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Blacklight turned into UV Cathode - Page 2

post #11 of 25
Black wire on cathode -> 5V (red) on molex
Red wire on cathode -> 12V (yellow) on molex
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post #12 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosser13 View Post
Black wire on cathode -> 5V (red) on molex
Red wire on cathode -> 12V (yellow) on molex
Wouldn't that be 17v?
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post #13 of 25
Potential voltage difference is 7V : 12V - 5V.
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post #14 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosser13 View Post
Potential voltage difference is 7V : 12V - 5V.
Oh ok
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post #15 of 25
LOLOLOLOLOL.

sorry

the 5v should be sufficient, its a freaking light emitting chemical, not a light emitting co-processor, sheesh.

ive had a few of the same and used nicads wich are 1.2v rechargables.

sorry, i meant nickel metel hydrite, i just pulled the batteries out of the battery powered UV's i put under my sisters little tike's pink corvette so she has a pimp ride.
Edited by Xinoxide - 5/12/08 at 5:36pm
post #16 of 25
All you would need is a resistor to run it off the 12v but I am not sure of the value.
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post #17 of 25
why complicate things? it will work. it may not be as bright as it should, and the inverter may flicker a couple times before it turns on, but it will work.
Edited by Xinoxide - 5/12/08 at 6:00pm
post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
I'm gonna feed it 5v and see how it turns out.
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post #19 of 25
You can probably run it off the 5v rail. Most AA batteries either come at or wear down to a much lower voltage. The batteries in my calculator are rated at 1.3v and they still run things fine. I can say that you probably don't want to give it even a little extra voltage as light bulbs like to get hot even at normal voltage, and flurescents like to explode pretty violently. Being a flourescent, I'll bet it has some kind of transformer after the batteries, meaning any increase in supply voltage will only be multiplied several times at the transformer.
post #20 of 25
Just remember how damn hot black lights run. I wouldn't want one in my case.
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