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Swiftech GTX Corrosion! - Page 2

post #11 of 27
This is probably a dum question(its 11pm so im tired as well lol) Are the problems with corrosion with the aluminum top partly from the chemicals in the stuff some put into the loop?...will it be less likely with just plain distilled water = me...just curious lol...
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonlazer View Post
This is probably a dum question(its 11pm so im tired as well lol) Are the problems with corrosion with the aluminum top partly from the chemicals in the stuff some put into the loop?...will it be less likely with just plain distilled water = me...just curious lol...

I think it's more a problem if you have two different metals in the loop, like aluminum and copper together.
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post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonlazer View Post
This is probably a dum question(its 11pm so im tired as well lol) Are the problems with corrosion with the aluminum top partly from the chemicals in the stuff some put into the loop?...will it be less likely with just plain distilled water = me...just curious lol...
No, the problem is galvanic corrosion which is disimilar metals.

Aluminim in the GTX top and copper in the bottom as well as likely to have brass or other metals with a different anodic index from aluminum.

The problem is lessened when you use a good anticorrosion addative like antifreeze/ethelyne glycol/hydrx etc but not eliminated. But regular distilled water does not reduce galvanic corrosion, it's better to have hydrx or another ethelyne glycol anticorrosion addative in there.

Eventually the distilled water in the loop becomes contaminated with the metals and galvanic corrosion occurs. The GTX top is coated to isolate the aluminum in the top, but unfortunately small cracks, pits or imperfections in the coating, and damage to the coating by barb threads can allow contact. After it starts, it works it's way out radially from the point of entry, in this case it appears the barb threads is where it started.

I will never run aluminum in a loop.
    
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post #14 of 27
Exactly Martin, I couldn't have said it better my self.

(I mean it, I really couldn't)
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post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
BTW, just curious what green fluid did you use and at what mixture ratio?
Honestly, as this was my first WC setup I ran some pre-mixed thermaltake stuff so it should have been fool proof, or at least that's what I thought.

Also martin you seem to have a good idea of what exactly is going on, I'm stuck here wondering If all the Aluminum that pulled away from the top and went to my copper bottom could continue to cause me problems. And, do you know of anything I could set my copper block into to pull off that aluminum? Like good ol CLR or something?
Edited by Crapalation - 5/12/08 at 10:49am
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post #16 of 27
I recommend using a toothbrush and a 1/10 ratio of distilled water with white vinegar, dipping the toothbrush in that and scrubbing the aluminum off. Make sure you rinse with distilled after so that there is no vinegar left.
post #17 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TnB= Gir View Post
I recommend using a toothbrush and a 1/10 ratio of distilled water with white vinegar, dipping the toothbrush in that and scrubbing the aluminum off. Make sure you rinse with distilled after so that there is no vinegar left.
Thank you!
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post #18 of 27
Thread Starter 
I just can't understand why Swiftech didn't go with a copper top from the start!!
Gah!
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post #19 of 27
What coolant were you using? I've been running with a Stealth (pretty much the same top as the GTX) since mid November and no signs of corrosion (and I check constantly) - But I've run with Hydrx exclusively.
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post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapalation View Post
Honestly, as this was my first WC setup I ran some pre-mixed thermaltake stuff so it should have been fool proof, or at least that's what I thought.

Also martin you seem to have a good idea of what exactly is going on, I'm stuck here wondering If all the Aluminum that pulled away from the top and went to my copper bottom could continue to cause me problems. And, do you know of anything I could set my copper block into to pull off that aluminum? Like good ol CLR or something?
We have corrosion engineers at work, but I really only know enough to understand the basics and know enough to stay away from aluminum. I wouldn't worry too much about the copper, it seems all of the damage occurs with the metals that have the higher index like the aluminum. A little blackening occurs with the copper, but I've never heard anyone complain of actual damage, probably just a slight coating of the other metal.

Don't get carried away with vinegar, it's corrosive too, but whenever I have a stubborn old copper block, I still like using ketchup myself (vingar based). I just use a nice soft plastic brush, scrub the block with the ketchup for a minute or so and then follow up with washing with hot soapy water. Vinegar is acidic so it eats away oxidation and gives an old block a new like appearance. Just don't go soaking in vingar for a long period of time....that WILL corrode the copper. A few minutes tops..
    
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