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[COMPLETE] 8800 GTS 320 Arctic Silver Job = EPIC PHAIL (work log)

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
This is my short work log for an Arctic Silver mod on my 8800GTS 320 which turned out not so good...

Used a piece of milk crate (flat section) to make some custom plastic washers




Drilled a hole in each one




Then rounded them off a bit with the Dremel. I wasnt concerned with perfect circles


Slight detour to assemble a part in one of my daughter's toys


Back to business, the stuff I used for cleaning, and the new TIM


Separated the HSF from the GPU card


I cleaned and cleaned the gpu and hs with coffee filter and 91% IA until they were clean, then I tried a bit of that Arcticlean 1 stuff. Its too bright in the pic but the filter cam back very dirty, even after all that cleaning with IA. I guess that citrus based stuff is no joke!


I cleaned with that until it was coming back clean each time, then I used step 2 to prepare the surfaces


Of course, since I was in a rush to get to my saturday night TF2 gaming session I forgot to take a pic of the paste applied, and the washers installed but I am sure you get the idea. Here is the closed up card


I know it bright, but I could not leave out this pic...
While putting back in the spring screws, with the custom washers, one of them which I thought was threaded, popped out and went flying, but instead of hearing it bounce off a bunch of stuff, all I heard was "pwip". I was like ***. So I searched for a half hour, no luck. I looked hi and lo with a flashlight, nothing. I finally gave up and figured the screw gnomes had it, so I finished putting the card together, and began to put my tools away. I go to put away a screw driver, and there, somehow, magically, is the spring screw lodged in the slot that holds the screw driver in that lil pc toolkit. Now for the record, that kit at the time was about 2 feet away on the work table, I dont know how its possible, but that thing shot out like a rocket and wedged in there with barely a sound. That has to be a one in a billion shot! And its probably the most exciting part of this whole work log. Sorry but I had to shre that story.


Anyway on to the results. I use ATITool for 15 minutes as the Load guage.
before mod:
amb 72f, idle 59c, load 71c

after mod:
amb 72f, idle 59c, load 80c
haha, epic phail - YOU FAIL!

I think its a contact problem, but I am not too concerned since epic fail turns into win...

Zalman VF1000 + RHS88 will be here tomorrow
After market vga cooler ftw!

thanks for reading
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post #2 of 13
were did you put those plastic washers?
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post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
under each of the 8 spring screws, between the spring an the pcb. I thought it might give more uumf especially where the pads were removed and replaced with AS Ceramic.

And btw mods, sorry I thought I posted this in Nvidia Cooling another epic phail I guess

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post #4 of 13
well i see your first problem. the reason they dont have risers on the screws is well cause they are not needed. and what dod you put on your ram chip to make contact with the cooler
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post #5 of 13
Dude (and to everyone else), you *cannot* just remove the mem chip pads and replace them with a thermal compound.

I mean, not unless you wanna fry your mem chips in a big fat hurry. Those pads form the only physical connection between the chips and cooler, and the card is engineered so that there is a sizable space between the two to compensate for the pads (which are in turn there to protect the relatively fragile memory chips from direct contact with the metal cooler).

This space cannot be compensated for by the use of a thermal compound, because these compounds are designed to be squeezed between two pieces of metal which ARE in direct contact ... it's purpose is just to fill up the tiny grooves in the two pieces of metal and improve heat transfer ... but it cannot compensate for an actual GAP between the two surfaces!

You mustn't EVER remove those pads and then reassemble and use the card without the pads, unless you have some *very* similar replacement to the pads (same thickness, down to the micron level), otherwise you really risk destroying your card. And using washers to increase the torque on the screws? *REALLY* a bad idea in combination with the lack of pads.

I would disassemble the heatsink immediately, and not operate the card until your other cooler arrives (unless you have the pads and they're okay to reinstall, of course )
    
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post #6 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by brettjv View Post
Dude (and to everyone else), you *cannot* just remove the mem chip pads and replace them with a thermal compound.

I mean, not unless you wanna fry your mem chips in a big fat hurry. Those pads form the only physical connection between the chips and cooler, and the card is engineered so that there is a sizable space between the two to compensate for the pads (which are in turn there to protect the relatively fragile memory chips from direct contact with the metal cooler).

This space cannot be compensated for by the use of a thermal compound, because these compounds are designed to be squeezed between two pieces of metal which ARE in direct contact ... it's purpose is just to fill up the tiny grooves in the two pieces of metal and improve heat transfer ... but it cannot compensate for an actual GAP between the two surfaces!

You mustn't EVER remove those pads and then reassemble and use the card without the pads, unless you have some *very* similar replacement to the pads (same thickness, down to the micron level), otherwise you really risk destroying your card. And using washers to increase the torque on the screws? *REALLY* a bad idea in combination with the lack of pads.

I would disassemble the heatsink immediately, and not operate the card until your other cooler arrives (unless you have the pads and they're okay to reinstall, of course )
they dont have to be down to the micron. you can get thicker ones and they will form to the chip and make a better connection the stock ones will.
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post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
I hear what you guys are saying, I am learning from all of this, which was the point I guess Yeah, the washers flexed the card a little, so there is contact between the the sinks and the mem chips, on there I used ASC, on the gpu itself I used AS5. The new cooler will be here today and it comes with pads for all the chips. I only ran it that evening for gaming and had no issues in TF2 and Crysis so I am assuming its ok. The computer will be off all day when I leave for work and I will do the new cooler whan I get home. Ill post temps after the new cooler is tested.

Thanks for the input.
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post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
Installed the Zalman Kits (VF1000 and RHS88) and did some tests

Ambient: 72F
Test: ATITool 15 mins

ZALMAN Setup:
Fan:Lowest rpm 1400+
Idle: 57C
Load: 80C

Fan:Highest rpm 2400+
Idle: 54C
Load: 75C

Original Stock Setup and RT 2.08
Idle:59C (fan 60%, flip to 80% at 60C)
Load:72C (fan to 100% at 68C)


Overall it seems that the stock hsf was better on the high end, but the zalman is better at low and mid range. Since the fan is so quiet I am just gonna leave it at 100%. And Since the games I play barely ever pushed the gpu core out of the 60's C, I think this setup is ok.

</end saga>
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post #9 of 13
Jeez that's a big chip.
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post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
lol, yeah. Almost equiv to a p4 in processing capabilities, from what I read somewhere. Are the g92's smaller?
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