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Tricky needs WC Help / Suggestions! - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder_2008 View Post
O.K. If you are lookin to load ur quad at 5c then your going to have to either go with a 16wheel truckers radiator or go tec,phase change or chilled water. Your talking about spending alot more money...of the three categories mentioned the chilled water you should likely consider...as I am assuming that you must already have a decent cpu water block in which case you could get with spending $320 plus another 20 for a pump and small reservoir<not radiator> and you would then have sub-zero cooling for your cpu and in future you could add other components to the loop as the system would easily handle up to 1500btu/heat .
Relax he just wants to cool his Quad down, not get it to -20c load.

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post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder_2008 View Post
O.K. If you are lookin to load ur quad at 5c then your going to have to either go with a 16wheel truckers radiator or go tec,phase change or chilled water. Your talking about spending alot more money...of the three categories mentioned the chilled water you should likely consider...as I am assuming that you must already have a decent cpu water block in which case you could get with spending $320 plus another 20 for a pump and small reservoir<not radiator> and you would then have sub-zero cooling for your cpu and in future you could add other components to the loop as the system would easily handle up to 1500btu/heat .
when did he say he wanted to go sub-ambient

but i do get what your point is.
Tricky, you might be in a bit of a sticky situation figuring out if knocking a few C off with watercooling is worth the extra cash.

of course it's also reliant on the size radiator and your ambient temperatures, but it's something to consider i guess.
i'm a tinkerer so i'm all for W/C regardless of the cost for that extra few C, but it's not everyone's cup of tea

edit-----------
also, anyone got any experience going from a TRUE to watercooling? i can only say from an old Athlon X2 standpoint.
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post #13 of 27
Yes sonic you are right it is not exactly high performance...lol. I'm not sure if he stated that he wanted a 5degree improvement or wants load temp @ 5c....this is two very different things.
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post #14 of 27
I should clarify, it can be done for less if you are willing to be creative. My current system has an '88 Camaro heater core with 2 120's that is built into the floor of the case and isolated so not to mix heated exhaust into the case. The heater core was $20 compared to $110 for a Black Ice GTX360. I was going with a similar pump as I have now, the Swiftech MCP655-B for $70 and a D-Tek FuZion V2 for $70. Add on 10' of Tygon and shipping and we're at $280 from Sidewinder (only place that has the FuZion v2 in stock ATM)

Obviously the above has a lot of room for growth, which is my plan...future water cooled crossfire GPU's is the main reason for the GTX360. The pump is a great one with plenty of head pressure and GPH. As for the block, I want the aesthetic it has...there are others that perform well for less. Figure about $200-$250 if you want to piece together a good circuit.

Also, what CFM fan are you running on the TRUE and did you lap it and the IHS? If you up the CFM (and the noise level) and lap both pieces you can get much better performance...but the CFM has to be way up there resulting in +50db noise.
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post #15 of 27
in short it's not worth it monetarily to go the regular water cooling route...as for little more money you can have sub-zero chilled water...not _20c but -5 to 0 certainly loaded with everything you could throw into the loop.

If I had spent $800 for a top water cooling setup I could have saved myself $1000 or more from the loss of buying cheap components that I upgraded and could not resale.

Buying radiators over a chiller is kinda going down that route...spending less now just means you will spend much more in future.

But, then again you got to work with what you've got now.
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post #16 of 27
Ok check it out....I too am gonna go Q6600 and WCing at the same time.....I dont want my new Quad to get that hot! Here is my lil shopping list....

MCP350 $55
XSPC - Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC $45
D-tek FuZion CPU Water Block $53
MCR-220 Radiator $42
ClearFLEX 60 Tubing 1/2" ID / 5/8" OD $7.50 for 10ft.
G11 Coolant $3.50
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12 2x for $7

So Grand total is: $213 +SH
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post #17 of 27
Hey bind...unless you put a jet turbine on to a 360 your not going to get any true performance gains to jusify spending the money even for a "DIY" it is one thing to say that you want to do it for fun...but for $400 if you can have -5c water with cpu,two vgas',chipsets,memory....?

I am all for creativity but $ economy is not just spending $5 if it costs $100 to do it so that it works for your whole system to be then do it...life is to short to not live and have any/everything you wish within reason.
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post #18 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder_2008 View Post
Hey bind...unless you put a jet turbine on to a 360 your not going to get any true performance gains to jusify spending the money even for a "DIY" it is one thing to say that you want to do it for fun...but for $400 if you can have -5c water with cpu,two vgas',chipsets,memory....?

I am all for creativity but $ economy is not just spending $5 if it costs $100 to do it so that it works for your whole system to be then do it...life is to short to not live and have any/everything you wish within reason.
-5C water for CPU, 2 GPUs, chipset, and memory... for $400? Sign me up! That's system must be able to remove 800-1000w.....
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post #19 of 27
Well I just know that it can remove 1500btu of heat...whatever the conversion works out to be....this is buying a stock chiller...I plan to sale my Aqua Computer 360xt and get a modded chiller.

It's going to have koolance liquid cooled psu, north/south chipset, two 3870x2,Flex ddr3 memory modules all water blocked.

I will still have my LS for cpu cooling.

It will cost $319 for regular chiller and $480 for the modded which puts out even more btus than the other.
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post #20 of 27
Tricky, I bet you are wondering why a single 120 rad won't really improve anything (possibly make it worse actually).

The reason is, the liquid cooling system is just a complicated HSF. Instead of heat-pipes moving heat from the base and into the fins, you have water moving heat away from the block, and into the radiator. A single 120 rad doesn't have much more...if any more surface area than your TRUE currently has, and therefore, likely cannot transfer any more heat than your current TRUE.
A 120x2 obviously has more surface area in the fins to transmit heat into the surrounding air.

Honestly, although people keep saying "D-TeK Fuzion v2", you should still be able to get the original Fuzion still, and hopefully save a few bucks. You could also try scrouging for one used off of the for sale forum.

I don't recommend Tygon tubing. Why? It's expensive. From what I've read, Masterkleer, and others should work perfectly fine.

Liquid: Find some distilled water, add 1 or two drops of PT Nuke And be done with it. Easily the cheapest liquid coolant available.

Before you buy, seriously spend a few nights on this board, reading the faqs, how-tos, and other people's questions. It's what I've done, and I've learned a lot.

Oh, and Thunder? Tricky wants something that's an improvement over his lapped TRUE. He isn't looking for sub-ambient. He is however hoping for more than just a mere 5 degree difference in his load temps to justify the added expense of the WC system. Ideally, I think he would like to get his load temps down to 62 or 60, if it's possible using system relying upon ambinet air, and on a budget.
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