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Spray Paint or possibly using an Air Brush as a mini spray gun for case painting? - Page 3

post #21 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duke View Post
Professional paint guns and my ... professionally speaking.

Back in the day of siphon guns, some of the finest custom graphics were sprayed with the infamous Binks Model 18 which can also blows out a fine 7-8'' of beauty full metallic paint with a siphon set up and up to over 2 feet of the same with a pressure pot.

Any good gravity feed gun can be set to spray very small patterns by reducing the pattern, paint volume and air pressure. You may also want to increase the reducer percentage. If you do exceed the recommended percentage of reducer allow additional time for the solvents to escape, or as we say, extend the flash time.
You will not only have a fine quality finish, but also access to the most vibrant automotive paints on the planet
Duke they call them HVLP guns high volume low pressure,i have 2 and a small touch up spair gun.you transfer 70% of the paint instead of 45% or so
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post #22 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus000 View Post
Ah ha good stuff, I wasn't aware that it improves the adhesion though! Every day is a school day!

Off topic but i've actually been doing quite a bit of research into different anodising methods and found some pretty awesome stuff!
I'm gonna go down to my anodisers and "play" about doing some splash / tattoo and fade ano. runs.
I use the term "play" lightly... knowing me i'll end up falling into a vat of acid or somthing!!!

EDIT: This post was in response to Repo_man, not you Duke!
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post #23 of 52
OP: Im sorry we kind of ran off topic in here. BUT there is some good info on painting in these pages!
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post #24 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipjos View Post
Duke they call them HVLP guns high volume low pressure,i have 2 and a small touch up spair gun.you transfer 70% of the paint instead of 45% or so
I'm aware or HVLP, I use them daily. I chose the generic descriptive to separate the two common designs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by repo_man View Post
OP: Im sorry we kind of ran off topic in here. BUT there is some good info on painting in these pages!
Here is one that will amaze you, a $60 Ingersol Rand HVLP matched the finish and quality of a $600 Sata ... I learned that all by accident as we two timed a show car spraying PPG DBC/CC Marina Blue on a 67 Camaro trophy winner at the Detroit AutoRama ... yours truly used the IR and the other painter got the Sata!
Edited by The Duke - 5/21/08 at 5:40pm
    
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post #25 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duke View Post
I'm aware or HVLP, I use them daily. I chose the generic descriptive to separate the two common designs.
your the man,wasnt sure but others mite not of heard of them,wasnt trying to degrade your intelligence.
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post #26 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipjos View Post
your the man,wasnt sure but others mite not of heard of them,wasnt trying to degrade your intelligence.
No offense taken
    
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post #27 of 52
Thread Starter 
this is great and all, but could we stay on my topic please.


thanks The Duke, any specific recommendations on air brushes and automotive paints that I could use (brands/models). Also, can i prime with an air brush, or should I use something like Plastikote spray primer for plastic and metal, then just paint with an air brush? there's too many options

x.x
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post #28 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by CattleRustler View Post
this is great and all, but could we stay on my topic please.


thanks The Duke, any specific recommendations on air brushes and automotive paints that I could use (brands/models). Also, can i prime with an air brush, or should I use something like Plastikote spray primer for plastic and metal, then just paint with an air brush? there's too many options

x.x
primer is heavier than paint,mite have trouble with an air brush,use a quality sandable primer from a can and if you wish to air brush the paint,acrylic enamel or lacquer?
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post #29 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by CattleRustler View Post
this is great and all, but could we stay on my topic please.


thanks The Duke, any specific recommendations on air brushes and automotive paints that I could use (brands/models). Also, can i prime with an air brush, or should I use something like Plastikote spray primer for plastic and metal, then just paint with an air brush? there's too many options

x.x

Dupli-color high build. Some of the best aerosol primer I've ever used. It can be put on in multiple coats and is a high build. Not watery or thin like some I've used. Sands fairly easy as well. You can pick it up at most car part houses (Autozone, O'Reilly's etc)
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post #30 of 52
Options...
A zinc chromate primer provides excellent adhesion to for both ferrous and non ferrous metals... its available in both spray bombs or in bulk.
Apply a conventional primer over that and sand lightly with 800g before top coating the primer.
Always tack rag to remove any residual dust after sanding.

You may also tack between coats of color but...
1. Be sure it dry enough
2. Use very light pleasure so not to disturb the paint/metallic

An option for priming where as little or no sanding is a "primer/sealer" which goes on very thin... spray medium/light coat(s) usually 1 or 2 dependent on manufactures specs.

With a high end finish, I personally prefer to spray 1 medium coat of base coat, allow to dry a few hours or bake for 40 minutes and wet sand lightly with 800g. That way any possible contamination is locked down by the base coat and any particles (some call them zibs) that contaminate the surface are removed. Clean and re-prep, tack of and spray, spray, spray

The same method works for single stage paint, you just have to wait a lot longer for the paint to dry properly to sand it.

REPO, that Duplicolor has to be the best primer in a spray bomb... sprays well and sands nicely
Edited by The Duke - 5/21/08 at 6:10pm
    
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