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post #8451 of 29551
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (no in-lens focus motor) or Nikkor 12-24 f/4 (has in-lens focus motor)?

will be used on D5000 body (no in body focus motor). got real-estate photography.

should i get an ext flash too like a sb600? i know i cant use in-body flash cuz it will create a shadow..

i dont mind having to PP pictures.. as long as i can get the wide angle shot i want.. i understand at lower focal ranges, the lines will be kinda bulged.

and for clarification from what people has told me.. when doing super wide angle photography... the focus is usually at infinity? that makes sense for like landscape or scenic but does that apply to photography in like a room too? was going off this site that someone on this thread posted about DoF or something and i tried simulating numbers.. didnt quite understand... one of the numbers was like 900 something ft when i set it to like 7ft.. if i changed the distance of the "object" like 8 ft, it goes to infinity.. does that mean when focusing, ill be slightly under infinity then?
Edited by iandroo888 - 9/18/10 at 9:04pm
 
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post #8452 of 29551
I don't get why your question matters. Shouldn't you be focusing based on what actually puts it all in focus and not what your numbers say should be in focus?

Also, I'd be interested in this link.
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post #8453 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearjock View Post
How's your metering set?? Matrix, spot, cw??
i.e. if you're spot metering on something bright, iso will bump down and you'll be u.e.

If you need a fast telephoto, buy one. There's lots of good ones out there.
I was trying everything. Matrix was by far the worst, and spot was a bit better. Center ended up working pretty well.

While I need/want a fast tele, I can't afford one.
post #8454 of 29551
i have no idea what your asking. but if infinity is at 3ft anything 3ft and pass will be in focus. in real-estate photography i believe you want the widest possible lens, and the 14-24 (IMO) just isnt wide enough on aps-c.

if you are worried about focus, then bring a tripod along and buy the 10-20 sigma. its slower then the tokina but it has HSM.

and i wouldnt bother with a single smart expensive flash, and instead just get 2 cheaper dumb flashes and fire off camera.
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post #8455 of 29551
Quote:
Originally Posted by mz-n10 View Post
i have no idea what your asking. but if infinity is at 3ft anything 3ft and pass will be in focus. in real-estate photography i believe you want the widest possible lens, and the 14-24 (IMO) just isnt wide enough on aps-c.

if you are worried about focus, then bring a tripod along and buy the 10-20 sigma. its slower then the tokina but it has HSM.

and i wouldnt bother with a single smart expensive flash, and instead just get 2 cheaper dumb flashes and fire off camera.
Can't control off-camera on the D5000. Unless you buy optical slaves.
post #8456 of 29551
radio, optical, pc-sync (assuming there is one) it doesnt matter as long as the flash trips.
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post #8457 of 29551
wouldnt firing off camera require like a commander thing on the body ?

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

if subject distance is 7ft

it says

Depth of field
Near limit 3.51 ft
Far limit 913.1 ft
Total 909.6 ft

so anything from 3.51ft - 913.1ft is in focus?
Edited by iandroo888 - 9/19/10 at 1:18am
 
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post #8458 of 29551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iandroo888 View Post
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (no in-lens focus motor) or Nikkor 12-24 f/4 (has in-lens focus motor)?

will be used on D5000 body (no in body focus motor). got real-estate photography.

should i get an ext flash too like a sb600? i know i cant use in-body flash cuz it will create a shadow..

i dont mind having to PP pictures.. as long as i can get the wide angle shot i want.. i understand at lower focal ranges, the lines will be kinda bulged.

and for clarification from what people has told me.. when doing super wide angle photography... the focus is usually at infinity? that makes sense for like landscape or scenic but does that apply to photography in like a room too? was going off this site that someone on this thread posted about DoF or something and i tried simulating numbers.. didnt quite understand... one of the numbers was like 900 something ft when i set it to like 7ft.. if i changed the distance of the "object" like 8 ft, it goes to infinity.. does that mean when focusing, ill be slightly under infinity then?
I think you're worrying about the wrong things. Consider the lenses from their price point, IQ, FL and aperture range. As I said, a non-f/2.8 lens isn't necessarily a deal-breaker so long as it isn't pitch black inside. With average interior lighting, I've managed fine using the 10-22 f/3.5-4.5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mz-n10 View Post
i have no idea what your asking. but if infinity is at 3ft anything 3ft and pass will be in focus. in real-estate photography i believe you want the widest possible lens, and the 14-24 (IMO) just isnt wide enough on aps-c.

if you are worried about focus, then bring a tripod along and buy the 10-20 sigma. its slower then the tokina but it has HSM.

and i wouldnt bother with a single smart expensive flash, and instead just get 2 cheaper dumb flashes and fire off camera.
I think 14mm is plenty wide enough on APS-C, having used that FL quite a bit both for interior and landscape work. It's a nice compromise in terms of minimizing distortion types, which are quite extreme when venturing to 10mm (or less), not to mention other aspects of IQ. On the Canon 10-22, 14mm was the sweet spot IMO.
Edited by GoneTomorrow - 9/19/10 at 9:03am
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post #8459 of 29551
I say, shoot with a tripod. I don't think you want to be shooting wide open anyway. If you can stop it down a bit that simplifies the shot a lot.

At 14mm at f/11 and a focusing distance of 3 feet, everything from 1.5ft to infinity is going to be in focus. That's plenty. You could loosen that up quite a bit and still be fine.
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post #8460 of 29551
true. reason why im going with a SWA lens is because want a shot wider than 90 degrees if shot from a corner of a room, can show the adjacent walls. believe 14mm is at 90 degrees.

the matter of worry for me is if i can use a lens without an AF motor or not.. if its not simple enough to AF manually, then ill consider only ones with a AF motor. i have MF'ed lenses before but not for like this type of photography... and it was mostly outdoors with sunlight.
 
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