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Very Abnormal Temps (X2 5000+ BE) - Page 2

post #11 of 27
OceanSide08, my 5000+ is also reading very high temps at idle. Although, it never goes over ~63c load. I am on my second arctic silver 5 application and have resorted to replacing my 120mm fans with higher flow silverstones. I'll let you know if it makes a difference.
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post #12 of 27
These brisbanes are known for faulty temp sensors just to give you a heads up. If your HSF is seated properly with the proper amount of thermal paste it should be fine. I'm assuming when you did your OC you didn't increase voltage hardly at all? Remember this is a 65nm chip should run a lot cooler even when OC'ed than it's 90nm counterparts.

Edit: 1.5v vcore is as far as I would personally push your chip overheating could be a problem at that voltage and with your whacky temp readings who knows.
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post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by txtmstrjoe View Post
Out of the box, the Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro is inadequate for dual-cores, according to most users. It's a fine budget HSF for a single-core CPU, but if its base is not lapped (the CPU's IHS should also be lapped to match for best effect) and if the stock 92mm fan is not replaced with something far more powerful, it simply cannot cool a super-high OC such as an AM2 chip @ 3.0GHz.

You're asking far too much from the cooler than it can possibly deliver, unfortunately.
I would disagree with your opinion of the Freezer 64 but lapping it would help,mine was concave.Out of the box mine ran 55c full load at 3Ghz and after lapping both the CPU and cooler it now is 47c full load at 3Ghz.I consider it the best bang for the buck cooler sold and would only spend more if you are going to really push your OC and run a high voltage.I would say it's good to at least 3.2Ghz as long as you don't have to push a lot of voltage to get there.
I found PC Probe to be the most accurate for me just make sure you have the latest version.
I would reseat your cooler and make sure you use the right amount of paste.Not enough will raise temps and too much will also raise them.
What does your BIOS say your CPU temp is?
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post #14 of 27
You guys do realize that all of these CPU temp progs read the same data from the same hardware sensors, right? Therefore it is pointless to say "HW monitor is better than speedfan" and "coretemp is better than HW monitor." As long as the progs are reading the same hardware sensors, they will give identical results (assuming the programmer didn't implement some sort of temp "correction" in his software). It isn't like these progs pull a temperature out of thin air and hope it's right. They only report what the hardware gives.

I have noticed that some of the Windows progs will pick up only some of my hardware sensors, while others will pick up different ones. I think it really depends on which hardware sensors the programmer has implemented into his software. There are tons of hardware sensors out there, which is why it's hard to find one prog that will have support for them all. Lm_sensors (Linux) is the best I have seen at reporting ALL of the sensors on my particular mobo. The website for lm_sensors has a huge list of supported sensors. I doubt Speedfan or Core Temp has this many implemented into the code.

One thing I have figured out is that my BIOS reports my CPU temp based on my "it87 hwmon0" thermal probe. Once I figured which sensor my BIOS used, I went into Linux (and Windows) and looked at what the temp for that specific sensor was. I noticed that my temps as reported in both Linux and Windows were ALWAYS 5 degrees lower than my BIOS, which suggests to me that Gigabyte did their own "temperature correction" -- that is, they made the BIOS report temps 5 degrees higher at all times for safety. They do this because they know that hardware sensors are not always 100% accurate (this is just the way it is due to design limitations). To remedy this discrepancy, I simply opened lm-sensors in Linux and set it so that my CPU temp always reads +5 degrees -- this makes it identical to my BIOS at all times. I think Speedfan in Windows gives you the same option for temp "correction." The problem is that you don't really know which sensor is which in many of these Windows progs, therefore it's hard to know which one to "calibrate" to your BIOS reading. I have no idea if the 5 degree addition the BIOS gives me is right, or if the lower readings straight from the hardware is. Either way, it's safer to use the higher reading, which I do.

One more thing: I am not convinced that while you are in BIOS that you are under "80% load." My BIOS temps (while I'm in my BIOS) are always the same as my idle temps in Windows or Linux. Therefore, I am pretty sure my BIOS when open is not at 80% load. Maybe it's true on some mobos, but it's never been true on any I've ever owned. I surmise this got started because people noticed their BIOS temps were always higher. In all likelihood this is not because the BIOS is under load, but because the manufacturer of the board "programmed" the BIOS to report higher temps than what the sensors actually report. Think about it -- does a simple blue screen and text really need 80% CPU power?

And, oh yeah, the guy who said the AC64 cooler is only good for stock speeds is wrong. Many people report massive overclocks using that cooler. I've never used the AC64 or AC7, but I have a cooler that's very similar in design to the AC and my CPU temp at a 900 Mhz overclock never goes above 45 degrees, even on an all-night orthos test. Granted, both my CPU and heatsink are lapped, but I have noticed no difference in temps after lapping. All that work for no temp decrease.

