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Worklog:CM690 Internal 320 ~ Update

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
My pump, radiator, and reservoir were the first parts to arrive, so over the weekend I began my build. I liked the all black look that others had done so there first thing I did was mod and paint my case.





I made a template on a piece of paper and cut away the sheet metal on the top of the case to allow better airflow for the radiator.


Using the long mounting screws I attached the fans and radiator to the case. I know some people had problems with the screws going into the water channels, but with standard 25mm fans there is probably 3-4mm of space between the end of the screw and the radiator.



I flattened the floppy adapter that came with the case and used it as a mounting point for my pump.


Both the pump and reservoir will occupy all but the lowest bay. I still have room to add a petra top to the mcp350.


It doesn’t look as clean as I would have liked, but I used mesh from a staples trash can to replace the perforated metal that came with the case. In order to fit the radiator internally I had to ditch the usb connections on the top of the case. I didn’t want to see the left over holes, so I replaced the whole top section. In the future I may bite the bullet and buy a real sheet of perf. metal, but for now this will do. It hides the fans from view, and give great airflow.




That’s all I have for now. The specs will be:
CPU block - D-tek Fuzion v2
Radiator - MCR320
Pump – MCP350
Res – DD Bay res
Fans – Yate Loon Med Speed

In the future I will probably add a petra top, MCR220, and a MCW60, but this will do for now. I’ll post updates either tonight or tomorrow.
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post #2 of 14
Thread Starter 
Update!

Well I started leak testing on Tuesday, but I ran into a problem. I was using ek barbs on the MCR320 and no matter what I did one of the barbs leaked very slowly. The other took an enormous amount of tightening to seal. I stuck plumbers tape on the leaky barb and somehow managed to separate the threads from the barb as it broke in two. I called Petra’s and Alex helped me get the threads out of the res. Ongo sent out a set of D-tek barbs for free and I received them today, two days later!




So here is what I have so far. It has been running for about three hours without a drop of water leaking. There was a slow pool at the threads between a Lowe’s brass barb and the res, but the d-tek barbs solved that problem. I’ll let it run until tomorrow morning. I’ll trim the tubes to the right lengths and add the nuke and pentosin. Tomorrow night it should be going on my rig as long as there are no leaks!




Edited by lilmanmgf - 5/29/08 at 8:27pm
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post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
UPDATE!
Well here it is. I'll clean it up later, but its late and I'm tired.




Edited by lilmanmgf - 5/30/08 at 10:55pm
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post #4 of 14
cool nice paint job, can't wait to see the rest!
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post #5 of 14
Yep. Nice job!
I love those cases. Best buy I've made in awhile. (I got mine for $25)
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post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
bumpity for update
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post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Well it was a tight fit but everything went together well. I am still having a little leaking from my res, but it has seemed to slow down. I might try some silicone and see what happens. I guess I will change the res in the future. Highlighters work great in blue too, thanks for the tip dragon!











Edited by lilmanmgf - 5/31/08 at 8:21pm
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post #8 of 14
If you had a MCR220 do you think the two fans would fit under the metal mesh? ie without having to mod the top? Nice set up btw...
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post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
You would need to modify the top slightly to allow for standard 120s. You wouldn't need new mesh though. I just added a chipset cooler to my nb. Full load on the cpu is now 54c. I still think this is high.


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post #10 of 14
Looks good, I've missed this one...Thanks for all the pic's...

If you want to try and lower your temp's do some CPU block re-mounts, I usually do 4 or 5 times at least with a new block, then work it back down to my lowest temp, I let it go for a week or so and settle in between block re-mounts..I've seen all the way from almost no gain to 2-4C gain..If you get a mount that is really a lot cooler then your others you might just want to leave it there, sometimes its hard to get a perfect mount back...

Make sure all the air is out of your rad first, thats one thing that will hurt your temp's...With it hard mounted to the inside top like that it will be a little harder to do, just rock your box front to back and side to side and see if you can work anymore air out of it, there might not be any in it, but if i don't like my temp's thats the first thing i would check myself....I always leave my rad loose so I can shake and slap it around a little to get all the air out...
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