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Custom Waterblock Design Help Needed - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosser13 View Post
Yay, an expert! - Thanks Duckie

I realise Plexi has cracking issues, but I'd like a see through block. Isn't 4mm at the barbs thick enough?

The fins are 2mm wide each - should I reduce them to 1mm?

And the block is 4mm thick, how much do I have to play with?

Sorry for all the questions.
The thinner the fins... The better.

The fins look like they are on a raised area... is there any reason for this? This is just increasing the distance the heat has to travel and reducing efficency.

I would increase the number fins and coverage. Just because the two cores are located directl below the fins, it doesn't mean the IHS won't spread some of the heat outside that area.

I would highly recommend you checking out the design of the XSPC Edge. It shares a lot of concepts you can use:
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/XSPC...U-Preview.html
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post #12 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
The thinner the fins... The better.

The fins look like they are on a raised area... is there any reason for this? This is just increasing the distance the heat has to travel and reducing efficency.

I would increase the number fins and coverage. Just because the two cores are located directl below the fins, it doesn't mean the IHS won't spread some of the heat outside that area.

I would highly recommend you checking out the design of the XSPC Edge. It shares a lot of concepts you can use:
http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/XSPC...U-Preview.html
Ducky!

It's a NB waterblock

The whole base is 4mm with the fins protruding 4mm up, that seemed the easiest way to do it.

Trying to keep restriction relatively low as there will be a SB block too.
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post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosser13 View Post
Ducky!

It's a NB waterblock

The whole base is 4mm with the fins protruding 4mm up, that seemed the easiest way to do it.

Trying to keep restriction relatively low as there will be a SB block too.
Identical rules apply.

Have you done cross section area calculations? You need to make sure there is at LEAST .196in^2 (area of 1/2" tubing cross-section). However, I would aim for like .3in^2 to reduce restriction.


Since you want one for your NB and SB... why not think about a design that has an outlet parallel to the motherboard? The SB inlet would also be parallel to the motherboard. It would make tubing management nicer.
Edited by DuckieHo - 5/19/08 at 1:23pm
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post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info Ducky

I'm going to do a quick redesign as I've had a new idea which should simplify things...

Surely I'd need a 1.5cm thick acrylic top to be able to design to have a parallel port. Isn't that a bit *too* huge?

OK, be back with more ideas soon.
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post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosser13 View Post
Thanks for the info Ducky

I'm going to do a quick redesign as I've had a new idea which should simplify things...

Surely I'd need a 1.5cm thick acrylic top to be able to design to have a parallel port. Isn't that a bit *too* huge?

OK, be back with more ideas soon.
If you can intergrate the outlet into the copper block, it would be even cooler! Maybe a L-shaped copper block. The acrylic would fill the open area of the L. Just a thought to be different...
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post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 




Not perfect as to whats in my head, as Sketchup rounds to 1mm =/

5 x 2mm waves, in a sunken "trough" - so there's 3mm from there to the chipset.

Waves need to be slightly shorter in order to fit under the acrylic - still a 4mm hole milled out but it is now 10mm thick to allow for 5mm threads of barbs.

O-ring around the outside.

Looking better?
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