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Look what my coolant did to my lines. - Page 3

post #21 of 30
You used dish soap in your loop??
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post #22 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by dralb View Post
Well, I use the dye primarily as a leak detector, the PT nuke to use as a biocide and the soap as a surfactant. If I use straight up distilled, what is stopping algae growth?
I'd say don't use the dye. You can tell pretty quick if there's a leak. Biocide is not necessary. It is way overblown. First of all, copper in and of itself kills a lot of bacteria. Second, you really will not have any problems unless you put your PC in a sunny window and let it sit there. Trust me on this one. Finally, while soap may act as a surfactant, it is most likely ionic and also contains many other inert ingredients that you do not want in your loop. Done properly, a surfactant will only shed you maybe a fraction of a degree celsius. If you still feel strongly about having one, do it properly:
http://www.gemplers.com/product/G497...nic-Surfactant

Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Straight distilled is acidic and is actually a little corrosive to metals, Pentosin and other anti-freezes are used to make your coolant more alkaline and less corrosive..I try to keep my coolant at 7-8 on the Ph scale...
Straight store-bought distilled is generally a teeny tiny bit tipped toward the alkaline side of the scale, at about ~7.2 pH (7.0 being completely neutral). The only corrosion that can occur is galvanic, and assuming you don't have any aluminum in your loop, you do not need to worry about it. You would be many decades in the grave before the first traces of galvanic corrosion in an aluminum-free loop would ever start to appear.
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post #23 of 30
Quote:
Straight store-bought distilled is generally a teeny tiny bit tipped toward the alkaline side of the scale, at about ~7.2 pH (7.0 being completely neutral). The only corrosion that can occur is galvanic, and assuming you don't have any aluminum in your loop, you do not need to worry about it. You would be many decades in the grave before the first traces of galvanic corrosion in an aluminum-free loop would ever start to appear.
Thats funny, I've tested it several times with Ph strips and its usually around a 6..Which pretty well is consistent with the RoboTechs findings in those 2 links I left...All metals will corrode, some just take longer...Aluminum is one of the least noble metals that you could add to a loop thats why it cause so much damage so fast......

You can just use silver in your loop as a biocide to, I threw a couple of silver dollars in my res....

I use a drop of blue "dawn" in every 40 ounces of coolant as well as a ounce to a ounce and a half of glycerin which is also a surfactant or water wetter...It will help temp's a little, another thing it helps is bleeding time, it helps dislodges all the little micro-bubbles...To that for every 40 ounces of coolant I use 4 ounces of G11 and a couple of drops of the PT Nuke...And a couple of drops of "Tracer-Line" clear UV additive so I can check for leaks with a 4" UV....

I'm happy with it, I've mixed and made a lot of coolants and that one basically works well for me....I still try something a little different every now and then but I always go back to that...
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post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Thats funny, I've tested it several times with Ph strips and its usually around a 6..Which pretty well is consistent with the RoboTechs findings in those 2 links I left...All metals will corrode, some just take longer...Aluminum is one of the least noble metals that you could add to a loop thats why it cause so much damage so fast......

You can just use silver in your loop as a biocide to, I threw a couple of silver dollars in my res....

I use a drop of blue "dawn" in every 40 ounces of coolant as well as a ounce to a ounce and a half of glycerin which is also a surfactant or water wetter...It will help temp's a little, another thing it helps is bleeding time, it helps dislodges all the little micro-bubbles...To that for every 40 ounces of coolant I use 4 ounces of G11 and a couple of drops of the PT Nuke...And a couple of drops of "Tracer-Line" clear UV additive so I can check for leaks with a 4" UV....

I'm happy with it, I've mixed and made a lot of coolants and that one basically works well for me....I still try something a little different every now and then but I always go back to that...
And that's what you put in your water cooling pdf that got me going in the whole process! and damnit.. the man knows his stuff.

*EDIT: btw, what does danger den use in their tubing? I picked it up cheap during my micro center days, and it seems to have stayed fairly clean after almost 4 months
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post #25 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Thats funny, I've tested it several times with Ph strips and its usually around a 6..Which pretty well is consistent with the RoboTechs findings in those 2 links I left...All metals will corrode, some just take longer...Aluminum is one of the least noble metals that you could add to a loop thats why it cause so much damage so fast......

You can just use silver in your loop as a biocide to, I threw a couple of silver dollars in my res....

I use a drop of blue "dawn" in every 40 ounces of coolant as well as a ounce to a ounce and a half of glycerin which is also a surfactant or water wetter...It will help temp's a little, another thing it helps is bleeding time, it helps dislodges all the little micro-bubbles...To that for every 40 ounces of coolant I use 4 ounces of G11 and a couple of drops of the PT Nuke...And a couple of drops of "Tracer-Line" clear UV additive so I can check for leaks with a 4" UV....

I'm happy with it, I've mixed and made a lot of coolants and that one basically works well for me....I still try something a little different every now and then but I always go back to that...
1. If a loop contained only copper (or other single metal), and no other metals anywhere in contact with the water, then it will not corrode galvanicly.

2. The level of galvanic corrosion that exists with mixing metals such as copper, brass, chrome, lead, tin and nickel and coupling them with distilled water is so minuscule that it would be virtually undetectable for centuries.

