview is talking about? What is full HDR again, something like 32 bit color right?
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post #503 of 29539
Quote:
Originally Posted by max302 View Post
On another note, does the 20D sport a full HDR on a chip sensor, or is it just the Expanded Dynamic range DPreview is talking about? What is full HDR again, something like 32 bit color right?
I think your correct.
post #504 of 29539
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecoyd1 View Post
500th post!

had to.

OT: Those look more like just shadow balanced or something, and their not really "true" HDR. Now that I think about it, Nikon has a similar feature called D-Lighting where you can manually lift the shadows or brighten the image. You can also add filter effects, crop, ect in camera.
Agreed, it's a nifty feature, but not what I would call HDR. Nikon's D-Lighting feature is right on the money for a comparison and probably a competing feature.

Here's an awesome HDR shot I found (too big to display):

http://www.rnrh.net/images/blog/hdr-..._forgotten.jpg
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post #505 of 29539
I might be doing this wrong, but I made another attempt at this. I haven't done this outside yet but anyways. I took two shots, one under-exposed and one over-exposed. I then used "Merge to HDR" in CS3 to merge both photos into one. This is the result.

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post #506 of 29539
For a good HDR shot you can't just shoot in different exposures and hope for the best. You kind of need a situation in which theres a lot of difference in light. Backlit scenes are awesome for this because you can capture the lit up parts in the underexposed shot and the dark parts in the overexposed. HDR combines these together to show them both without the shot being over or underexposed. Excellent example is shooting towards a sunny window in a dark room. If you do standard exposure (metering half for the room, half for the window) you'll see a dark room with a slightly overexposed window. If you try to expose for the window you'll get a very dark room with no detail. Shoot 3 exposures of the room and combine them for an HDR shot which will show detail in the room, detail outside the window and an overall increase in color saturation, depending on what you prefer.

I use Photomatix Pro for my HDR shots and my 350D's exposure bracketing function at +/- 2 stops. If you've got a newish Canon DSLR you should be able to do this too. It's in the second page of the menu under "AEB" on mine, probably named the same but in a different location on others. Bring the 3 points so that one is in the middle and the other two are at +2 and -2. First shot you shoot will be normal exposure, then overexposure, then underexposure. If you shoot with a remote it will take all 3 automatically. Obviously you want to use a tripod for this because the 3 images need to lineup perfectly.

Anyway this picture here illustrates what I was trying to get across.



In the original the room was detailed somewhat but the windows were overexposed and you couldn't see the buildings outside of them. I shot 3 exposures at +/- 2, merged them using Photomatix and actually toned down the saturation a bit (it was really whacky at default). The result is VERY close to what the real life scene looks like.
    
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post #507 of 29539
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarton View Post
For a good HDR shot you can't just shoot in different exposures and hope for the best. You kind of need a situation in which theres a lot of difference in light. Backlit scenes are awesome for this because you can capture the lit up parts in the underexposed shot and the dark parts in the overexposed. HDR combines these together to show them both without the shot being over or underexposed. Excellent example is shooting towards a sunny window in a dark room. If you do standard exposure (metering half for the room, half for the window) you'll see a dark room with a slightly overexposed window. If you try to expose for the window you'll get a very dark room with no detail. Shoot 3 exposures of the room and combine them for an HDR shot which will show detail in the room, detail outside the window and an overall increase in color saturation, depending on what you prefer.

I use Photomatix Pro for my HDR shots and my 350D's exposure bracketing function at +/- 2 stops. If you've got a newish Canon DSLR you should be able to do this too. It's in the second page of the menu under "AEB" on mine, probably named the same but in a different location on others. Bring the 3 points so that one is in the middle and the other two are at +2 and -2. First shot you shoot will be normal exposure, then overexposure, then underexposure. If you shoot with a remote it will take all 3 automatically. Obviously you want to use a tripod for this because the 3 images need to lineup perfectly.

Anyway this picture here illustrates what I was trying to get across.



In the original the room was detailed somewhat but the windows were overexposed and you couldn't see the buildings outside of them. I shot 3 exposures at +/- 2, merged them using Photomatix and actually toned down the saturation a bit (it was really whacky at default). The result is VERY close to what the real life scene looks like.
Most DSLRs have a "bracketing" tab that will take under/over exposed for you.

Nice shot. So you metered the inside of the room or the windows?
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post #508 of 29539
I metered for the room since it was rather bright and detailed already. There was a couple of windows beside and a bright hallway behind me that was lighting it up nicely.
    
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post #509 of 29539
i just picked up a canon powershot SD750 and i'm hoping to learn a few things
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post #510 of 29539
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarton View Post
For a good HDR shot you can't just shoot in different exposures and hope for the best. You kind of need a situation in which theres a lot of difference in light. Backlit scenes are awesome for this because you can capture the lit up parts in the underexposed shot and the dark parts in the overexposed. HDR combines these together to show them both without the shot being over or underexposed. Excellent example is shooting towards a sunny window in a dark room. If you do standard exposure (metering half for the room, half for the window) you'll see a dark room with a slightly overexposed window. If you try to expose for the window you'll get a very dark room with no detail. Shoot 3 exposures of the room and combine them for an HDR shot which will show detail in the room, detail outside the window and an overall increase in color saturation, depending on what you prefer.

I use Photomatix Pro for my HDR shots and my 350D's exposure bracketing function at +/- 2 stops. If you've got a newish Canon DSLR you should be able to do this too. It's in the second page of the menu under "AEB" on mine, probably named the same but in a different location on others. Bring the 3 points so that one is in the middle and the other two are at +2 and -2. First shot you shoot will be normal exposure, then overexposure, then underexposure. If you shoot with a remote it will take all 3 automatically. Obviously you want to use a tripod for this because the 3 images need to lineup perfectly.

Anyway this picture here illustrates what I was trying to get across.

In the original the room was detailed somewhat but the windows were overexposed and you couldn't see the buildings outside of them. I shot 3 exposures at +/- 2, merged them using Photomatix and actually toned down the saturation a bit (it was really whacky at default). The result is VERY close to what the real life scene looks like.

Nice HDR shot. So far I have been doing my HDRs with only a single RAW image and the results are so-so, it depends on the shot. The next time I'm out shooting I'm going to try bracketing shots instead.
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