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Spray Paint or possibly using an Air Brush as a mini spray gun for case painting? - Page 2

post #11 of 52
Spray paint or Air brush on a pc case is not overkill... However you will need some art sense to put your ideas in to your most design form. There is alot of tip of how to get a nice paint job done. just google it.

Check out what i did to my antec900 (it is in my sig). I was going to post up some tips of airbrush but i am very busy atm. Sometime it is all about creative, start with a peice of wood or anything flat first and just play around with one color at first, try getting a mirror finish is best since everything look nice when they have a mirror finishing.

If you gona do this, expect to spend alot of time learning step by step. Good luck and welcome to Airbrush Art.
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post #12 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus000 View Post
Whats your reason for saying he should remove the anodising first?
I'm not sure on the anodising myself, but the reason for the oven cleaner (or similar cleaner) is to clean all grease and oil from the surface. I'm guessing the annodising might be non-conductive to a good contact by the primer/paint.
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post #13 of 52
Airbrushing is quite nice for case painting .... with a little practice and an initial investment, you could have some very nice case MOD's. I have been doing it for awhile now. I love it ! The limits of Airbrushing are infinite ! you can use it for just about anything. Halloween face painting, makeup, paintings, ect .....

With your imagination and the use of some template or stencils, you can create some really nice projects ..... and like myself, I dont have any artistic abilities ....

Try this Site Here ...
here are some vids from this site ...... have some cool case painting vid's in there. Site

I also have a couple of NIB Iwata Airbrushes that I will be selling ....
These modles found here

Iwata HP-BCS

Iwata HP-CS
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post #14 of 52
Thread Starter 
thanks for the info everyone. I am researching.

There's one thing I want to clarify tho...
At the moment I am only looking to do case painting (coverage) not any detail artwork that would require better airbrushes, but it would be nice to have the option for down the road. So since that is the case, I have been looking at airbrushes that could encompass the range of spray from say "hairline" to a few inches, of which there are some. Then of course there are ones that deal with only the tiny scales (for super detail art) all the way to Spray Guns that can jet 10 and 12 inch patterns etc. I am not looking for those either. Since I have an high volume tool compressor I could go to home depot right now and get a spray gun but I dont have the facilty or the need for that large of a scale - so I am looking at low to mid size air brushes as a possibly alternative to spray paints. Main reason being with spray paint you are limited to the color in the can, with air brushes and spray guns your options are much broader. Sorry for the blab, I just wanted to make my situation clear so that people trying to help could offer info and advice within the context of my actual question/dilemma. But I thank everyone who responded

Infektion - great links -thanks +rep

my research continues. If anyone is using an air brush to do coverage painting for pc cases I'd love to hear about your details - thanks
Edited by CattleRustler - 5/21/08 at 3:45pm
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post #15 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by repo_man View Post
I'm not sure on the anodising myself, but the reason for the oven cleaner (or similar cleaner) is to clean all grease and oil from the surface. I'm guessing the annodising might be non-conductive to a good contact by the primer/paint.
Ah ok, I can understand wanting to de-grease the surface but you don't need to remove the anodising.

When a part is anodised correctly it shouldn't be electrically conductive afterwards (try stickin a multimeter onto a side panel )
Now as you probs already know since you mentioned you've worked with spray guns before, powder coating uses electical currents in order to work.

When I first made enquiries about coating cases one of the first questions I asked was does it make any difference to them (coaters) if the part has already been anodised and they said none what so ever.
They de-grease all the parts for me before hand in a machine that looks like a mini car wash, parts get put on a rack and de-greaser fired all over them and then come out the other side covered in gunk (the degreasing material).

Parts then get tried off and put onto the spraying wall for powder coating and obviously baked afterwards.

In short, I really don't think it's necessary to strip the ano. off, even when powder coating which relies upon passing a current through the item itself.

*hopes im not wrong about any of that lol*

PS: I realise the OP isn't talking about coating but I thought it would be a good example to use.
    
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post #16 of 52
Thread Starter 
the OP's head is spinning and may just settle on spray paint



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post #17 of 52
lol my apologies

Was just saying that you shouldn't need to strip the anodising off (saving you work )
    
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post #18 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus000 View Post
Ah ok, I can understand wanting to de-grease the surface but you don't need to remove the anodising.

When a part is anodised correctly it shouldn't be electrically conductive afterwards (try stickin a multimeter onto a side panel )
Now as you probs already know since you mentioned you've worked with spray guns before, powder coating uses electical currents in order to work.

When I first made enquiries about coating cases one of the first questions I asked was does it make any difference to them (coaters) if the part has already been anodised and they said none what so ever.
They de-grease all the parts for me before hand in a machine that looks like a mini car wash, parts get put on a rack and de-greaser fired all over them and then come out the other side covered in gunk (the degreasing material).

Parts then get tried off and put onto the spraying wall for powder coating and obviously baked afterwards.

In short, I really don't think it's necessary to strip the ano. off, even when powder coating which relies upon passing a current through the item itself.

*hopes im not wrong about any of that lol*

PS: I realise the OP isn't talking about coating but I thought it would be a good example to use.
Yea I know that on power coating (good info/post btw) but I was unsure on anodizing. I just googled it and found this bit of info
Quote:
Anodizing, or anodising, is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts. Anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than bare metal.
Source

I found that interesting. I was thinking (for some stupid reason) anodizing was a type of clearcoat on the metal. While there are such coats, anodizing is not it,lol. A good sanding with 4-600 grit on some anodizing would make the paint stick just as well as anything else.

The nemesis of a good paintjob is grease and lack of sanding. The scratches made while sanding give the paint something to grasp onto, while grease not only prevents good adhesion it will also make the paint "fisheye" ( or bubble around the grease).

Just my useful input as well,lol.
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post #19 of 52
Professional paint guns and my ... professionally speaking.

Back in the day of siphon guns, some of the finest custom graphics were sprayed with the infamous Binks Model 18 which can also blows out a fine 7-8'' of beauty full metallic paint with a siphon set up and up to over 2 feet of the same with a pressure pot.

Any good gravity feed gun can be set to spray very small patterns by reducing the pattern, paint volume and air pressure. You may also want to increase the reducer percentage. If you do exceed the recommended percentage of reducer allow additional time for the solvents to escape, or as we say, extend the flash time.
You will not only have a fine quality finish, but also access to the most vibrant automotive paints on the planet
    
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post #20 of 52
Ah ha good stuff, I wasn't aware that it improves the adhesion though! Every day is a school day!

Off topic but i've actually been doing quite a bit of research into different anodising methods and found some pretty awesome stuff!
I'm gonna go down to my anodisers and "play" about doing some splash / tattoo and fade ano. runs.
I use the term "play" lightly... knowing me i'll end up falling into a vat of acid or somthing!!!

EDIT: This post was in response to Repo_man, not you Duke!
    
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