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Just installed Lapped TRUE 120...temps not good? - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Blair09,

Without seeing the rest of your specs I have to say thats too high. My AMD X2 4800 is sitting at 33C with only about 800rpms - not sure about CFMs.

A number of great lapping guides are out there. Maybe you should several and compare your process against what they reccomend.

Bottom line: You may have one or MORE of the following three problems.
1. Poor Lap
2. TIM application problem
3. Remount issue

Take your time and have fun.
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post #12 of 15

I had the same problem. The TRUE isn't truely flat, and the intel IHS is even worse, so it's not making contact with the IHS very well.

You will need to Lap your TRUE, and most importantly your cpu IHS.

I now idle at 28 deg on 2 cores, and 30 deg on 2 cores... load between 46-50 on each core at 3.4Ghz, 1.32v.

before I lapped them I was idleing 40';s and loads in the 70s.

It really isnt very difficult to do there are plenty of lap guides, and specifically on lapping your true you can watch this video. You will find lapping your CPU is much easier than the heatsink because its so much easier to hold and manipulate. It took approximately 1 hour to lap the cpu, and around 3 hours to lap the TRUE.

Don't forget to cover the contact area on the back of the cpu with masking tape, so you don't get copper particles and stuff on them. I personally like to tape the sandpaper to the glass as well, you can buy a large sheet of glass 12"x 16" from like LOWES for $3.00, and you can get a few sheets of each grit for $3 per grit, so around $20 total cost to do everything.


Edited by nettwerk - 5/17/08 at 12:11am
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post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
OK. My only question is if i started lapping my TRUE already, i spent like 4 hours on it but i didnt do the low grit enough...can i start over and relap starting at 320 or 200 or whatever?
post #14 of 15
I started at 400 grit, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500

You don't have to start at 200 grit, it just speeds up the process initially if it isn't even close to being flat.

using a higher grit will just take you MUCH more time to get it initially flat.


As for re-sanding it. I don't see any reason you couldn't do so, but you probably won't need to it should already be fairly flat if you've worn off all the nickel plated coating and all that is showing on the bass is copper.
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post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by blair09 View Post
well this was my first time seating it, so im sure i prolly messed it up. is that top movable brace thing supposed to touch my mobo? Becuase it didnt make it all the way down before i couldnt screw anymore. My lap job was pretty good, not perfect, but i got a mirrow finish on 90% of it, rest still had some copper with scratches on it.
No, it shouldnt touch your mobo. It should be about half a centimetre away from it.

It means that the seat isnt tight enough.
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