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HOW TO: Set up speakers properly - Page 5

post #41 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by lanman31337 View Post
Again, fantastic info. Ported boxes, when built properly, can yield higher spl and sound just as good as a sealed box. Hatchback cars get nice spl numbers because of their design. Honda CRX is a perfect example. People build their box with subs up, port back, and get really good numbers. 158 is awfully high for a single sub and that little power. I'd guess around 138. I'm hitting 146 with 4 12 inch subs and 3600 watts rms (7200 watts peak) just for the subs.

The reasoning for home audio having the sub at the ground is their subs are tuned low. You want to FEEL the machine gun, or the explosion, not just hear it. Makes it more realistic. Usually they'll do port and sub down.

Crossovers separate frequency ranges and distribute them. You don't want lows going to your tweets, or highs going to your subs.
It was TWO 15" 1000watt RMS Rockford Fosgate Power Punch DVCs. This was around 2001 when I got those values. Won 2 trophies, however I ended up getting 2nd a couple of times due to sponsored vehicles/systems.
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post #42 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post
Not necessarily. There's nothing wrong with pos to neg, so long as all the connections are made the same. That takes care of phasing (ie, all the speaker cones in the system will be moving in the same direction when reproducing the upper half of a sound wave.

Then there's "absolute" phase. In which the top half of a sound wave in the source (the CD/game, mp3, etc) causes the speaker cone to extend. It is possible to have correct phasing (ie all the cones moving together) , but incorrect absolute phase (ie, all the cones moving out when reproducing the top half of the sound wave in the source material).

That's The reason for the "battery test". It is an absolute check that positive current will cause the speaker cone to extend. Touch the positive terminal of the battery to the speaker wire (disconnected at the amplifier) while gently placing a finger on the speaker cone. The cone should extend (and stay extended) while the battery is connected.

It's also a great way to check and "homemade" wiring for correct phase.
Have you ever set up all of your speakers so they pull in instead of push out? Listen to it that way, then reverse it. There will be a world of difference if they're in phase instead of 180.
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post #43 of 47
Sub woofers ,woofers, and mid bass are directional. It is the lower frequency notes that resonate off of everything and create pressure in the room from all sides. If your Sub woofer does not have crossover to remove the the mids and highs out then you will know exactly where that puppy is. You standard Cone speaker usually projects sound over a splay of 45°. Speaker cabinet has a lot to do with what direction the sound will travel. I may go into this more when I get to work.
    
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post #44 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookedJunglist View Post
Sub woofers ,woofers, and mid bass are directional. It is the lower frequency notes that resonate off of everything and create pressure in the room from all sides. If your Sub woofer does not have crossover to remove the the mids and highs out then you will know exactly where that puppy is. You standard Cone speaker usually projects sound over a splay of 45°. Speaker cabinet has a lot to do with what direction the sound will travel. I may go into this more when I get to work.
I'm pretty sure subwoofers are omni-directional.... THX recommends crossing over at 80Hz (a little high IMO, especially if your speaker is full-range)... I would have thought that around 40Hz it's pretty much in omni-directional territory.
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post #45 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy2Shoe View Post
I'm pretty sure subwoofers are omni-directional.... THX recommends crossing over at 80Hz (a little high IMO, especially if your speaker is full-range)... I would have thought that around 40Hz it's pretty much in omni-directional territory.
Don't listen to THX Look at your speakers frequency response specifications and then use a nice DSP crossover to break up the signals properly before sending the discreet signals to their amps. Using the DSP will not help you if you are not using a bi- or tri amp setup for your speakers.

LoL THX. Seriously what if my main surrounds are two way speakers that fall off at 250hz?

The sub woofers driver is directional. but if it is only generating low frequencies the air it moves does not penetrate the other air like higher frequency tones. So all those low frequency sounds bounce off of each other and the room that your sub is in effectively becomes a bigger speaker box and all the air being moved hits you from multiple directions. I wasn't stating that a sub woofer needs to be aimed I was merely stating that the driver "woofer" is directional. The problem with following the place anywhere concept is that in a closed room a sub can create a bass hot spot. In a square room if you place your sub near the corner you can expect there to be a hot spot in the other corner. This is the area where all the pressure ends up at. So if you are sitting on the couch in a corner in that hot spot you will want to turn the bass down. This will affect the other listeners in the room.

In my opinion most home audio installers know very little about how to set up audio gear properly.
    
