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How to remove scratches from acrylic?

post #1 of 9
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Well as you know the see through part of my case is like an Acrylic "not sure how to spell it" It has scratches and what now on it.. How would I go about getting rid of them?
post #2 of 9
only fix is wet sand with like 2000 grit sandpaper, and a whole lot of time, large fan out motions and dont rub too hard, this may cause small hazing or weird reflections though.
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post #3 of 9
There's some other compounds that can fill in the scratches with "fake" acrylic.
    
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post #4 of 9
3M makes an automotive compound that is superb for polishing scratches in almost any hard plastic even though its designed for enamel and urethane paints.
A member took my advise and even repaired the finish to his LCD monitor with it that was damaged by an ammonia based cleaner

Finesse it II works wonders on automotive paints and plexi, lexan (AKA: polycarbonate plastic) and like I said, almost any plastic!
I personally have used it to finish lexan custom formed automotive glass for custom cars and hot rods and on may variable plastics with great results.
Other examples of what plastics it works on: Automotive head lamp housings, tail lamps, emblems, instrument clusters. BTW, tht goes for older classics and modern vehicles too

Dependant on the product, being some plastics have a film coating which once damaged would have to be removed by sanding the entire surface with a very fine grit wet/dry sand paper... preferably 1000-2000 grit and perhaps even 3000g but I've found it unnecessary to go that fine. This is not likely the case with your case.

To sand the surface, much like our lapping method, mix some dish soap like you would to wash dishes, a small squirt of soap per a bucket of water. Use a sanding pad to attain a flat surface when sanding because just using your hand may cause surface imperfections.
Dependent on the depth of the scratch...
1. Very Deep Scratch: For a scratch you can obviously feel with your finger nail, start with 800 or 1000 grit
2. Light scratch: Barely detectable with fingernail: Start with at least 1000 grit.
3. Visual scratch but unfelt: Try polishing first, if its still present start with at least 1500 grit.

Mind you, I polish with an variable speed polisher and do heed the speed recommendations! Finesse it II don't like or need high speeds!
So even if you do not have a motorized polisher, you can attain a great finish with some good old fashioned hand rubbing.
Use only a very soft cloth like terry cloth.

Hope that helps
Edited by The Duke - 5/18/08 at 5:44am
    
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post #5 of 9
http://www.xoxide.com/noscre.html

i've seen this.
not so sure how well it works though.
post #6 of 9
Sy used a buffer wheel
post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duke View Post
3M makes an automotive compound that is superb for polishing scratches in almost any hard plastic even though its designed for enamel and urethane paints.
A member took my advise and even repaired the finish to his LCD monitor with it that was damaged by an ammonia based cleaner

Finesse it II works wonders on automotive paints and plexi, lexan (AKA: polycarbonate plastic) and like I said, almost any plastic!
I personally have used it to finish lexan custom formed automotive glass for custom cars and hot rods and on may variable plastics with great results.
Other examples of what plastics it works on: Automotive head lamp housings, tail lamps, emblems, instrument clusters. BTW, tht goes for older classics and modern vehicles too

Dependant on the product, being some plastics have a film coating which once damaged would have to be removed by sanding the entire surface with a very fine grit wet/dry sand paper... preferably 1000-2000 grit and perhaps even 3000g but I've found it unnecessary to go that fine. This is not likely the case with your case.

To sand the surface, much like our lapping method, mix some dish soap like you would to wash dishes, a small squirt of soap per a bucket of water. Use a sanding pad to attain a flat surface when sanding because just using your hand may cause surface imperfections.
Dependent on the depth of the scratch...
1. Very Deep Scratch: For a scratch you can obviously feel with your finger nail, start with 800 or 1000 grit
2. Light scratch: Barely detectable with fingernail: Start with at least 1000 grit.
3. Visual scratch but unfelt: Try polishing first, if its still present start with at least 1500 grit.

Mind you, I polish with an variable speed polisher and do heed the speed recommendations! Finesse it II don't like or need high speeds!
So even if you do not have a motorized polisher, you can attain a great finish with some good old fashioned hand rubbing.
Use only a very soft cloth like terry cloth.

Hope that helps
i would give u rep if it would let me great info
   
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post #8 of 9
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post #9 of 9
I would use Plexus it was developed for the aviation industry to be used on windshields. Sanding with high grits is OK but you end up removing material and distorting the image seen through the acrylic. I prefer heating the scratched surface with a hair dryer or heat gun first, allowing the acrylic to flow and minimize the depth of the scratch. Be careful move the heat around the acrylic will blister if you apply too much heat. It being your first time find some scrap acrylic scratch it and practice. I would actually try and blister the scrap piece just so you know what can happen.

Next, grab your toothpaste and a little water to thin it out. Toothpaste has an extremely fine grit in it to polish teeth and works well on acrylic. Mix right on the scratch rub it with your finger in a circular motion in both directions. I would do this for about 5 min per inch of scratch. Spray the residue off. Never USE PAPER TOWELS ON ACRYLIC.

The scratch will still be there more often that not but thats what the Plexus is for it should fill it in and make it go bye bye. I haven't tried the Finesse product that Duke mentioned but i probably does the same thing I'll have to try it out some time.

If you think this too much Dukes instructions are very good as well.
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