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Radiator Shrowds - Need some info.

post #1 of 9
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Question for all the hardcore WC'ers out there!

I'm after some more information on rad shrowds, performance differences, ideal sizes and also pics of them if possible.

Cheers fellas!
    
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post #2 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus000 View Post
Question for all the hardcore WC'ers out there!

I'm after some more information on rad shrowds, performance differences, ideal sizes and also pics of them if possible.

Cheers fellas!
Check out this thread, very useful http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...t-shrouds.html. The best size is about 1.5" thick (the size of a 120x38mm fan). You can buy them if your Rad's company makes pre-made ones or you can just make them out of 120x38mm fans as I did here:

post #3 of 9
I used to make them out of aluminum channel, kind of a pain, but they work real well and are sturdy...I just miter the corners and then either bolt L's inside of each corner,or just use Goop to hold them in place...Most of the time i would use all-thread rods like studs, going all the way from the rad mounts on through the shroud and fans...I would use a nut on the rod and tighten the shroud tightly to the rad on the inside of the channel, real sturdy like that, makes it a snap to change out fans to....I either use clear silicone or cheap silicone fan vibration things to seal it all up..

On my 480 I just use long M4 bolts because i couldn't find any cheap brass thumb-nuts for it....

Any more i just use gutted 120x38mm fans to get what i've always heard is the optimal shroud depth of 1.5"...Even a 120x25mm fan will give you a .98" shroud, any is better then none...Its a whole lot easier and looks good to I think...


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post #4 of 9
i gutted out the lain li case fans that came with my case and i use those for shrouds for my ultra kaze 2000's
Edited by whe3ls - 5/17/08 at 8:54pm
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post #5 of 9
The degree of effectiveness depends on the size of fan, and the depth of the shroud. With 38mm fans you definitely need a big shroud, since the big motor creates an awful lot of dead space, but with a smaller 25mm fan you could get away with no shroud at all. At least, expect a 1-2*C drop from your normal temps. when using a shroud. Fan frames make good shrouds.
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post #6 of 9
Here are a couple sloppy ones of when I made mine.
I have since been told that my fans are too high and that the optimal distance between the fans and rad is 1.5"
I used sheet metal and luckily it (kind of) matched my case.
I hope this helped.
Cheers


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post #7 of 9
I am not a fan of using a fan case for the shroud; it frees up the area of the hub but not the frame itself.

It is simpler. For a single stage fan setup, you can use plastic spacers ($10 for a bag of 50 from McMaster-Carr) and long screws. Wrap duct tape or other air tight tape around the outside. Cheap, easy, and effective.

Remember, we are talking very low pressure differentials here.
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post #8 of 9
here's one i made out of some alum. sheet ~1.5inches deep.


and you can barely see the acrylic ones i put together for my other heatercore in this pic. ~3cm deep, one on either side of the heatercore.


edit-------------
the larger versions are in my gallery but they're still only 1024x768 shots i believe.
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post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Cheers fellas so 1.5" / 38mm is what I should be aiming for then.

Shall report back tonight / tomorrow and show you what i've come up with!

Rep to all!
    
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