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post #46 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookedJunglist View Post
Don't listen to THX Look at your speakers frequency response specifications and then use a nice DSP crossover to break up the signals properly before sending the discreet signals to their amps. Using the DSP will not help you if you are not using a bi- or tri amp setup for your speakers.

LoL THX. Seriously what if my main surrounds are two way speakers that fall off at 250hz?

The sub woofers driver is directional. but if it is only generating low frequencies the air it moves does not penetrate the other air like higher frequency tones. So all those low frequency sounds bounce off of each other and the room that your sub is in effectively becomes a bigger speaker box and all the air being moved hits you from multiple directions. I wasn't stating that a sub woofer needs to be aimed I was merely stating that the driver "woofer" is directional. The problem with following the place anywhere concept is that in a closed room a sub can create a bass hot spot. In a square room if you place your sub near the corner you can expect there to be a hot spot in the other corner. This is the area where all the pressure ends up at. So if you are sitting on the couch in a corner in that hot spot you will want to turn the bass down. This will affect the other listeners in the room.

In my opinion most home audio installers know very little about how to set up audio gear properly.
If your mains drop off at 250, you need the lanman add-a-midbass. My tasty tasty midbass will get you all the way down to 100. The natives rejoice!

125 isn't high. I've done many a home system at 120, 125, some even 200. But I almost always have some sort of speaker to hit as low as 125, then something to catch from 125 and down. My car system has the sub at 60, a set of 8 inch speakers from 60 to 125, and the rest of the mid bass from 125 up. Nothing gets missed.

You are right. A cone goes in and out, and therefore goes in one direction, but the waves themselves are omni-directional. That's why you don't have the subwoofer smacking you in the back in the head... I take that back. In a house you don't usually want that unless you like 140 decibel right there!

Your last comment you're dead nuts. I've seen some scary stuff. Some situations where you can't have the speakers equidistant with no phase adjustment, subwoofers in a corner, speakers too low, unshielded speakers beside crt televisions.
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post #47 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by lanman31337 View Post
If your mains drop off at 250, you need the lanman add-a-midbass. My tasty tasty midbass will get you all the way down to 100. The natives rejoice!

125 isn't high. I've done many a home system at 120, 125, some even 200. But I almost always have some sort of speaker to hit as low as 125, then something to catch from 125 and down. My car system has the sub at 60, a set of 8 inch speakers from 60 to 125, and the rest of the mid bass from 125 up. Nothing gets missed.

You are right. A cone goes in and out, and therefore goes in one direction, but the waves themselves are omni-directional. That's why you don't have the subwoofer smacking you in the back in the head... I take that back. In a house you don't usually want that unless you like 140 decibel right there!

Your last comment you're dead nuts. I've seen some scary stuff. Some situations where you can't have the speakers equidistant with no phase adjustment, subwoofers in a corner, speakers too low, unshielded speakers beside crt televisions.
You don't understand what I am saying.
This is what you said
Quote:
Woofers are omni-directional. They carry their waves in all directions, so placement is not that important.
By saying the above you are basically saying that all woofers are omni directional.
Woofers generate much more than subsonic frequencies. these frequencies are easy for our ears to pinpoint the source due to the speed at which they travel. The higher the frequencies cut through the air like a bullet. Subsonic frequencies move through the air like a shock wave from a bomb.
A woofer is just a cone driver.
If you send a raw signal out of an amp to a woofer the sound will travel based on its orientation. Being free of an enclosure it will not reproduce low frequencies very well. you should use Sub woofer in place of woofer. This is what it will be called when they pull it from the box.

Mid bass is a term that was created for the car audio market your guide should say midrange.
Midrange drivers found in home theater setups are not omnis they have a coverage area. Tweeters in home audio come in both omni directional and can also be placed in a horn to direct the sound over a coverage area. Since the above midrange and tweeter will be together they will design the cabinet so that both speakers have the same splay.

Another thing that will make this guide better would be if you used the terminology that would be used by your typical Home theater Audiophile.
Instead of tweeters and midbass and woofer you now have your typical home theater in a box.

You have the following
***Reciever***
Center or center fill
Front left
Front right
Rear left
Rear Right
Rear center
Sub woofer
***If your setup is a computer surround kit you will not get a receiver, your signal processing and amplification is done on the back of the sub woofer.***

If you use those terms the audio engineers on the site will not raise their eye brows when they see bad definitions.

As a staff member of this site it is my job to correct information if it is misleading and could make the site look bad.
    
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