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Operation: TRUE Killa aka XIGMATEK HDT S1283 - Page 2

post #11 of 117
I'm interested in what your temps before and after doing all those mods to see if its worth doing/buying. I ordered TIM consultants paste hopefully that will bring down my temps. My 4 cores are currently idling in the 50c range.
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post #12 of 117
Thread Starter 
Ok back from some serious mobo raping... to get this sucker to fit on my mobo with that 38mm Scythe I had to void my warranty and pull my NB heat sink off. Not necessarily being prepared for that I pulled another off a old dell mobo in my basement. Ran to the store cause I was outta zip ties and viola! New NB passive heat sink (scared ****less) but haven't seen the NB go over 40c... yet. Here are some pics of that whole mess. Stress testing and what not to come!

Before:After:Cleaned:
Ziptied NB:

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatmario View Post
Isnt XIGMATEK HDT S1283 has push pin?how come u have thermalright bolt kit?
Yes it is a push pin design however I don't trust the push pins to apply enough pressure, not fall off my mobo or just break themselves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by criminal View Post
So you going to get better performance with that than a lapped TRUE? Good luck!
Certainly trying too. If anything I hope there's some performance/price value on this combo that can be shown here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lumaform View Post
I'm especially interested in seeing how it'll perform when paired with a tapered Q6600.
Originally I did start with a tapered Q6600, which I then lapped to 2000 grit as well. Still somewhat tapered but not as horrible when its stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xHassassin View Post
Eh, maybe I'm just not good with this whole lapping thing, but wouldn't it be better if you got the entire bottom flat by sanding the heat pipes and the metal?
Because right now I still see some ridges.
Thats actually what I did. This heatsink however is HDT design and using a large grit would chance ruining the heatpipes by literally sanding through them. My goal was simply to get rid of the machining on the heatpipes as they are the main source of heat transfer. The aluminum part is really there to mount the sucker to the mobo and it's pretty damn flat from what I see
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post #13 of 117
This is one thing that bugs me with DFI boards. TRUE only fits in one direction, NB getting in the way, etc. I mean doesn't the DFI engineers know that producing such OC monsters will require equally monstrous heat sinks? This has been the sole factor why I don't join the DFI camp. Asus FTW!
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post #14 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by lumaform View Post
This is one thing that bugs me with DFI boards. TRUE only fits in one direction, NB getting in the way, etc. I mean doesn't the DFI engineers know that producing such OC monsters will require equally monstrous heat sinks? This has been the sole factor why I don't join the DFI camp. Asus FTW!
my eVGA board suffers from the same problem. I can only shift it the one way. That's fine with me though. I think my temp problems stem from the lapped TRUE paired with unlapped Q6600.

And IMO, the TRUE isn't all that great, it's good. Not THE best. I've owned both Tuniq and TRUE and they're almost identical.
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post #15 of 117
Thread Starter 
Still playing around with the setup so far but... Numbers better all around.

Before: stuck at 1.424v @ 3.6Ghz ~ 67-69c
After: 1.47v @ 4Ghz ~ fails prime with 34-30-34-27 idles...

Now I know idles dont mean poop but 4Ghz was a fantasy before I got this heatsink. I'll certainly be playing around to see what I can get stable.
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post #16 of 117
did you fill in the grooves with thermal paste?
    
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post #17 of 117
Thread Starter 
I am sure when I sat the sink the pressure from seating it filled them.
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post #18 of 117
dang 4ghz is it stable? lol
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post #19 of 117
Thread Starter 
hell no! just happy i could boot into it! I'll work on stable here soon
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post #20 of 117
i would be too. that would be sweet if you could get that stable
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