3. pH strips are not precision instruments. Taken right from your link:


4. Yes, silver also acts as a biocide. Putting silver objects in the reservoir would likely kill free flowing microbes, but it would not affect microbes that have attached somewhere or are otherwise stationary. Still, even that is unnecessary because microbes in a water cooling loop is a very moot problem, it almost never happens. Unless you've got your PC in a sunny window, the probability of developing a microbe problem is almost nil.
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post #26 of 30
Not completely true, UV lights promoted bio growth in my micro-reservoir. They were kinda pretty actually, light blue/white petals with a darker blue dot for the core. I know they are some type of algae since when I put in a couple of drops of store purchased biocide, they instantly wilted. I didn't know if I was suppose to be happy or sad
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post #27 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by 003 View Post
1. If a loop contained only copper (or other single metal), and no other metals anywhere in contact with the water, then it will not corrode galvanicly.

2. The level of galvanic corrosion that exists with mixing metals such as copper, brass, chrome, lead, tin and nickel and coupling them with distilled water is so minuscule that it would be virtually undetectable for centuries.

3. pH strips are not precision instruments. Taken right from your link:


4. Yes, silver also acts as a biocide. Putting silver objects in the reservoir would likely kill free flowing microbes, but it would not affect microbes that have attached somewhere or are otherwise stationary. Still, even that is unnecessary because microbes in a water cooling loop is a very moot problem, it almost never happens. Unless you've got your PC in a sunny window, the probability of developing a microbe problem is almost nil.

Well I know that same metals will corrode in a loop,over time, theres really no argument about that..Anyone can do a quick Google and figure that out...

I never believe anything anyone says without trying it out myself...My strip test of distilled usually comes in right around a 6,maybe a hair over, its certainly not a neutral, have you ever ran a Ph on any? Here is something that confirms my tests on it, they actually read it a little lower then a 6....SnyderHealth.com - Water Ionizers - The Dangers Of Distilled And RO Water

But I could care less if you want to use it or not, its what I like and use, simple as that....
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post #28 of 30
ira-k I think you're right and I retract my previous claims. I carefully read through both part 1 and part 2 of those links you posted, and they were quite informative, and yet somehow inconclusive: what is the best coolant to use? I still do stand by my statement that no biocide is needed, but that boils down to preference.

Anyway, from the reading I get the impression that Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant is the best additive to use. It has good surfactant properties, anti-corrosion properties, and tips the pH towards alkaline.

Zerex is also intriguing, and quite often recommended, but I can't find any specific ingredients it contains and I would be uncomfortable putting it in my loop.

What do you suggest?

EDIT:
My loop contains no aluminum and I use Tygon B-44-3 tubing.
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post #29 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by 003 View Post
ira-k I think you're right and I retract my previous claims. I carefully read through both part 1 and part 2 of those links you posted, and they were quite informative, and yet somehow inconclusive: what is the best coolant to use? I still do stand by my statement that no biocide is needed, but that boils down to preference.

Anyway, from the reading I get the impression that Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant is the best additive to use. It has good surfactant properties, anti-corrosion properties, and tips the pH towards alkaline.

Zerex is also intriguing, and quite often recommended, but I can't find any specific ingredients it contains and I would be uncomfortable putting it in my loop.

What do you suggest?

EDIT:
My loop contains no aluminum and I use Tygon B-44-3 tubing.
I'm glad you took the time to read through them, its good stuff...I never have seen any follow ups to it, I wish I did, he does great work...I think as highly of him as I do Cathar or Bill A., he was more of a generalist, He did have some really nice testing of the D-5 and DDC on the Pro Cooling site, its down now...He's the one that started the DDC pump top craze with his modded stock top....

I've not used any Hyper Lube or talked to anyone who has, it does look good...If you try it let us know what you think of it...

A friend of mine swears by Royal Purple...

I've used Zerex and it worked pretty well but it has a real bad odor, I think thats the one that stank so bad, its been a while since i used it...

Really just Hydrex is a pretty good all purpose, it has a surfactant and will raise you pH toward alkaline, cheap to, 2 ounces will make around 30 ounces of mix with distilled..Swiftech Hydrx ..

If you try any mixes of various components,I would mix it to the right proportions and then put some in a little sealed tupper-ware bowl for a few days, I'll put it in a sink full of water, shake it fairly often, just play with it and watch it...Mostly what reaction you will have, if you have one, will be a precipitation of solids, some will layer...I never mix in my loop anymore, I learned that the hard way, one mix looked like it was snowing in my loop, I didn't think I would ever get it all out......

I try to use small amounts of additives, that will work together well, that will not get me to far off of straight distilled temp's...One thing to remember if you haven't used additives before is to rinse out you loop several times before using another type of additive, you can get precipitation from that residue..Another good surfactant is glycerin, its a pretty good pump lube to, I never ran a DDC with-out it...I mix it a ounce to a ounce and a half per 40 ounces or so of distilled..The Dawn and glycerin is better to under use then over, to much will hurt temp's instead of helping..They really seem to speed up bleed time to...

I used to really like trying new mixes, anymore I pretty well stay to that one above, it seems to work pretty well...
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post #30 of 30
What about distilled and Water Wetter. Sorry to hijack but since we are talking about additives. I have some new, never put it in the old VFR, and was wondering if it was okay to use in a WC project.
    
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