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post #41 of 62
I have 3 12" Diamond audio D9's with 3 1500w Phoenix gold octane amps. And 500 w interior amp octane. I hit 143db
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post #42 of 62

Again, here is what 160db looks like.. Watch the camera move because of the air and sound forces coming from the car.

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post #43 of 62
Here is some pics of sbn @ daytona this past weekend.And my system in my son old scion tc when hit 141 db's.Im looking for the score card.
And if you know something about spl you would know the name of Alan Dante.
Im getting ready for this one soon.http://alltechsplcompetition.com/start.php
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post #44 of 62
okay im going to throw my 2 cents in.. first .. id like to say.. kicker solobaric subs are some of the best on the market.. 1 12inch L7 will smoke most anything else out there as far as quality of sound and DB.. easily crack 140db with just 1.. also like stated before you should really plan out the application of the system.. someone mentioned different brands.. personaly for a deck id go with a pioneer over anyone else.. yes even alpine.. ( i think they are crap.. sue me) you want a deck that has at least 3 sets ouf rca outs.. front.. rear and sub.. try to aim for anything that has 3volts or better on them.. 5 is nice.. 8 is overkill unless your drag racing.. next you gota wire the car proper.. dont go cheap if you pushing some major watts gotta go at least 4g or higher.. once you have your sub.. then get an amp.. its a lot easier to match an amp to a speaker then it is a speaker to an amp.. at least thats the way i feel about it.. screw what the max wattage is.. match up the RMS or continues power rating.. like someone said.. if you have a sub that is max watts 1500 but rms 750.. then get an amp that is 750-800 RMS most likly it will be a 2000watt amp or so.. its always better to go over powered and cut it back then it is to go under power.. most people dont understand that not enough power is worse then having to much power.. for subs its best to go with a class d mono block .. even if you have a dual voice coil sub.. if you have 2 subs that are dual voice coil.. you wire them in a way that will drop the ohms to match the amp and run it all as a mono setup.. trust me it will pound.. a really great site.. is www.the12volt.com this site will tell you what you need to know about making boxes and the different typs and applications.. it will tell you how to wire pretty much any setup.. and even show ya different ways to wire the speakers depending the ohm rating of each speaker and the total out put of the amp.. also .. believe it or not ebay is a great place to get car audio stuff.. tons of those whole in the wall car audio install shops are found all over the place and the deals are amazing...
    
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post #45 of 62
I will agree, Steve Meade is using a lot of woofer. However he's in a big SUV. I was in a little tiny Toyota Celica Hatch. Doesn't take NEARLY as much woofer to hit the high dB's.

And no I do not have proof. That car was wrecked before I had a chance to do any competition with it. They metered it for me in the store after it was installed, it reached 160.xx dB. If you don't believe me, well fine I could care less. I'm just telling you what I saw with my own eyes on my own car. I could care less since I don't have that car nor that system anymore $12,000 down the drain! Like I said, I don't care if you believe me or not. But look up the Pioneer Premier 5000SPL's. 3 of them in a 1990 Toyota Celica hatch, you better believe with enough juice those things crank out the dB's.
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post #46 of 62
I think that the main poster have a lot of information now.
And here is the real WR in spl 1 DD 99z18 and 4 7k stetsom ampshttp://forum.soundpressure.com/showt...ight=180db%27s.Im goin to run in my set up for the up comming competition 2 dd 9512g and 1 4 7k or a z1 in my truck.
And here is some of the real spl numbers from the pros.http://www.termpro.com/asp/competito...on=2007&Page=5.
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post #47 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
I will agree, Steve Meade is using a lot of woofer. However he's in a big SUV. I was in a little tiny Toyota Celica Hatch. Doesn't take NEARLY as much woofer to hit the high dB's.

