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Requesting help finding performance parts, please. - Page 3

post #21 of 34
I don't really know, some of them say it cools as well and the Fuzion only pulls ahead when its jetted....I'd use a back-plate with either one of them, but especially the Stinger, it wont bow...

These are mine, I like the all metal ones....





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post #22 of 34
Thread Starter 
(sweet blocks)
Yeah, agree that the stingers look nice, and I'm sure it is a better block, but I'm trying to decide whether it is $130 better.
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post #23 of 34
Thread Starter 
Well, thanks to the help of you kind OCN'ers (and especially ira-k), I have decided on the system I am going to run and have ordered it.
The first of the parts have just arrived (gtx 480 rad, bay res, tubing and addatives, Rhobeus Extreme fan controller, 4x San Ace fans), and the rest is slated for the next day or two. The part that does make me a little uneasy is that my case hasn't shipped out yet. I ordered the new lian li v2010 from silverpcs.com and I am thinking that it should have been processed by now.
I am not sweating this too much because there are plenty of things (especially leak testing and making a shroud) that I need to get done before I even get my case.
Thank you all again for how infinately helpful and patient you have been while guiding me through this process.
One last thing: I see a lot of people around here posting work-logs as they assemble their system. Should I do this to offer up any information that I can for someone in a similar situation?
Thanks

EDIT: Oh and one more thing.
I have noticed that in my haste I forgot to add those nifty looking anti-kink coils. I am going to order some now but I am wondering if they have to be installed before the hose is clamped down, or if they can just be slid on an existing system? If I have to do it before I install all of my hose, I will do faster shipping and rush the processing etc. If not, I'll just hang tight and coil it on when I get it. Thanks.
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post #24 of 34
Good deal..Glad your getting it going....You can put the cool sleeves on at anytime, they are like springs so you can just twist them onto your tubing....
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post #25 of 34
Thread Starter 
That is what I thought, but I just wanted to be sure.
Thanks.
Also, I was thinking about it, and could I install my wc setup in my case and then fill/leak test it before I install any of my computer components? This seems a lot easier than having to redo it.
Thanks again.
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post #26 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehPLayerer View Post
That is what I thought, but I just wanted to be sure.
Thanks.
Also, I was thinking about it, and could I install my wc setup in my case and then fill/leak test it before I install any of my computer components? This seems a lot easier than having to redo it.
Thanks again.
Hey its NP...You could do that, but when you install your components you would have to move your tubing around a lot, that might get it leaking at your unions...Thats one thing to remember when your working on something else in your box, watch and make sure you don't loosen any barbs up....I've had that happen to me several times, if I hadn't been watching for that I would of had leaks..
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post #27 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks.
I tried my 7/16 tubing I ordered on my barbs and it doesn't fit
No biggie, I'll just hit up home depot for some 1/2 inch. It was worth a try though.
And I wsa thinking about this:
The fill hole in my res in towards the front and on the top. When in my case, that is not readily available. What do I do about that? Should I just make the hoses to that like 6 inches longer?
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post #28 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehPLayerer View Post
Thanks.
I tried my 7/16 tubing I ordered on my barbs and it doesn't fit
No biggie, I'll just hit up home depot for some 1/2 inch. It was worth a try though.
And I wsa thinking about this:
The fill hole in my res in towards the front and on the top. When in my case, that is not readily available. What do I do about that? Should I just make the hoses to that like 6 inches longer?

The 7/16 will fit 1/2" barbs, on metal barbs soak the end of the tubing in some rubbing alcohol for a minute or so then slide it on...On plastic barbs I use a little glycerin and water on the barb, you can soak the end of your tubing in some hot water to get it on to, or wallow it out a little with some needle nose pliers...The main thing is when it starts going on don't stop pushing......It fits tight, but it wont be as likely to leak at the tubing to barb union either...

Yeah I always leave a few extra inches on the res tubing so I can slide it out a little..At DD and Petra's they have a large plastic syringe for topping off a res, they work great, you wont have to slide your res out so far to use it..
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post #29 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thank you. I think I may be set to start leak testing as soon as I get my rad mount.
So if I leak test with the setup in the case before installing the mobo/cpu etc, would I have any trouble trying to mount the block onto the cpu with water in it? It is actually starting to sound easier/safer to assemble the system outside of the case to leak test then drain it and reassemble it in the case attached to the cpu. I am just a little afraid that if I take off the tubing and put it back on that it could spring a leak all over my motherboard
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post #30 of 34
I like doing it out of the case for the first leak test, all your doing is pressure testing it, o-rings can leak, plexi can be cracked..etc..

If you do it in the case, then try to add mobo and all that I don't know how it would work out,hey if you have a lot of room go for it, doesn't hurt to try...I rarely do anything the same way twice.....Sometimes it works out OK, sometimes not...

I just cut my tubing 3 or 4 inches overlong, then I can just cut it off when I put it back into the case, I have some heavy twine I measure with, you know, where the components will be in the case, then cut the tubing a little over long from that...I always put my block tubing on before I mount it to the mobo...

After you put it back into the case I would still leave the power off, you want to leak test again for a while...I usually go 24 hours or longer, put some pieces of printer paper under unions, that way its easier to see if you have any drips...Running your fingers around the barbs is another good way, if your fingers come back damp you know you have a weepy leak...

I'm paranoid about it, most guys don't leak test that much...I've never had a leak, and I knock on wood every time I say that to, anyone can spring a leak...Remember what I was saying earlier and be aware of your tubing to barb unions when your working in you box on other things, thats something to always keep in mind....
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