But to the OP: your heatsink is probably not mounted properly. You either didn't use AS5 right or you are getting too much air in between the IHS and the heatsink. Also, you need some case fans. Basically, I echo the advice everyone in this thread has already given.
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post #15 of 27
is the heat sink a push pin or a bolt down. if its bolt down why not take the IHS off. i did and i got a nice 100Mhz out of mine.
    
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post #16 of 27
@ thiussat: In theory, your assertion that all these different programs read the same sensors and should therefore return the same exact reports is correct. In practice, however, that is simply not true. With all the boards I've played with, SpeedFan's reports are always way off compared to CoreTemp and Everest Ultimate (which is what I use); CoreTemp and Everest Ultimate almost always coincide to the degree and pass the so-called "close enough" test. SpeedFan, though, needs to be configured (not a very user-friendly "feature" of the program) before its reports coincide with other programs'.

Similarly, the reports from software provided by the motherboard manufacturer also only sometimes coincide with programs like CoreTemp or Everest Ultimate. It's a hit-or-miss affair, in my experience.

Like you, I'm a little skeptical about the "80% load while in the BIOS" claim; I know I pointed it out, but I myself am only reporting what others have observed/claimed.

Finally, regarding the AC Freezer 64 Pro: I used to have one, but jettisoned it when I went dual-core because mine didn't seem adequate. I did mention that many users have reported improved performance after lapping its base and their CPU's IHS and adding a more powerful fan. I only mention these here again because I'm afraid that my original comments (which are essentially repeated here) might be taken out of context and misconstrued.
    
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post #17 of 27
Remove the IHS, slap on AS5, and OC to your heart's desire. Removing the IHS pretty much guarantees a minimum 10C drop in temps (I did it on both my old X2 3800+ and the newer X2 5000+ BE).

I am currently running my Brisbane X2 5000+ BE @ 3.3GHz, and my load temp never surpasses 55C. Anyway, see the rig in the signature

WARNING: By listening to me and removing your IHS you waive me of any and all liabilities due to damages and/or anything else that you may encounter as a result of or cause by doing this modification to your CPU or system. Enjoy!
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post #18 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by txtmstrjoe View Post
SpeedFan is notoriously unreliable for use on AMD multi-core systems. For the sake of consistency and reliability, please download CoreTemp and report what its readings are.
First of all I must state I don't think the 5000 BE has a very accurate Temp sensor. Maybe this has changed with newer chips since I bought mine. I've been using Speed Fan to monitor temps which read 33C - 55C at 3280Ghz OC. But when I use Core Temp or Everest, my core temps read 10C and 20C. This is all on Asus M2N32 SLI-Deluxe. In the past I would agree with you on all of my other setups. But what do you think? If those core temps are correct, my 9500 cooler is insane! Cools better than my house A/C! Sorry for the Irony. But my setup is proof that Core Temp isn't always the best temp detector. It is my favorite though. Just not for my current setup though.
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post #19 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMDKnight View Post
First of all I must state I don't think the 5000 BE has a very accurate Temp sensor. Maybe this has changed with newer chips since I bought mine. I've been using Speed Fan to monitor temps which read 33C - 55C at 3280Ghz OC. But when I use Core Temp or Everest, my core temps read 10C and 20C. This is all on Asus M2N32 SLI-Deluxe. In the past I would agree with you on all of my other setups. But what do you think? If those core temps are correct, my 9500 cooler is insane! Cools better than my house A/C! Sorry for the Irony. But my setup is proof that Core Temp isn't always the best temp detector. It is my favorite though. Just not for my current setup though.
Your anecdote is a perfect illustration of one of my most favorite overclockers' maxims: "Your mileage may vary."
    
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post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by txtmstrjoe View Post
Out of the box, the Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro is inadequate for dual-cores, according to most users. It's a fine budget HSF for a single-core CPU, but if its base is not lapped (the CPU's IHS should also be lapped to match for best effect) and if the stock 92mm fan is not replaced with something far more powerful, it simply cannot cool a super-high OC such as an AM2 chip @ 3.0GHz.

You're asking far too much from the cooler than it can possibly deliver, unfortunately.
Sorry to say it as detailed as this sounds but I just picked up this same item from the egg & it's decreased my temps by 5C. This info is wrong. Also to the OP just know that the 5000+ BE cpus have whacked out temp sensors. Don't trust cpu temp..for me it reports the computer is colder then the room it's sitting in...wrong. Pc Probe for me states the truth. What you should do is get as many temps programs as you can & run those...see which ones are closest & do a temp average. From what I've read & experienced none are going to be correct. Myself I had the same issue as you..running the ASUS M3A board with the bios updated to 0805 & my temps were normall 10C/15C higher then actual. I reverted back to the default bios & running ORTHOS my temps max 50C/55C - & thats on the quoted cooler thats no good for this cpu too! Just go with your gut on it. Max sure you have proper airflow. Thats what I did & am now getting ready when I have time to try to push my cpu to 3400ghz!!!
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