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Pictorial Guide for Installing the Tuniq Tower

post #1 of 4
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This is my first guide so feel free to critique it. I have been playing musical motherboards with this Tuniq Tower. It's been in my P5B deluxe first, then the max Formula, then P5B, then the foxconn X38....... All total, I've installed it more than 10 times not including a few reseats because I put on too much Thermal compound. The best way to install the Tuniq tower is before it goes in the case. You have to at least install the mounting plate before it goes in the case.
The first thing I always do is get some spray glue, a thin foam pad and the backer plate. The pad and spray glue you can get at any hardware store.

I take the spray glue and spray the foam pad, wait for about 5 minutes to let it get sticky and stick it to the backer plate.

Then I cut off the excess

Then I spray the glue on the foam on the backer plate, and wait for it to tack up.
Then get the 4 screws and and put them through the mounting holes in the motherboard and position the mounting plate under it.

Then while holding the board up off the mounting plate start threading each screw just a turn or two. This lines up the plate to the screw holes.

Then pull up on the screws to stick the backer plate to the board.

and turn the board over to make sure it's stuck pretty good.

This comes in handy if you ever need to reseat it while it's in the case.
Now while I'm waiting for the glue to tack up when I'm putting the foam pad on the backer plate I'll clean off the Thermal compound from the bottom of the TT. I use Goof Off from the hardware store and an old pillow case.

You can also use a coffee filter or some other lint free cloth.

I let the Goof Off dry for about 5 minutes(although it seems dry in 10 seconds) before installing it on the CPU.

OK now it's time for the thermal compound. I put it on using the rice sized bead that isn't spread.

That's from an older picture, but you get the idea.
Get the hold down plate and position it over the heat sink,align the peg on the heat sink and put all 4 screws in like this

Now it gets interesting. To position it right hold it just above the CPU (so you don't smear the compound) and start 1 screw. You want it to barely start in the thread. Then start the screw in the opposite corner, again trying to keep the heat sink off the compound and also keeping the alignment peg aligned . Once these 2 screws are in you can set the heat sink on the CPU and start the 2 other screws.Snug up all 4 screws first then tighten 2 of the screws in opposite corners til about half the threads are showing. Then tighten the 2 other screws til you can't see any threads at all. Then go back and tighten the other 2 screws til you can't see the threads.

Sorry for the blurry picture, I took 3 pictures and this was the best

This seems like a lot to do, but this I've gotten the best results this way. I hope it helps and I'm looking forward to any critique you may have.
G0
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G0
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post #2 of 4
Nice guide! I sure had one helluva time installing my Tuniq on my old DFI board.
Subtle Hammer
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Subtle Hammer
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µHammer
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OCZ RD400 256GB NVME lol 
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i5-4690k - 4.6GHz @ 1.250V ASRock Z97M OC Formula Sapphire R9 290 G.SKILL TridentX (2 x 4GB) DDR3 2400 
CoolingMonitorPowerCase
2x H105s: CPU and 290 (via NZXT G10) The Tube (39" LG LED) Corsair AX760 Thermaltake Core V21 
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post #3 of 4
It was a pain in the ass to install on my S3... In the Antec 900.

I installed it after, the MOBO was in the case
PC
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PC
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post #4 of 4
cool info. just one thing

its a well known fact that the efficiency of the heatsink depends upon the surface area of the processor. larger = better disapation. hence my question. i have an am3 processor. would this function as well as it does on your quad.

another thing. iam sure that cabinet also matters a lot. the more air movement inside the chassis, better the cooling.

i happen to have a HAF 922. so this shoud be a good idea for me to pick up right?

thanks
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Apocalypse Tank
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Samsung P2350 Razer Black Widow CM Real Power 1000 Cooler Master HAF 922 
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