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Would One Exposed Heat Pipe Work Best?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
In the water cooling world, one of the fads is 'bowing' the water block. A this is a picture of the TIM after a bowed block is removed:


It appears to me that it:
  1. Compensates for excessive thermal grease
  2. Compensates for non-flat surfaces

As the picture shows, it reduces contact the area over the dies with an appropriately thin layer of TIM, and leaves a thick layer of TIM elsewhere, reducing heat transfer in the cooler areas of the die.

If the IHS is 30mm x 30mm, the area in contact under the bowed block is about 10mm x 30mm. If the clamping force is 70#, pressure at the contact area went from 50psi to 150psi. It would require more force than the IHS and pins could handle to achieve this over the full IHS.

This would also account for improvements using a backplate. However, would there be an improvement from a stiffer backplate?

Would this mean, as I believe, that in exposed heat pipe HSFs, only the pipe over the dies does the work. If so, a design with a single, flattened 10 or 12mm pipe and press a large flattened area of the pipe against the IHS should be more effective than the designs that use multiple exposed heat pipes or heat pipes in a copper block.

That is, a Xigmatek HDT 1283 could be improved by reducing the pressure on the two side heat pipes and that a TRUE could be improved on my several degrees under load.
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post #2 of 7
I wonder if the diameter of the heatpipe plays a significant role.

I have noted that most heatpipes are around the same diameter. Is this due to some limiting factor (i.e. diminishing returns) of the design?

Wicking is one of the events that occurs, and I wonder if, like syphoning, size does matter.
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post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Typically they have been 6mm. The Xigmateks and IFX-14 have 8mm pipes. By using s bigger pipe you can flattening one enough to cover the hot area of the dies.
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post #4 of 7
Are there any HSF's that have a "flattened" heatpipe design?

I seem to recall seeing something like that, but I don't really trust my perception or memory sometimes.
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post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Xigmatek and others:



What I'm proposing is make the center one larger and flatter, and get rid of the others. That is, putting all 70# of force on the middle pipe will increase its effectiveness more than the two side pipes add.
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post #6 of 7
hmm......how about lapping only the middle of the IHS and laping only the sides of the cooler....it would be like putting a cup in a cup-holder....hm....

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post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
A milling machine would be better. There is some experimenting involved. In air cooling, the heat has to be transmitted to the heat pipes. It would take some experimentation and analysis to determine the heat pattern in the heat sink.

The water coolers are 'bowing' their water blocks by putting washers between the copper base and the center nozzle. That isn't practical with air-cooling.

However, with this heat profile:



cooling the right areas are important. It is the differential between the hot spot and the core that counts. My guess is that the center heat pipes are the hottest by a bit.

Does anyone have any actual data?

If you have the equipment (a thin, long temperature probe) it would be interesting to measure the temperature of the different heat pipes.

If I were designing it, it I would start with a thick walled 12mm heat pipe, flatten it by deforming it so that the wall thickness was not reduced, position it over the hottest part of the IHS, and setup the mount so only that 12mm by say 25mm area touched the IHS. At 70 pounds clamping force that would give around 150psi pressure. Lapping would still be good. And a backing plate necessary.
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