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Switch to water cooling???

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hi all.

Thinking about switching to water cooling. Goals of the conversion would be to upgrade to an Intel quad or extreme processor and to reduce the wind tunnel effect when I am rendering graphics and video.

My budget for complete cooling of CPU and graphics card is ~$300. Any suggestions or advice appreciated.

(I intend to keep my mobo and case.)

Thanks, MCN
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post #2 of 9
Well, if you want to keep it simple and relatively cheap (with good performance of course), I would go with the following

CPU Block
this

GPU Block
this or this

Radiator
this

Pump
this

Tubing

12' of this

- Some hose clamps from your local hardware store
- Use a t-line instead of a reservoir (conserve space and avoid leaky reservoirs)
- Get some cheap water additive or make your own coolant (I buy the non-conductive stuff, but that's expensive)
- A few medium speed 12cm fans (some Yate Loons would do nicely)
- You will need plenty of ramsinks for the video card's memory chips and voltage regulators (people recommend these ones, but I find that cheaper aluminum sinks do just as well)
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post #3 of 9
The benefits of water cooling are minimal. The costs, maintenance and risks associated with water cooling are numerous. Unless you are just a die hard modder, get a TRUE and save time and money.

A TRUE + Lapping supplies = $100. Water cooling custom kit $300+.
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post #4 of 9
You still need fans on the radiator when you watercool, so there's still noise.
The larger the radiator, the slower(quieter) fans you need.
Look at it this way:
If you need 150 CFMs of air flow to remove the heat from the water in the radiator, then a radiator that uses a single 120mm fan will need a loud 150 CFM fan. But if you use a two fan radiator, then you can use two 75 CFM fans. A triple fan radiator would need only 50 CFM fans. Quad radiator, 37.5 CFM fans. Two quad fan radiators, 18.75 CFM fans.

Also be aware that some radiators designs work best with high flow fans only.
Look at the PA120.3 or MCR320 for low flow fans. Something like the BIX III works best with high flow fans.
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post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Melcar,

Thanks for the links and suggestions.

Good luck with the girlfriend thing...
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post #6 of 9
Holy ****, I thought I was old skool with my PIII 1 GHz, AGP ATI Radeon 7500, and 512MB of pc133 ram. I've been running it for 7 years, and the only fan is the stock CPU fan. Oldie but a goodie.
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post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gollie View Post
The benefits of water cooling are minimal. The costs, maintenance and risks associated with water cooling are numerous. Unless you are just a die hard modder, get a TRUE and save time and money.

A TRUE + Lapping supplies = $100. Water cooling custom kit $300+.

Depends. An air cooler, no matter how good it is, will do squat when faced with +90*F room temperature. WC allows you, if done properly, make a near silent system while still being able to overclock/overvolt. Lastly, while a WC system does require more time consuming maintenance, you usually only have to do it once or twice a year and still be able to enjoy near optimal performance from it; I do general maintenance every 6 months (blowing out dust, resitting the blocks, check for leaks, refill the loop, etc.), and full maintenace once a year (flush the loop, clean the blocks, etc.). It is costly, but if done right it can be very beneficial.
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post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Melcar,

I am not familiar with the term "t-line" (instead of a reservoir). Could you elaborate? Are you referring to an additional line that t's off the main loop and is capped at the end? If so, how does this provide any surge volume as the coolant expands and contracts?

Thanks, MCN
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post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterChief_Nuke View Post
Melcar,

I am not familiar with the term "t-line" (instead of a reservoir). Could you elaborate? Are you referring to an additional line that t's off the main loop and is capped at the end? If so, how does this provide any surge volume as the coolant expands and contracts?

Thanks, MCN
Quote:

T-Fitting: Many people use a T-fitting to create a 3rd line, which runs to the top of their case. This line is called the filling/bleeding line or T-line. You use the T-line to pour water into the system, and to allow the air that was originally in your system to escape. You want the T-line at the highest part of your system possible, because air will float to the highest point.


T-Line Plug: If you’re going to have a T-line for filling/bleeding, you’ll want something to plug it with after your done with it. There are many options. Put a cap on the threaded end of a hose barb, and plug the barb in. Plug it with a AA battery . I hear the lids off of certain markers work well too. An empty Arctic Silver 3 syringe fits well also. And anything else you can find that fits!
http://www.overclock.net/overclock.p...ling-guide.htm


There is really no performance loss with using a t-line over a reservoir. I prefer it because it conserves space (I have an internal loop) and because all of the reservoirs I have used have cracked. Also, most reservoirs I have used are somewhat noisy (water slushing noise is rather annoying on a quiet PC).
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