And no I do not have proof. That car was wrecked before I had a chance to do any competition with it. They metered it for me in the store after it was installed, it reached 160.xx dB. If you don't believe me, well fine I could care less. I'm just telling you what I saw with my own eyes on my own car. I could care less since I don't have that car nor that system anymore $12,000 down the drain! Like I said, I don't care if you believe me or not. But look up the Pioneer Premier 5000SPL's. 3 of them in a 1990 Toyota Celica hatch, you better believe with enough juice those things crank out the dB's.
I bet it was on an AC, at the dash, windows cracked
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post #48 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trippen Out View Post
okay im going to throw my 2 cents in.. first .. id like to say.. kicker solobaric subs are some of the best on the market.. 1 12inch L7 will smoke most anything else out there as far as quality of sound and DB.. easily crack 140db with just 1.. also like stated before you should really plan out the application of the system.. someone mentioned different brands.. personaly for a deck id go with a pioneer over anyone else.. yes even alpine.. ( i think they are crap.. sue me) you want a deck that has at least 3 sets ouf rca outs.. front.. rear and sub.. try to aim for anything that has 3volts or better on them.. 5 is nice.. 8 is overkill unless your drag racing.. next you gota wire the car proper.. dont go cheap if you pushing some major watts gotta go at least 4g or higher.. once you have your sub.. then get an amp.. its a lot easier to match an amp to a speaker then it is a speaker to an amp.. at least thats the way i feel about it.. screw what the max wattage is.. match up the RMS or continues power rating.. like someone said.. if you have a sub that is max watts 1500 but rms 750.. then get an amp that is 750-800 RMS most likly it will be a 2000watt amp or so.. its always better to go over powered and cut it back then it is to go under power.. most people dont understand that not enough power is worse then having to much power.. for subs its best to go with a class d mono block .. even if you have a dual voice coil sub.. if you have 2 subs that are dual voice coil.. you wire them in a way that will drop the ohms to match the amp and run it all as a mono setup.. trust me it will pound.. a really great site.. is www.the12volt.com this site will tell you what you need to know about making boxes and the different typs and applications.. it will tell you how to wire pretty much any setup.. and even show ya different ways to wire the speakers depending the ohm rating of each speaker and the total out put of the amp.. also .. believe it or not ebay is a great place to get car audio stuff.. tons of those whole in the wall car audio install shops are found all over the place and the deals are amazing...
L7's, easily crack, I'll give you that. Square subs have a tendency to do that. Also you mention underpowering is worse than overpowering. Allow me to retort. So I'm jammin to Kenny Rodgers - The Gambler, and I'm pulling up to the drive thru window. In order for the Burger King babe to hear me, I have to turn down the volume. JESUS H IN HEAVEN SHOVE A LIGHTNING BOLT UP MY ASS CHRIST I'M UNDERPOWERING MY EQUIPMENT. I love how easy we get off topic when someone mentions car audio, and I love all the wrong information that comes out.
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post #49 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by packardhell1 View Post
I'd agree. If you haven't heard a good system before, 10" subs are good for hard, quick bass and are (usually) very responsive. 15" subs are good for low, long bass. 12" subs are a good sacrifice between the two - I think trance has some of each type of bass, but mostly hard-hitting.

A good 10"/12" sub, an appropriate box, and the right amount of power can make the bass feel like someone is punching you in the chest.

The kicker (no pun intended) is going to be finding what you want to buy - there are so many car audio parts/brands/components out there at so many different price points. Personally, I like to go with old and new. I'm a huge Orion and Rockford Fosgate fan (the old stuff, not the new), so when I went to build my first system in high school, I went used for the amp and subwoofer. I've since sold the system and am currently going without subs. I bought an old MTX Blue Thunder Pro amp for my mids/highs about 3 years ago, and it has served me well ever since.

These are the two components I had in high school:

Rockford 400x4 (when their amps rocked)...


+

Orion XTR sub...


I miss them! I shouldn't have sold them!!!!

EDIT: These aren't my pics, I don't have any pics of them in my Chevy Celebrity when I was in high school. Sorry.
With better quality speakers, you can have 18's sound as tight as a 10", and a 10 as boomy as an 18. Bigger sub = more cone area.
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post #50 of 62
Thread Starter 

This thread turned out better then I thought it would.
Thanks for all the help and opinions guys.
Once I decide what I'm gonna do I'll let you know.
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