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Custom Waterblock Design Help Needed

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
OK, first off - I'm being serious about this, and as long as I can get the design done it will be made

The plan is to make 2 blocks - one for my G33 Northbridge, and one for my Southbridge

[AF] have some very handy measurements up for the block base and the mounting holes, man those guys are good - if this doesn't work I'll probably end up buying their blocks

Plans are:

Copper base with Acrylic top
2 barbs (obviously)
2 mounting holes

Now, I'm pretty unsure where to go from here. It's only a chipset, so a "wave" style design should be OK I think? I'm thinking 3 waves if I can fit them in.

I'll need an O-ring to go in the groove around the outside of the block - I think I know of someone who will make a couple for me if I ask nicely. There will a bolt in each corner to secure the top to the copper - can I tap straight into the copper? Thinking about 8mm acrylic for the tops?

As for tools, I'll be able to have it made up on a CNC machine - a company over here called ChilledPC are cutting my acrylic for me and the guy seems up for letting me do a couple of blocks at the same time. He's also looking into sourcing copper anyway so it should be cheaper than buying a couple of small pieces I've got a tap here for the barbs, so that's not a problem.
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post #2 of 16
Thread Starter 
First design...





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post #3 of 16
not bad, but if i were you, i'd add some height to the flow channel (in the plexi part, not the waves) to decrease restriction. in a chipset block it doesnt really matter if waterbypasses the wave channels.
post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 
Reason I'm trying to force it through the waves is so that I can see the waves and the coolant - I don't want them submerged
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post #5 of 16
Get a real cad program like solidworks or something google sketch up is fine for small things but when you try to model huge things it dies...

Also i love the look of those blocks! looks sweet
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post #6 of 16
heh. i dont understand sketchup at all XD
too used to 3ds max.
post #7 of 16
Use Delrin instead of Plexi.

Those fins are WAY too wide.

The distance from IHS to fins needs to be reduced.
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post #8 of 16
I am also building my own waterblock...I went with a meat tenderizer hammer style channel...like fins on a small HS. I have cut the fins off of an old HS and im using a 2" copper cap and 1/2" intake/output barbs.

how close do you think the intake has to be to the fins?
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post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Yay, an expert! - Thanks Duckie

I realise Plexi has cracking issues, but I'd like a see through block. Isn't 4mm at the barbs thick enough?

The fins are 2mm wide each - should I reduce them to 1mm?

And the block is 4mm thick, how much do I have to play with?

Sorry for all the questions.
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post #10 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK View Post
I am also building my own waterblock...I went with a meat tenderizer hammer style channel...like fins on a small HS. I have cut the fins off of an old HS and im using a 2" copper cap and 1/2" intake/output barbs.

how close do you think the intake has to be to the fins?
Check out the Swiftech Apogee GT. This sounds like what you want to achieve.

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