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Is it time to buy a new PSU? - Page 2

post #11 of 13
Oh ok, I felt bad thinking you would only use it once. When you get it let us know your idle and load voltages to get this straightened out.
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i7 monsta
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post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 
Well after starting this thread and moving some cables the problem went away so I never went and got a multimeter. Now its happening again so I picked one up today and forgot to think about it needing a battery. Going to fix that tomorrow or this evening and finally see what's going on.

Some questions: I take it I just put the black end on the black wire and put the red on the red wire and the yellow? Also on this MM it has DCV 500, 200, 20, 2. It also has DCA 200, 20, 2. Where do I set it? I am guessing 20V since I am measuring volts? Last question: do I need to power off before connecting the red and black to the wires in the 4pin or can I leave it on and just go black to black first then red to the red or yellow wire?

My experience in this department goes about as far as using a test light in a 74 Beetle to see what is drawing power when the switch is off.
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post #13 of 13
Yup to test the 5V and 12V rails, find an empty molex plug while the computer is on. Set the multimeter to DCV 20 and make sure the test leads are in the correct holes on the multimeter for measuring DC volts. The black test lead goes on either of the black ground wires in the molex plug and the red test lead goes on yellow wire to test the 12V and the red wire to test the 5V. You should do it while your computer is idling and then when it is loaded up with something that you normally run like a game or something stressful. The 12V and 5V rails need to be within +/- 5% to be considered within specs. So 11.4-12.6V for the 12V and 4.75-5.25V for the 5V rail. Here's a good walkthrough: http://jongerow.com/BFGPower/troubleshooting.html
i7 monsta
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i7 monsta
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