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need to drill 1.25" holes.. what tool/drill bit?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
i need to drill two 1.25" holes in the top of my case (internal) in order to mount a 2x120mm in the roof. the material is what looks like about 1mm thick stainless steel. the holes will be placed on the black "t" marks. i went out and bought an inch and a quarter mandrel at the hardware store (pictured) but after talking to my friend who is an electrician, im not sure if this is the best tool for the job. hes taking a look for a better bit tomorrow. cant take the chance of tearing up the case. i plan on using the rubber gaskets that came with the case to the tubing will be protected. any suggestions?
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post #2 of 11
If your friend has an electrician's Knock Out Punch Set, ask to borrow it, that'll cut clean as possible!!

The hole saw that you obtained is for wood, you need one that has teeth like a hacksaw. Those are designed for cutting metal
post #3 of 11
Is it a BI metal hole saw? If you it should work well
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedFox911 View Post
Is it a BI metal hole saw? If you it should work well
yea its a BI metal hole saw. pilot bit keeps it centered but the big teeth look like they might cause some damage...
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post #5 of 11
use the hole saw. I've used one on several occasions to drill blow holes on cases and they do great jobs. just go slow and make sure you punch a pilot hole first.
    
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post #6 of 11
also, you might want to read my faq on case fans - link below in my sig ---
    
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post #7 of 11
you only need 2 1.25" holes for a dual rad? shouldn'd you use a 4.5" hole saw
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post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by MCBrown.CA View Post
yea its a BI metal hole saw. pilot bit keeps it centered but the big teeth look like they might cause some damage...
A knockout from your electrician buddy is your best option if you can. If not, that bit will do the job.

Here is a guide I whipped up for hole sawing. The wooden guide board is the key from my experience. I've used the technique on an aluminum case chassis with 1.75" bits and it worked like a charm.

If you're going to drill where those X's are markered on, that might be a bit tricky. It looks like you might be up on that curve a little bit. If you are going where those two pilot holes are, just go in from the other side and you should be golden.
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
success! although not perfect... i used the bi metal hole saw 2 of the holes were perfect and the on the third i applied too much pressure and snapped the pilot bit. i snapped another bit after that and the bi metal part skipped around a bit but i filed it smooth and i have nice rubber gaskets so its all good... check the photo (upper right hole). the holes didnt compromise the strength of the case at all. thanks for the tips
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post #10 of 11
just remember that whatever you use first use blue tape on the target area so you dont mess up your paint job.
    
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