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I attempted to lap my Tuniq Tower, now it's convex!

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I have used about 4 sheets of 220 grit paper and this thing is STILL convex. Now I am sliding the heatsink along the sandpaper from the base, using a BIC pen so I don't put uneven pressure on it which caused it to become concave in the first place and it's taking forever. I'm about to go to 60 grit in a minute I'm becoming very impatient.

There is about half a millimeter difference. I am afraif to put pressure on the top of the heatsink so I set a cd spindle on top and slide it from the bottom now but the thing is so top-heavy that it almost topples over. Then I have to sand the sides so it won't dig into the paper and fall over.
Edited by aweir - 5/12/08 at 9:56am
post #2 of 12
The way I just finished my TRUE was to get a sheet of glass. I used glass cutting board. Used some really sticky tape and taped the paper to the board. Then a little water and a lot of time.
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
How much sandpaper did you use and did you do the "razor blade test"? I can still see light coming through the gap even though the heatsink is no longer convex. Now it just appears wavy in certain spots which I find to be almost impossible because I am sanding it on a flat glass surface.
Edited by aweir - 5/12/08 at 11:04am
post #4 of 12
always take your time when lapping. dont rush into it and get 60 grit sandpaper. that will make it worse.
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post #5 of 12
I went from 220 up to 1500 in this order, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500. I used about 3-4 sheets per grit. I had a small plastic cup that I filled with water and about 3 drops of Dawn soap. Then cut the paper into long strips, taped them to the board. Spread the water around then started. 20 strokes turn, 20 strokes turn, and so on. About 6 hours later I was satisified I was not going to get it any better. As for testing it, I did not use the razor blade test. What I did was a small metal protractor to test it out.

Like has been stated above take our time and go slow. The base will want to jump and virbrate when you move it. I found that the lower you get your fingers on the heatsink the better. By the time I got to the 1500 the base was litterly gliding on the paper with almost no effort.
post #6 of 12
that is the most important thing is to take time. also make sure to hold the bottom of your tuniq tower at the base. when you lap it make sure you're getting it to "flow" and there are no stutters in your lapping.

hope you figure things out! good luck
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post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
$50 worth of sandpaper am I'm still back to the 220 grit. I said WTH and picked up some 150 grit too. The quicker I can get this thing flat the quicker I can move up to higher grits.

Mmmmmm......grits....
post #8 of 12
I think you started at too fine a grit.

I started with 80 and went to finer grint from there - no problems.

Maybe you could just grab a a sheet of 80 or 60 if its real bad and then move right to the 220 from there.
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post #9 of 12
took me like 5 differt lappys to get my tuniq just right and its still not perfect but im getting some great temps so im not gonna mess with it any more 3750 1.47-1.50vcore and i dont pass 59c usualy in orthos.
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post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheatton View Post
I went from 220 up to 1500 in this order, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500. I used about 3-4 sheets per grit. I had a small plastic cup that I filled with water and about 3 drops of Dawn soap. Then cut the paper into long strips, taped them to the board. Spread the water around then started. 20 strokes turn, 20 strokes turn, and so on. About 6 hours later I was satisified I was not going to get it any better. As for testing it, I did not use the razor blade test. What I did was a small metal protractor to test it out.
Umm, a board? you should be using glass under the sandpaper. I used a mirror as my base because its about as flat as you can get.
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